americanmusc1e

just a slight update.... got it running.... it runs good.. I still need to sync the carbs 100% though..... I also have a leaky fuel valve I need to fix still need to finish the back plastic, paint the front plastic (everything I've tried wont bring it back), then get the seat recovered.... here is how it looks now went racing against a truck and won.... a low 5 second pass in the 250' that was a bad launch.... i'm still working on getting the most out of my driving....

I run 100LL avgas to stay away from ethanol affected pump gas.... avgas is nice because it will keep forver in a sealed container and its usually less than a dollar more than 93 octane pump gas..... one of the problems I have with E10 (gasoline with 10% ethanol) is that the tanks at ALMOST ALL gas stations are not perfectly sealed..... they used to run with 1-4" of water in the bottom of them no problem because the pickups were cut 8-10" off the bottom of the tank..... now if there is ANY water in a tank (and its real easy to get) the fuel picks up the water and keeps it in suspension... so not only are you loosing power from adding 10% ethanol....but you are adding alot of water witch basically waters down the fuel..... water doesn't burn so you loose even more power.... How do I know all this??? My dad has been a fuel pump technician for almost 30years... we use this http://www.jmesales.com/item/27096/Kolor-Kut-Modified-Water-Finding-Paste.aspx (or this http://www.gasoila.com/products/items/allpurposewaterfindingpaste.html ) to detect water in gas tanks at service stations.... just for your info.... all of the service station fuel I have tested lately has come up yellow (at least 6% water) I don't think that the methanol race fuel you buy has near this much water in it..... Plus E10 has a shorter shelf life, is a harsh solvent and eats rubber..... just wait.... they are talking about going to E15 nationwide.....

just got my quad back together and went racing..... they were slow because of easter and no quads showed up... I raced a stock class truck (the winning one) just for fun and smoked it with a low 5 second run..... that's the only run I made and I spun on the launch.... does that time sound about right for my mods?? stock siwnger, worn 20" 8-paddle Sand devils the rest of the mods are in my sig.... last time out I lost to a Raptor 700 GYTR by a couple of feet.... that was before I rebuilt the motor... then it was a stock 350cc bike with FMF fattys and coolhead with 21cc domes... last saturday.... about a month ago.. I'm finally getting my launch figured out .... I need to mark where I need to sit.... I had it perfect the other day... I launched in second and had the wheels a foot off the ground without letting off the throttle until I shifted to third......

got the motor back together..... then I started working on the frame...... while I have it apart I'm painting the frame black I'm also painting the motor silver..... with flat black FMF pipes..... more pics to come....

got all my parts in and started to put it back together..... new TORS-eliminator throttle kit Welded/trued crank Dune ported cylinders modded shift star 19cc domes in my Trinity Coolhead new oil seals overbore with new wiseco pistons modded airbox Now I'm just waiting on the Jets to come in

yeah.... I know how well you can drive the quad has ALOT to do with winning..... there is a regular at where I drag race...... who has a KFX400 (same as a Suzuki LTZ400) with exhuast, intake and jetting that consistantly runs with the YFZ450's and Raptors..... most of it is because he is one hell of a driver....... on a side note, the KFX400 he has is really nice, its an old pro-MX bike with $2000 worth of shocks and the nicest ASV adjustable clutch lever, I swear you can almost pull that thing with one finger..... I've driven it a couple of times.... it was the first sport-quad I ever drove and driving it was what convinced me I HAD to sell my old honda recon and step up to a sport quad.... I remember getting on it and playing around and punching it in second and almost falling off the back.....

I wanted to go 4mil.... but by that time my cylinders were already ported for stock stroke.... plus a 4mil crank is more than I can afford..... Kevin sold me a used trued/welded crank for $150.........I'm really outta cash right now so that was fine for me... The clutch is next.......... but I want to get the motor back together and running first..... I also replaced all the oil seals in the bottom end..... and my new motion pro TORS eliminator throttle cable just got here......

Kevin from HJR just called me and said my crank had already started separating...... its no good..... I need a new crank too........ I think I'm going to rename my banshee money pit #2

So I should start saving for a REAL coolhead???

