kamp0ss

What do my plugs look like now or after I ride for a while? The smoke ring is very faint, I don't want to keep riding it if I am too lean. I keep rejetting because it isn't perfect. I had 330 in and it was rich but the WOT was real good. I just cant seem to get consistency from pilot - needle - main jet.. From what I read, I understand I need to get the main jet perfect so that I can dial in the rest. So I am trying to do that. I read somewhere today that you need to run the gear out and kill it.. Do you think I should have rode it out more to get the ring thicker? I only went midway through 6th

Alright, so today I had the chance to do a plug chop.. or two. I put the jets in, and I raced down the street with WOT, the first three gears the tires came off the ground. I got up to 6th gear, I got about a quarter through the gear, let off the throttle, pulled in the clucth, and killed the engine.... I looked down the plugs and it still looked white to my eye, so I cut one of them down. When I got the threads off it was still pretty white, with a thin smoke ring (very faint, the color of pencil lead) it looked like someone tried to trace a circle around the plug with a pencil and did a sloppy job. It was not a circle but it was wavy, and very thin. I didn't bother taking a photo to post because it was very upsetting that my results did not match what was seen online, after I was so proud I finally got the chance to do a plug check.. I thought maybe I didn't ride the gear out long enough or I was supposed to press the kill switch with the throttle still at WOT, so unhappily I made a second attempt. I repeated the process however at the end I held WOT til the end and with the throttle in, I killed the engine, and pulled the clutch in.. I had the same results. I don't think I am running too lean for this to happen. I am running 290 jets. Does anyone have any idea what went wrong, or other methods of testing this?

The left is 280 plug chop WOT up to 3rd gear. The right is 300 plug chop WOT up to 3rd gear + 1 ride down the street and back.

What do you mean by range?

Alright, so apparently my eyes are deceiving. I was fed up and decided to cut one of my spark plugs.. This is what it looked like after I did a plug check in 3rd gear. And then rode down my street and back (without killing the engine until after a complete stop. I know it isn't as good as a plug chop, but now that I know they aren't white I am willing to go again and do a regular plug chop. Here are the results: Should I go again with the 300 mains in and do a regular plug check, or drop them. Let me know what you guys think

Yea, i know what you mean. Just don't understand why I did a plug check and looked down and it was white. I am not running too lean. I just don't understand it. Someone told me today it could be a blown head gasket, but I think it runs fine, other than improper jetting.

Then what am I doing wrong in my plug check..?

I am checking both the strap and looking down to the base. Can you post a photo of how the smoke ring looks? From what I hear it is milk chocolate. I think I would notice a milk chocolate ring, unless it is very faint.

ya.. i am gonna go to my gfs this weekend, her neighborhood is a little more laid back. any idea why they kept coming off white? was i doing the plug check wrong? i pin it in 1st, when it tops off switch gears, all the way to 3rd, i pin it in 3rd and when it was about to top off i killed the engine and pulled in the clutch. i coasted down the street to my house, took the plugs off and they were white lol maybe a little darker if i compared to another unused one, but basically no change to the eye.

It is so damn hard to do this in my neighborhood, it sucks. I just bought a box of spark plugs. I put two fresh ones in. Flew up my street with WOT got to third gear and killed it. Pulled in my driveway took a plug out and it looked exactly the same as it did when I put it in. I went out and rode around my backyard for 15 minutes then flew up and down the street, all the people that were walking ran off the street and gave me nasty looks, got back to my house checked the plugs and it was still exactly like it looked before. I doubt it is because I am running too lean. I have 300 Mains Middle Needle Clip and 27.5 Pilot with 1.5 turns out. The only thing I noticed was better response because the spark plug was new lol. Anyone have any ideas other than drive to the countryside?

Ya, I am going to try 290 today. I have heard from other people they were running 280 25 and 3 clip at 800 elevation. I think 280 was the best, but I don't think I will be able to run 25 pilots.

I just ran it with 300 mains, middle clip, and 27.5 pilot with 1.5 turns on the air screw. I could only do full throttle up to 4th gear, but it felt really good. The only thing I noticed was a little bit of hesitation in the wind up. It was definitely bogging on the needle clip though, I think 2nd clip is the right spot. Should I drop to 290 or wait til I can do a plug chop? Can I do a plug chop with 4 gears WOT?

Should I drop my Mains down to 300? My plugs now are pretty black. Ill leave 27.5, I'll switch needle to 3rd. What should I start with for mains?

I don't have the room to do plug chops. I just have to go by feel for now until I have a weekend I can go to my other house and open it up. I am pretty sure I will be between 280-300 mains with 27.5 pilots. Do you think 3rd clip on the needle would be a good starting point?

