kjh

Axia Alloys, make sure you measure twice.

38mm mikuni flat slides, 300 mains, 32.5 pilots, needle clip in center position at sand mountain, nv (4000 ft?)

yea i was thinking the same thing, should prob consider cubs?

I will check compression tomorrow where should it be?

not sure on compression i would have to check it, don't know what squish is need some help there.

I have had many bikes prior to this not heat up as this one does, granted this is the most hp i have ever run, but it just doesn't seam right. After doing a couple hill climbs i have coolant coming out of the overflow before i get back to camp.

My mods: fresh build, 7mil crank, 68.5 bore with wsm pistons in stock ported cylinders, billet head from white knuckle racing, billet impeller, all shift mods, clutch lock up with straight cut gears, a/m chinsese(cheap)radiator running straight engine ice. Fuel = 110 mixed 40:1 with Torco oil. Engine is heating up after about 15 min of riding(above 200), mainly when putting around or when there is no air flow. Runs cool charging up a hill but will heat up when going slower. Jetting is correct. (Had it heat up running rich too) Checked head bolts they are torqued correct. Have no leaks and have done a leak down test. Not sure where to go from here, have thought about trying the oem radiator? or a different head? anybody ever have an air pocket in the cooling system? Too heavy of mods for stock cylinders?

I been running pods only for years in sand. No issues. I have the pro design set up used if interested.

I'll check that out, thanks for the help.

Where did you get the intakes? I'm considering out of frame but have a hard enough time loading the toy hauler as it is.

Can anybody tell me the chrarcteistics of Paul Turners? Anybody used both? I am currently running in frame cpis, like the pipes but am tired of fighting the tight fit with my a/m mikuni flat slide carbs. Will Paul turners clear the carbs better? I ride dunes only and like to hill climb will the low to mid paul turners be a good fit for that? 7mm crank, 68mm bore.

Just needed another opinion. Thank you for your insight. Good info.

68.5 wsm pistons. Torco oil with 110. Did not clean.

Knew that was coming. Have a bad seal in bottom end. Leaking oil

http://s1291.photobucket.com/albums/b550/khaglan/?action=view&current=2013-01-30_18-41-29_251_zps935697f4.jpg They are brown on top. My first attempt at photo link hope it works.

I used these, they worked good make sure your measurements are accurate. http://www.axiaalloys.com

I am not sure, I can't remember so I will take it apart and double check that, thanks for the reply.

Just checked overflow lines are hooked up correct. Using Maxima MTL 80 Wt oil.

i do still have an overflow. and i just got done with a frame up build. Its possible thats the cause I will check it out. thanks for the replys.

water pump seal done twice.

On a new top end rebuild I was getting milky oil, so I drained it, replaced the coolant pipe o-ring and water pump gasket again just to be sure(did it originally). Ran it again and Oil was milky right away. After further inspection I found oil coming out of the bearing behind the sprocket. I am going to rebuild my bottom end and am wondering if the water in oil can be from something in the lower end or do I have another issue? If its tied to the bottom end I may try to do lower end without taking top end all apart again since I just did it but am unsure why I have water in oil.

So I made a Rookie Mistake. Did Frame up build with a motor that I bought. While I had the motor out I figured I might as well rebuild the top end, however I didn't do a leak down test and after the first few rides I discovered that oil is pouring out of the bearing behind the sprocket, oil is blowing out the pipes, it has a rich condition in the mid range, plugs are saturated with oil....but hey it starts on the first kick! The bike has a 7mil twister crank, all the shift mods, straight cut gears with lock up. I have never had to do a lower end rebuild. What needs to be replaced, checked or upgraded? Can I do the rebuild from the bottom or do I need to disassemble the top end agaiin? Should I buy the shift drum with bearing from Trinity racing? I ride dunes only with emphasis on hill shooting.

Ok I seem to be having some banshee blues here. Trying to leave for a trip tomorrow, was making some clutch spring changes tipped my bike on it side and oil poored out the seal behind the front sprocket. Don't think I can find the parts in time, don't even know what i need at this point. Can I ride like this or should I leave it behind? Top end is new, I don't want to damage anything.

Thanks

Running a lock up. I put in a new clutch, cable, pancake bearing. When i made the adjustment at the pressure plate and lined up the aarows on the case where the cable connects, i had to adjust the clutch lever all the way out. Didnt seem right so i took the adjustment at the pressure plate all the way in. The aarows dont line up but i have more adjustment now at the lever. Seems to be working but is this right? Am i missing something?