possum

Sorry, Jeff. My mistake

Jim, so your saying these builds with cheaper cranks are crank failure not user error? Seems to be common belief that builders are not to blame for installing or selling these cranks. Its always user error right?

Wow

Thanks pastry once again. Fools be sleepin

Ive ridden on some. I was not impressed, there softer then comps but not by alot. If your looking for travel, look elsewhere. Just my experience with them.

For the love of God, dont get a serval

hmm, thats a new one, i thought nothing was wrong with it. And detonation is normal for race motors? With those "custom" .030 squish flat roof domes.

must be your idol, cause you know more about him then me.

I never had to choke my carbs with pjs

Pjs are fine. U just have to know how to jet. I have pjs and pwks

Now only need 1 of each 155 160 162 168 mains and needles

Some pwks come with metal screws factory.

This is correct. I just recently asked him about chroming.

Nice. Thats what I woulda done.

I need C and D series needles and mains from 150-170 also pilots from 40-55. Anyone got extras they wanna sell?

Pics? Whats the step and squish band width?

Windy, are the shearer oof drags really made for alky? So does that mean they wont be the right pipe if your on gas?

Take your filters off and see if the slides move up when you run them in. To see if thats even the problem. And double check it by holding the throttle cracked to see if it idles and how high the slides are. If the idle screws wont raise them at all or enough.

Is it normal practice to forget? Does that make it ok? What if someone needed a part asap? Just wondering.

exactly what i thought

Everything i said is still true. Jl's shock still sucks and I got the motor that way. end of discussion. Go ahead and run around in circles, back track and twist the story to make it "look" like you know anything. Im out!

windy. im wondering where u got the idea of me having a vague understanding of camber and caster. camber was never discussed. i was referring to all that positive caster in these two frames from such a drastic rake. and the other guy thought i ment rake. (this frame and the other thread). i tried to be cool about it and agree with the other guy. but my questions are still left over there unanswered even by matt the suspension guru. if either of u knew the answers u would respond with a real answer. and matt yea i was telling shearer how childish u are then the tierod angle comes up. and u still dont have ur facts straight. if i go +4 the steering shaft goes +2 = -2" behind stock location. if i go +6, its the same thing always approx 2" behind stock location. now can u remember that? now shearer said what problem is caused by a increased angle. and i said i fixed that by modifying the shaft. then he says, oh ok ur fine then. i said, exactly. now thats word for word so ur story is made up. like most of ur comments regarding me. oh yea before i forget u were standing there in shearers room and while shearer was telling me how bad my motor was and was laughing at the domes that were in it. he told you all about the motor. then u say" i dont know anything about motors so ill just believe u". quote unquote. so go ahead and feel like ur somebody on the internet. cause u have most fooled. but i know the truth. oh and since u supposedly know suspension why were the shocks u took to try on jls bike so far off? they werent even close. ur just guessing at the setup like anyone else can do. but thats right im talking to a suspension guy that obviously knows suspension

just learned? ive known this. i can tell u dont know much about alignment.

warrior link is exactly 1-1/16" longer. and drops the rear 2 to 2-1/2" depending on swingarm length

check coil wires also