vifferman

They will make a HUGE difference. The blue tint is cool too.

If they are stock headlights they have two filaments, one for low the other for high. You probably have a burned out high filament in the bulb on the right side. As for the high being low on the left side your lense could be dirty. The plug could be in backwards, causing the yellow (high beam) to be connected to the green (low beam) or the wiring could have another issue as could you stator. Stock Banshee bulbs suck, spend the $25 for a set of Tusk lights on E-bay, they make a huge difference. I almost forgot (actually I did and edited my post) you might want to clean your light switch. It comes apart easy and you can spray it with electrical parts cleaning spray and lube the connections with dielectric grease.

I'll take it all! PM sent

http://bansheehq.com...lbum&album=1733 Still broken

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/banshee-custom-seat-cowboys-football-/250770265800?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a631296c8

Something like this: I bought it used and never put it on either of my Banshees. I also have the cut front plastic in white if you need it too.

Ouch! I hope he was okay. A longer swingarm would help, so would getting his weight forward. He wasn't a little guy so hugging the tank like a bull rider might have helped too.

Bump "Just for a minute let's all do the bump Bump bump bump yeah U can't touch this" M.C. Hammer

Nah, ride the crap out of it!

Looks good steady, what color is the swingarm?

Broken Banshee, $1100 Shipping, $600 New Top End, $250....$1950.00 Getting robbed of your $500.00 deposit....... PRICELESS Seriously though, if I lived in Maryland or there abouts I would jump on it!

Nah, it's not bent. It's angled, arced, arched, arciform, bowed, contorted, crooked, curvilinear, doubled over, drooping, droopy, hooked, humped, hunched, inclined, limp, looped, round, rounded, sinuous, slouchy, slumped, stooped, twined, twisted, warped and wilted. But it's not bent.

As with most things the prep is the hardest part. If you skimp on the prep the paint will chip and peel off quickly. I've had two frames powdercoated and wouldn't do it any other way! It's WAY worth the $. They look incredible and are much more durable than rattle can.

Changed my mind (this one works much better) and decided to get +3 arms from Tim at Stellar here in town. They should be ready by Monday! He's building them to fit the YFZ shocks so now only the A Arms with GYTR Skid Plates are up for sale, sorry sickOne. Anyone want these YFZ 450 A Arms and Skids or am I going to have to put them on E-bay? $175 shipped in the continental U.S.A. sound fair? They will be on E-bay for $200 at the end of the week if I don't have any takers

PICS!!!!!

PM on plastics... I want em! How much?

Will do! Anyone want just the A Arms and Skid Plates???

Thanks for the offer but I'd need the shocks if I don't sell the a arms. If the arms sell I'd sell you the shocks, but for more like $150 shipped.

Decided not to go with the YFZ front end after all

I can do $200 for the A Arms and skid plates but not with the shocks too. Lemmie know...

N E 1 ?

Bump..... Buehler.. Buehler.. Buehler.. I want em gone, please don't make me put em on E-bay. Buehler.. Buehler.. Buehler.. Buehler.. Buehler.. Buehler..

The problem with using banshee a arms and yfz shocks is that the yfz shocks are longer so your front end will be taller. That and the bottom shock mount is smaller on the stock banshee arms so you would have to grind a little bit off the arms to make the yfz shocks fit. I think the Full Flight arm mount is open so the yfz shock will fit but you will be sitting high up front. If you can get a good deal on yfz shocks buy them and see. If you can't use them you can always sell them for what you paid if not more.

Full flight makes a arms for banshees and 450 shocks but most of them are +3. If they make them you can probably find them on E-bay

Here's some pics. I'm open to offers.....