alexardoin

Crank sold. Top end still available.

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ttt

Bump.

We had very small dunes so fuel range didn't matter. Wanted to still retain some bottom-mid range.

I have brand new, unused parts for a 4mm build. All work was done by Cam at Redline. It was ported to be an aggressive dune port. The only reason I never assembled and ran this motor was because our dunes in Louisiana got closed last summer. The bore is 66mm as that is what Cam recommended to me so he can use his preference of pistons. Set up to run on alcohol. 66mm bore cylinders for 4mm crank, pistons, and domes. WILL NOT SEPERATE TOP END! $700 shipped. 4mm Hot Rods crank with true and weld and Maxload bearings BOTH sides. $400 shipped. Will sell complete package for $1100 shipped and throw in a free seal kit for buyer. Send as gift or add 3%. Paypal: [email protected] Pics:

You're running the bike really lean. That's why the tip of the spark plug is white. The electrode didn't touch the piston. The gap on the plug has closed up from detonation. The detonation is caused from running really lean. Like mentioned, do a leak down test. If you're lucky, you'll find an air leak but not have damaged the motor. Most likely, you've started to damage the piston and now have no compression. Leak down test first to check for leaks. If it passes the test then check your carb to make sure it's clean and properly jetted. Report your findings here.

Because bigger is ALWAYS better................

Got the carbs in yesterday. Carbs were in great condition. Thanks for the good deal Nieskes. Great seller!

The blue wire by the stator is for the rear brake switch on the newer model bikes. If you dont have a rear brake switch by your rear brake pedal then it wont be plugged into anything. The blue wire for the voltage regulator is the one right by the cdi. Then your actual brake light will plug into the yellow wired connector at the back of the bike.

Money sent!

PM Sent

Nasty, I'll take the carbs once you get the top end sold. Money ready. PM me.

Tyler needs to change this guy's name to BansheeGoo

I've run Klotz Benol and Klotz R-50. I liked the smell of Benol mixed with C12 better so I use that instead. But any Klotz oil is good oil. People like some other brands as well. IDK about other oils but the Klotz oils are all red so you know that your fuel is mixed because it changes the color of it. Just stick to well known brands. They're more expensive than your Wal-Mart special but they are much higher quality. Klotz, Amsoil, etc. Everyone has their favorite brand and ratio. Just stick to quality oils and either 32:1 or 40:1

You can run the cool head on stock cylinders and cub cylinders on any stroke. The Cheetah, Supercub, DM, etc. all require a different head because of the larger bores and different head stud patterns. But CP makes heads for those cylinders. But to answer your question, I ran the same coolhead on my stock stroke 350 and later on my 421 serval. The domes are different according to your stroke and bore and what pistons you run. Hope that helps

PM Sent

PM Sent

PM sent on carbs with stock bowls.

So lately I've been having an issue getting my banshee to start. The only thing I've changed since it's been doing this is I eliminated the keyswitch by connecting the red and black wires on the harness side. I reallly dont think I messed that up as I do have strong spark from both plugs. I did pull the carbs and clean them but they were already spotless. I also checked the compression and have 150-155 psi in both cylinders. Yesterday morning I had a friend tow start it and it cranked right up. I then loaded it up and took it to the dunes and road it all day. I get home and go to start it so I can put it in my shop and once again it refuses to start. I'm just stumped as far as what to look at. It's not like it just wont start cold because it started cold when I got to the dunes it started cold first kick. If anyone has any suggestion on what to look at please let me know! Thanks!