thomas h.

That ridickyouless these are japanese quads rice is cheap but sushi is like having 7 boost bottles. Speaking of boost bottles that where I keep my cheif boy R dee bros !

What was I thinking lol

Maybe the banshee repair and mods is a good q& a spot

Stock carb will flow good for a dune bike and the have better bottom end power. If HJR is going to help you out with the motor I would follow his advise. He knows the dyno numbers better that most.

I think the labor to take it a part and put together was A flat 300$ I even asked him to do other stuff after the first quote and he said that it was still a flat 300$ which I would gladly pay to have done so I don't mess it up and my weekend @ glamis. If your local just call him and stop by his shop

They are pointing out that shock cover rub on the springs removing the powder coat. I think protecting the rod is important but really don't know if they really protect from on coming dirt. Or that on coming dirt really cause pitting in the rod and wearing seals faster.

Well if it's a duner The port is 250 - 300 + 75$ case port and better bottom gasket( cub style ) Then if you want new pistons ( need )pancake bearing mill head shift star end cut tranny billet impeller 4 mill crank and stuff he will have to price it out. Then their is labor and gaskets He did mine and I asked for every thing to make it billett proof as possible. Shock question don't understand what you mean

For my Yfz 426 I need to make it quieter too so I took out the core and found washers that fit inside sung. Then cut the washers in half and welded them to the core staggered. Five made a difference in noise big time.

Glad your leak down is good. Plug chop is good too when it runs good. I guess the next post will have to be in the correct area lol

This guy joined yesterday Sometimes the rod can make some noise too. Pull off reeds and turn crank so you can move the con rod side to side. If you can move it more than 1/16 the crank has not been welded and it is comming apart. Mine was about a 1/4 inch of side to side movement when I bought mine. Also if you piston is slapping you will see the scratches on the piston and cylinders maybe some broken / deformed piston skirt. If you remove the exhaust pipes you can see the top of the the pistons. As far as the 2002 comment I think that banshee engine has not changed much inside from 1987-2006 and they still make the same engine new today.

Foam and quick Crete thats home depot stuff. Try a case of silly string because it is 2 stroke compatable. Don't forget the mufflers too.

If you where going to do just sand dunes the I would keep the spindle mounts but hard pack I might get worried. The pipes I would run but I don't trust the builder( I bet the carbs are not set for those pipes) it everything is good then it is person ell preference. I would say they with be annoying. Good deal and make some money selling the spindel mount rims + 200?$ Going back to stock less than 100$

Love the shee engine just need to put it in to frame that could better Handel the speed of it.

The tors is a safety system. It is the cause of many diffrent issues. I would remove the tors and clean your carbs / fix floats sync carbs. Maybe even a leak down and plug chop. There are all types of ppl here so the great info here is worth the patients for it.

X2 time to chop it

X2

There was one here for sale back in January

Miss on one side swap spark plug boots ( new plugs too) But I fixed my one side miss with fixing the floats levels

In San diego good areas rent vs. buy is close so a year ago I stopped renting. 277k 23k down 4.5% = 1,900 mo.

Reeds will chip or crack off

320-330 mains 25 pilot mid clip on needle (stock) and the mix should be 1/2 out to 2 turns out then do a plug chop. Adjust for plug chop results. Super good idea to do a leak down. If you are jetted this way and stil have a bog check crabs and post back if you didn't get it fixed I have a HJR dune port 4 mill. I hope your needle is the stock one not the dyno jet long needle. You can try to choke the bike to see if your 1/2 throttle bog goes away.

Remove the brass seat and use gritty tooth paste and q-tip to clean the seat. I bought new oem needles and seats and they leaked from sitting then used this trick ans it worked good ( also on several other banshees too)

Oops I reread your post. Can. You tell if the needle is stock? When you said the bikpipes smoke after wot for ten seconds I thinks that the pipe are super hot and it is burning up some oil resadue inside the pipes and the idle exhaust is coing the pipes down. If the needle and seat was an issue it will over flow more often. Is 115 low for a new rebuild at 2000 elevation. I would expect 130 at sea level.

In diffrent rpms the leak will get worst. But you tested it and that's is not the issue. But if you have a small leak( lean) then go up to 270 or 280 because of the leak. Some leaks show up when the engine is hot. Yours tested good so I would check other areas.

How is the leak down? If you have a small vaccum leak you might be compensating for it.