americanmusc1e

been workin on it.... the back came out good........ the front is a Maier replacement and its faded and not oxidized..... I'm having no luck with it...... I wet sanded with a 320 grit sanding sponge.... then with 1000 grit sandpaper........ then I used turtlewax rubbing compound..... then turtlewax polishing compound

I rebuilt the carburetors and stuck it all back together for right now because I am taking it somewhere tomorrow...... I'll pull the cylinders when I get back and see what the deal is with the compression.....

like I said in the beginning of this thread...... I got the atv two months ago..... I'm a poor college kid.... I'm putting money into it a little at a time...... yes..... I'm going to clean it up....yes.... I'm going to fix the big tear in the seat.....and I want to replace the plastics with black ones.... but I'll probably just try to restore mine......... I have put every available dollar and minute I could give it so far.... but that's only two months worth of money and two months (minus 15hrs of college and 25hrs of work a week) worth of work.........I'm working on it like crazy now because I"m on spring break this week.... I pulled the right carb apart last night..... and I found: Main- 300 pilot- 25 air bleed jet (IDK what its called)- 1.6 mixture screw- 1.5 turns gonna check it real good and set the float level and stick it back together.... then sync the carburetors..... should I worry about trying to smooth out that nasty port job?? what about the 20psi less compression on one cylinder??

OK... I did a little work today.... pulled the carbs off....... I'll go through them this week did a compression test.... 140 on the left cylinder and 120 on the right...... does that sound right???? pulled the reeds and found a nasty porting job on the carburetor adapters......

I'm still working on my launch..... the first two times I still had my heavy 22" dirt devils on there..... then I threw on the sand devils and tried launching in 3rd.... then I went down to second.... that seems to be my best launch..... I just need to work on my seat position..... going to pull the carbs off RIGHT NOW.... also I tested for water in my tank with modified water paste and found I had a some (around here all the pump gas is E10 so the water mixes with the fuel.) so I'm definitely switching to avgas too (light blue 100LL)

not sure on the size of the domes.... It was on when I bought the bike don't know the compression ratio and I'm going to do a compression test as soon as I can get a compression tester...... next week ANOTHER QUESTION...... I hope this isn't a dumb question... I have been pulling the clutch for every shift...... can I shift clutchless when I race???? will it hurt the transmission???

I got the bike 2 months ago.... this is the first time I've raced it.... and I'm still working on it and tuning it...... when I rebuild the carbs I'll check the jets that they have in them now and go from there....... I'm planning on drag racing regularly....... so I'm looking for mods that will give me an advantage without turning it into a drag only bike...

very good seller.... I got my stuff fast...... good communication...... good price.....

bought a set of stock front shocks from Trick2stroke...... good seller.... plenty of communication..... good price.... and he shipped them out fast..... very happy....

went drag racing yesterday and I lost by less than a bikes length (on a 300ft track) to a Raptor 700 GYTR My banshee has K&N with stock airbox(with the lid on), FMF fatty, Powercore II silencers, and a coolhead My carburetor floods real bad if I let it sit and my plugs might have been partially fouled.... next time I'm bringing extra plugs and rebuilding the carburetors before I go again..... then I'm going to check pull the airbox lid and check the jetting.....then I'm going to check the compression... what else can I do to squeeze a little more out of it??? What timing should I run?? What about switching from 93 pump gas to avgas (blue 100LL) and higher compression domes...... how much more compression can I run??? Reeds??? Should my banshee wheelie during launch??? right now I'm running 13/42 gearing and 20" 8-paddle GBC dirt devils launching in second (the track is sticky black gumbo) and it spins and it won't lift the front end.... if I launch in third it just bogs and spins...

is this plastic too far gone to restore??? If not, what can I use to bring it back??

it looks to me like the lid is what holds the filter in place on the top.... so I can't take it off...

