kamp0ss

I am at 200-500ft above sea level. My temps are between 60-100. It is stock bore. I got the K&N and +4 being delivered today. Am surprised how little response this got. But hopefully I will get more feedback.

200-600ft above

So currently my banshee has: -Pro Circuit pipes and Silencers -V-force3 Reeds and Cages -Pro Designs Air Filter -Holes in Airfilter Box (with little filters) -TORS removal kit I bought it this way and have no idea what it has for jetting. I am guessing it is what came with the pipes but not sure. I am getting this weekend: - +4 Timing Plate - K&N Air Filter Can someone tell me what I need for jetting and where a cheap place is too buy it? And possibly a how to website as well on installation. After I put these new mods in, I need to rejet, but do I also have to re-sync or anything else? THANKS P.S. I ride with the air filter cover on, and have the little holes cut into the box with the mini filters. My temp is between 60 and 100.

So currently my banshee has: -Pro Circuit pipes and Silencers -V-force3 Reeds and Cages -Pro Designs Air Filter -Holes in Airfilter Box (with little filters) -TORS removal kit I bought it this way and have no idea what it has for jetting. I am guessing it is what came with the pipes but not sure. I am getting this weekend: - +4 Timing Plate - K&N Air Filter Can someone tell me what I need for jetting and where a cheap place is too buy it? And possibly a how to website as well on installation. After I put these new mods in, I need to rejet, but do I also have to re-sync or anything else? THANKS

Alright, I am getting my Carb syncing tool today. I am looking for some last minute tips from people that have actually used this tool. -Do I need to do anything to my throttle or throttle cable? -Do I need to reset my idle screws? If so, to what? -Do I need to adjust my sliders to anything prior to testing? -What should I fix first the idle (with no throttle) or the sliders (with 1/8 throttle)? My left pipe idles fine but my right one crackles a little bit. Would I be able to just tune the right one to match the left one or should I start from scratch and match up the idles and go from there? Thanks.

It should arrive Thursday, if I can't figure it out you'll be hearing from me lol

I did, actually just bought the tool from you guys at F.A.S.T My left carb idels and runs mint, can I just adjust the right one to match it? Or do I gotta start from scratch with the idle?

Sorry, I just redid the compression test again cause that was way too far off, my atv runs great. Both were at 145 psi. Is that high, low or good?!

Pro Circuit Pipes, Vforce 3 reeds, K&N Filter on the way, TORS removal kit, and about to change my timing plate to +4 I really only ride like every other weekend, from May-October, think it can wait til next season? This is not good news lol

Alright, just looking to find out how to evaluate my compression. I got a compression tester today and here are my results: Right Carb = 125 psi Left Carb = 140 psi Can someone tell me what this means, good and bad. Thanks!

Alright, so what I did the other day was adjust the slides. And to my eye they are perfect. So when I use this tool is there a certain number I am trying to match the two carbs at? Do I give it a little gas and adjust the slides, then let it idle and adjust the idle? There has got to be a certain number for the idle at least, I am assuming. I just don't understand how the sliders move at exactly the same time but would not have the same air flow rate, other than by a small decimal. My final question is, often one slide raises before the other, so when I am using the sync tool how do I test for this? Or am I supposed to adjust slides by eye first to get them moving at the same rate and then use the sync tool after to get the airflow correct? Thanks for your help, I appreciate it.

So it doesn't matter if they both read 7 or both only read 3? I saw a video and the guy did it with the gas on a little bit, and I believe he was tightening the tops of the carbs to make them in sync. I don't quite understand this because they could be synced with suction but they may not be synced with the throttle, does this make sense? Then in the video he had it idleing and was changing the screws on each cylinder to match. What I don't understand, again, is how you can match them but still know you are where you want to be if you don't have a set number. They can both idle really high and match or idle low and match. Can someone clear this up?

He meant tune the idle. For air flow. If I get that tool how do I use it? What numbers do I want it to read at. Any videos or instructions with it?

Alright, so I just followed a video on how to sync the carbs, and it seemed pretty easy so I did it! (This was with out it running, and without the pressure checker.) So I took off the air filter box and the sliders lined up with the throttle all the way in, so I moved on to adjusting the sliders free play. As I pressed the throttle in the right one started a little before the left so I adjusted it, and I got it literally perfect so I tightened the screws back up (TORS removed). I put everything back together, hooked up the gas and air box, put the plastics on (I was convinced I would be done). Pulled it out of my garage, fired it up, and for some reason the compression seemed stronger coming out of the right exhaust pipe, but once it warmed up it seemed even for the most part. I rode it around my yard real slow as it warmed up, just listening to it and feeling the throttle, which in my opinion had better response. I could be wrong though haha. Anyways, it was running pretty well when on the throttle, so I brought it back to my garage and watched it idle and the right exhaust was making subtle crackling sounds. I asked my cousin what it could be and he said either bad gas/oil mix or the airflow was off. I run 40:1 and it was running very good in my opinion, so I canceled that option out. I am left to believe the airflow is my problem. He also mentioned it will need a tune up now since the carbs have been synced. Is this correct or could there be other problems? I believe I hooked my air filter box up the same way it was before, so I doubt that would be the problem. Can someone tell me how to check my airflow or show me a video of how to do a tune? I recently took a small engine class, and am real bad at tuning one of those, so the easier you make it for me the better! I have many more questions to ask about this, but don't want to keep typing because I doubt members will want to read this much lol. Thanks