I'm no expert..... but wouldn't a grooved clutch basket cause the clutch to grab a little??? you pull the clutch lever but the clutch plates try to stay where they are in the grooves.... I think that's why mine's grabbing.....

I have my banshee motor torn down right now getting the cylinders ported and some other stuff... It has a Trinity Racing Stage IV head with 21cc domes.... I plan on running 100LL avgas in the bike... which is at least 100 octane can I or should I move down to smaller domes??? where can I buy domes for a Trinity head???

sent the crank and the shift star off today.... looking at throttle cables and oil seals tonite..... I was going to go with a twist throttle, but now I can't decide...... any Ideas????? The clutch was a little grabby before and It will have to wait... I can do that later after the bike is back togther.... the friction plate thickness is still around .150

yeah we glass bead alot of heads at the machine shop where I work..... the finish on aluminum is really good... I've got a sandblasting cabinet at my house with Aluminum oxide abrasive in it..... but I think that's too aggressive for aluminum.... I guess I'll have to convince my boss to let me use his sandblaster.........

pulled the cases... everything was stock....

split the cases today.... everything inside was stock... the crank... the head... the mess.... the clutch basket is kinda groooved... like I said..... I should have cleaned the motor before I took it apart.... painted my exhaust....

pulled the engine out today... going to get a flywheel puller right now.... I hope to have the engine down and the crank out by monday so I can send it off....... I'm really kicking myself now that I didnt' clean the motor up really good before I pulled the cylinders/head off..... now I'll have to wait until its all apart.... What other stuff should I do while I have the engine apart??

I lost to the raptor.... then i pulled both carbs out and cleaned them and tried to sync them but they were not right.......... then I lost to a 400ex.... a 400ex with bald tires..... and an 85CC dirt bike..... yeah....it was bad.... I think my throttle cable got stretched when I pulled the carbs off...... even with the left adjuster all the way out and the right adjuster all the way in... I could not get the slides to open right....... the left always opened faster and higher..... so in a quick fix I rigged the throttle cable... it worked great in the midrange, but it wouldn't let my right carb open all the way up

I've got the cylinders off and I sent them in to get ported.... is there any way I can tell if my crank has been welded??? How hard is it to pull the crank out If I have the topend off???

sending them to HJR for a overbore and a dune port.....

sending my cylinders off to Herr Jugs Racing today........ Getting an overbore and new pistons........ AND A DUNE PORT....... Can't wait to get them back..... I'm worrying about my crank.... should I pull it out and get it welded and trued???

butterfly or slide valve it still has vacuum behind the carburetor and you can measure it at the transfer tube ports..... a vacuum port just gives you manifold vacuum unless its a ported vacuum port like you hook a distributer up to that has no vacuum at idle....

I was going to use two-stoke oil in case the carbs were way out of sync I don't want water sucked in my motor...... ATF is probably a little thinner I could use that..... I think I will try it...

Look here: http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_I_synchronize_the_carburetors%3F halfway down the page...... Slack-tube manometer could I use two-stroke oil and hook the tubes to where the balance tube usually hooks in......

Like the title says.... I pulled my cylinders and I'm going to bring them to the shop and see if they need boreing or just a re-ring.... but I'm thinking of getting them ported...... I mostly ride trails and drag race on the weekend..... so I'm not interested in a drag only High RPM sort of thing.... just a little better than stock Who does a good job???? How much does it normally run?? as of now my only mods are K&N, FMF Fattys, Powercore II silencers, and Trinity Racing Stage IV head.... all already on when I bought the bike.....

OK.... things are getting worse.... thursday I lost to a 400ex banghead I think the problem is my carburetors are not synced right.... they open even all the way up... until the very end the left one opens further.... the bike runs real strong in the midrange but at WOT the left pipe gets alot hotter than the right one and it doesn't want to rev right.... so to race it I had to shift way early..... ..... I think some of it is the crappy throttle cable..... I'm ordering a twist-throttle TORS eliminator cable.... a flywheel puller...... and a carb sync tool... any recomendations on brands??? in the mean time I may pull the head and cylinders and see why I'm down on compression and then re-ring or overbore as necessary I've been working on cleaning up the plastics right now.....