99 banshee with FMF Fatties, coolhead and K&N filter..... will I pick up anything but dirt by modding my stock airbox lid for more flow???

gotcha.... I'll try that right away.....

the shifter on my banshee has too much play in it where it attaches to the splined shaft going into the transmission.... I tried tightening the bolt, but no luck..... Is there any fix for this without just replacing the shifter?????

whoops..... I didn't see this until now..... I probably would have bought them if they were the right size.....

new 22" dirt devils on 8" beadlocks....... me, my pink banshee and the old tires.....

well it looks like I'm getting dirt devils instead of the bearclaws....... they just called me and said the bearclaws are back ordered at least two weeks........ I can't wait that long....

I went ahead and ordered the bearclaws..... when I get 'em in I'll post a pic....... I also ordered a DID O-ring chain, and 13/42 sprockets which should bring me back to the stock gear ratio on 22" tires...... NOW......to save up money for the work that my truck really needs......

I have a 99 banshee and it has a set of GBC Sand Devils on 10" rims and a set of almost totally bald turf tamers on 8" beadlock rims....... I need a set of tires for riding trails and getting through mud.... I don't mud the bike, but occasionally I need to get through it and I'm afraid that regular sportquad tires would spin too much I'm thinking of GBC dirt devils, Kenda bear claws, or ITP mudlites....... in a 22" tire size does that sound good......???? this is a atv park near my house.... most of the riding will be done here or on my land.... http://www.mudbuddys.com/

Titans are pretty badass.... I raced a guy with a 2wd Titan with a Bully Dog, intake, exhaust and built transmission that ran a tractionless 14.2 in the quarter...... only truck I ever raced that I wasn't sure I was going to beat..... we were on our way to our racing spot playing around on the hiway and he down shifted that thing and the whole truck just squatted down and shot forward...... I looked over at my buddy and said OH SH!T!!!, but my old skool chevy hooked up and held him off from a dig.....

thanks, I'll start looking....... I was just considering my options right now...... I still have to pay my mom back the cash she loaned me to buy the bike the bike before I can go and buy shocks. I was supposed to have her payed off a week ago, but both of my trucks decided to break down and I'm strapped for cash this instant.....

I've already changed the transmission oil.... greased the front end, replaced the front brakes, rebuilt the rear Master cylinder and a couple of other things....... it still need a new chain and sprockets and new rear tires (besides the paddle tires) I'm kinda stuck on the rear tires...... I need something that is capable of keeping me out of trouble in the mud and will fit on my 8" beadlock rims...... I'm thinking about ITP mudlites......http://www.4wheelparts.com/ATV-Tires/ITP-Mud-Lite-Radial-Tire.aspx?t_c=78&t_s=478&t_pt=101042&t_pl=101855&t_pn=ITP56A387 I don't necessarily like putting a mud tire on a sport atv, but it beats getting stuck or having to change out to the paddle tires every time it rains...... then, after that I can concentrate on improving my launch and shifting abilities for some amateur drag racing......

I just got a 99 banshee and it has some front suspension problems...... both front shocks do not rebound properly after they are compressed..... if you push the front down and then let go of it it comes up a little bit (more on one side than the other) then if you let it sit for a while it might come all the way back up.... if I take the shocks off the suspension cycles freely through the full range of motion I have the them adjusted all the way up and it helps a little, but I only weigh 140 pounds I'm assuming that I need new shocks..... but I'm on a tight budget.....new Yamaha banshee shocks are $250 apiece and aftermarket start at double that I've considered used YFZ450 shocks, but I've heard that they don't work very well with the stock a-arms are stock banshee shocks rebuildable??? or should I just take my chances with a used set of banshee shocks... what are my options on shocks for under $250 a set????

its kind of an upgrade for me since the previous bike was a honda Recon ES that I had for 6 years.... its going to be used for trail riding and amateur drag racing at a local mud bog/dirt drag place thats a couple of miles from my house....... its a 99 banshee with an aftermarket head, FMF fatty and Powercore II, and its been overbored a little..... thats all the info the PO gave me..... it also has a durablue rear axle and a DG front bumper any way to tell what else has been done to it performance wise?? (timing, reeds, clutch, porting????) tell me what you think and what I should upgrade first......