i am doin a +4 this weekdn as well

Alright, so it is almost time for the next season to begin for me. Last season I ran 32:1 and it smoked a lot, so this time I am going to try 40:1. Last season I ran Castor 927 and did not foil any plugs, but was thinking about switching it up and trying another this time, just to see if anything is better. The three I am looking at are: Klotz R50 Klotz Supertechniplate Amsoil Interceptor The problem I am having is... they say "intended for racing engines." I read an article saying that there are so many oils for different users and what works for others doesn't necessarily work for you. These three oils I have found on the forums to be the most commonly recommended. I was hoping I could get some recommendations, or information how to find out what will work best for me. I mostly ride trails with occasional areas to open it up. Some oils only burn clean at high RPMs such as dragging, I was curious if it would be any different for me. I still ride pretty hard on the trails, but I only have bolt on mods, and not necessarily a "racing" engine. Thanks all.

Because the weather has gotten so nice out so fast, I am going to hold off til the end of this riding season. I have decided to get a port job from Herr Porting.

What does this go for all together? How much does it add? I was considering sending to herr's and getting a trail port job

he said it gives more mid range power. i dont like when 4 strokes get off the line faster than me!

- What exactly does it mean to have the head domes cut vs having them shaved? My only worry with getting a ton more power is that I have to change other stuff to compensate for the power and thats just more money I gotta spend. - Which k&N filter is good for riding trails, seeing occasional mud and water? I know some are good for dirt, some are good for trails, it depends what kind of riding you do. -I am pretty sure my TORS are done then, cause there is no box on top of them, just chords coming off of the carbs. - I have been using Castrol 927 oil. - The milling always confused me, I am a rookie with engine talk. I plan to do the engine work once I figure out how it all works. Right now I just don't know what and when things need to be done. If there was a rookie answer sheet this would be much easier lol. I guess I am just taking baby steps. I have about 300 to spend on upgrades, and I prefer power over cosmetics. I know when you start doing stuff to the engine you gotta change other stuff to compensate for the power, and I dont wanna spend my budget on tuning the engine then have no money to change stuff that needs to be changed to handle all the power. Is this too confusing? I guess what I am looking for from others is a gameplan, such as, you already have this(i.e pipes and reeds), so now your next step would be this and this (i.e milled head and flywheel), and as a result of the increased power you will need to do this (i.e get a better clutch). If this makes sense GREAT! but if not I will try and re-explain lol. - My cousin recommended the next mod I do would be get a new crank, would this be worth considering? -Can you explain what +4 means for a timing plate? Does it mean 4 more notches? What exactly will a +4 timing plate do? - That is a good price. What would be the benefits of doing it myself, vs buying a +4 like Coupelx mentioned? My trans oil is fresh, are you refering to changing it if I do the mod on the timing plate? **Thanks for all your help, I am a quick learner so whatever time you waste on me is going toward a good cause! lol This is all great info, thanks for your help thus far!

Alright so spring is right around the corner and the Banshee is getting ready to hit the trails. As much fun as I has last fall riding, as a first time banshee owner, it is time to do some new mods for the new season. I have done a lot of research the past couple days to see what else I can do without taking the engine apart and doing all the expensive stuff. I'll list the different things I've considered, so that you guys can hit all the points and help me out. Some are noobish questions, but it is only my second season with a banshee (not counting winter) so go easy on me Here's what I already have done to my shee. Pro Circuit Pipes, Vforce 3 reeds, it has been jetted, I think I have pro-designs air intake, but I don't know what the stock looks like, so I'm not sure. I really just want to get more noticeable power before I start taking the engine apart, but here's what I want to do, or am not sure if it is worth doing... please tell me what you guys think is worth doing, not worth doing, or anything I missed that I could do to get more power. 1. Shave the heads - From what I've read .040 is a good amount before going to race fuel. It's fairly inexpensive, and people suggest this is the next step after reeds and pipes. My cousin said to get a new cranks before you do this. 2. 2-1 Toomey Air Filter - I read somewhere this is better for airflow, but you will have to adjust your jetting if you do this. I mostly ride trails and sand pits, is this worth doing, or will it suck in the sand. I am 80% sure I have Pro-Designs air filter right now, which do you recommend? I also saw that you needed to move your coolant if you get this. I also saw a K&N filter lid that was supposed to let in more air too, if I were to keep the box I would consider this method, what do you think? 3. Boost Bottle - My friend says its good for throttle response. But 90% of people say its just looks and is garbage. 4. TORS eliminator kit - Can someone please explain this. I see it everywhere, saying that it is a must do for banshees. Can someone tell me how to check if it has been done, or not. I also read you need a Kill switch if you do this. Is it worth it, what are benefits? 5. Bigger Carbs - I heard these were great if you planned on upgrading your engine later on or just staying the same, but I also heard they were pricey. I would rather do a couple cheaper things than buy one large mod, but if it is worth the money I suppose I wouldn't mind looking into it. 6. Cool Heads - I really didn't do too much investigating on this, but I've seen a lot of people have them. I can kind of guess what they do, but what do they do exactly? 7. This is not a product, just a question. I did 32:1 mix last fall but I was smoking my cousin out big time lol. What mix should I try next to get rid of the smoke and make it more lean I guess...? So as you can see, I have ideas, but no direction as of now. Any help is great, and if someone can tell me what order things should be done, that would be even better! Thanks all.