The bike has bog at start, and sputters up top. I had it idle and tuned it to 1.5 for fastest idle, then rode at quarter throttle and under to check throttle response and had it dialed in at 1 and 1/8 turns out. That was perfect. Then I went to do the needle and it went down hill. I haven't done a plug chop with the 330s in, I am pretty sure it is too high. Do you have any guess what would be a range to test in? I had it at 280 before, i am debating going back but don't want to jump down a lot and run too lean.

I've been attempting this for a couple months now, and am very close to giving up. Alright, so here is the simple version of what has happened thus far... Attempt 1: One very helpful gentleman from this website walked me through the process of jetting and told me to go from Mains Jets down to Pilot Jets. We talked daily and conversed for a couple weeks and it seemed as though we were very close. However it was not quite perfect, and he said the last attempt would be to lower the carb floats 2mm. I was later told this wasn't safe, and put them back to stock height. We finished with 280-300 Mains (don't remember exactly), 2nd needle clip, and 27.5 pilots. Attempt 2: I fiddled around with it until I got the best throttle response. I ended up with 27.5 pilots (slight bog at start), 2nd needle clip, and 330 Mains (without plug chop) Attempt 2: Another helpful gentleman from this website walked me through a different process starting with the Pilot Jets and working up to the Main Jets. I took down many notes, and referred to the Banshee Toolbox for extra guidance because they were virtually the same. I tuned the idle, and it was good. Drove it around good under 1/4 throttle to test response and had the air screw at 1 and 1/8 turns out and 27.5 pilot. That was perfect. I moved onto the needle and it was a bit sputtering when pushed pass 1/4 throttle so I moved the needle clip to the top. and now it started bogging at start and ran like shit, so I moved it back to the 2nd and left it alone. Currently I have 27.5 Pilots, 2nd clip from top, and 330 Mains. I am guessing the reason my needle clip caused such havoc was because my Mains are entirely too high. Unfortunately I live in an Urban area, and cannot do plug checks daily to find out what to do. I have a feeling they are too large, but don't know what to drop them too. I know that the clip and the main work together at some point, and that is why I think it ran badly after moving the needle clip up. If anyone can please help me get an idea of what I need to do for my last attempt it would be greatly appreciated. My mods and information follow: 2006 Yamaha Banshee TORS Removal Stock Airbox, With Foam Holes, No Lid K&N Filter with Outerwears +3 Timing Plate Pro Circuit Pipes V-Force Reeds 145 PSI in each piston 40:1 200-600ft above sea level New England weather (60-90 F) **I don't have any air leaks or anything, so please don't ask if there are any mechanical problems.

I was tightening my breather today, and I must have tightened it too far.. It punctured through the bowl and put a hole in the side. I need to fix it asap because I am going away to ride wed-sun. Someone mentioned JB Weld. I really just need to plug the hole somehow to get through the week and I will order a new carb when I get back. I don't have time to order one now. Are there any other methods of patching this for the time being? Does anyone recommend JB Weld? Thanks

Please PM me with pics and prices. I need them ASAP, I live in Massachusetts. I need hardware as well to mount tires. Thanks

so, by bleeder are you talking about the silver nipple that is on top, or the actual line itself that goes into the caliper? before i bled the brakes by doing that method and loosening the brake line. secondly, do you tighten the bleeder and then let go of the brake and repeat, or do you leave it open the whole time?

So I got new brake pads and took off my caliper to put the pads in. Someone must have hit the brake at some point that week when I had it apart because the piston was all the way out. I pushed the piston all the way back in with the cap off and noticed hydrolic fluid leaking out the back of the caliper (Maybe I pushed too far or too fast?). I put the pads on and mounted it, I went to try the brakes and the piston didn't even move. I took it back off and took the pads off and pressed the brakes and nothing happened. I tried to bleed the brakes and still nothing happened. I took it all apart and did not see anything wrong other than the piston was fairly tough to move back and forth by pushing from either side. Don't know too much about this aspect, could use your help. Thanks (I was thinking of draining my fluid and clearing the line then refilling it, not sure if it will do the trick or not)

Nope

i dont have a chain breaker

Doesn't have my size. I need 104, smallest is 110. From what an earlier post said, 8k lbs is a safe bet for a Banshee, that has 7k. Probably not a big difference tho..

They both say "8120 lbs. average tensile strength". http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?navType=type&vehicleId=3936&navTitle=Drive&webTypeId=36&webCatId=9&prodFamilyId=975 http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?navType=type&vehicleId=3936&navTitle=Drive&webTypeId=36&webCatId=9&prodFamilyId=974