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Everything posted by uhoh0573
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just saw it on the sub header, pm sent.
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price?
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Thanks! But what i was shooting for would be simple sync done by eye first off, that a newb could do without buying a sync tool straight off. Also on stock carbs not tors removed.
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I hope the boner you influenced to move was your own..
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Ive noticed since ive been a member of BHQ that i see alot of newbs with sync issues, myself included when i first got mine. you guys let them know that the sync is off, but how do they adjust it? some quick instructions on how to sync the stock carbs would be awesome for the newbs to be able to fix their sync issues quickly and look at other causes, if the issue at hand is still occuring. so lets hear everyones tricks at syncing easily.
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use the search function, there are TONS of topics on it.
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as phelps said... 1 psi in 6 mins is PERFECTLY FINE. the rule is 1 psi in 6 mins. no more.
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dont waste your time with carb cleaner... if it wont start on its own then let these guys help you figure it out, its not worth a set of rings, or worse...
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You're kidding, right...? So what kind of oil are you running in the crankcase?
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TTT got an axle, still need some arms, gonna ditch the extended swinger idea. pm me with arms you have for sale, no stockers please :-)
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thats kindof what i thought, seems like the pins are awful close together, without some cutting i dont think they will hook up well, spend a day with a siper and maybe have something, but in that time i suppose i could just get a different tire, i dont like the price of the holeshots that are on it now, whats a good substitute?
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A local store has a good deal on turf tamers right now, only thing is its clearing stock of 18-9.50-8's. What would these be like on a road/trail ridden shee?
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Im a quality tech/engineer for a fab company by trade... I can see where stresses could come into play on your side plates, and i believe if you ran a .250"x1" strap from under the top plate, to the bottom edge of each side plate diagonally, you would totally eliminate that possibility.(just saying incase anyone trying this wants a little security). But this looks awesome sir! Was the artwork done with waterjet or laser cut?
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i pulled the head to change a blown head gasket, found the pistons to be very loose, so i put the head on to do a leakdown before i tore the motor down. its fairly hard to check crank seals for leaks with the head and cylinders off.
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While im in these cases, does anybody make a bolt kit to replace these soft screws holding clutch/stator covers on?
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The nicks on the piston are very obviously strikes from pieces of the piston that made it into the pipe. Ill see about splitting it.
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I found several of the pieces in the head pipe, what i dont understand is the piston is beat to death on top but the ports are not nicked up nor is the head, there are no visible signs of pieces rubbing the crank. Im trying to avoid splitting this thing like the plague.
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So i pulled the head to change head gaskets the other night, found the pistons to be very loose so i figured great time to rebuild. I resealed and torqued the head and did a leakdown test which it passed with flying colors, pulled the jugs off and the right cyl had a very large portion of the ex. Side skirt was gone. How can i be sure there are no pieces in the case without splitting the case halves?
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anybody...?
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bought my first banshee a few weeks ago, it came with 2 bent a-arms, so im looking to just go ahead and buy some extended arms, im on a budget so they dont have to be beautiful by any means, just straight. Im also looking to put on an extended swingarm, up to +4. I would like to find an extended axle as well, also up to +4. let me know if any of you have anything!
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got to looking and noticed the right hand air screw was in a full turn from the left, not sure how i missed that but now its not backfiring on that side, carbs are in good time with each other. now to do a plug chop to make sure im in a good spot jetting wise. thanks all!
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Looks like i should be buying a lid, chances are ill need one anyway as we ride in the creek alot. What ports do you pull off of for a sync? Ive got a vacuum sync from our 4-carb cb750 honda days...
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Got the 330's in and it runs 100 percent better but now it has a new habit, if you are free reving it, from low rpm it will backfire on the right hand cyl. And shoot a nice short blue flame, it will also do this if you are riding just under the powerband, and you pin it, it will backfire just before going into powerband, only the right cyl though.
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it dropped another 15 degrees today, banshee is popping and missing on top again, should i go to 320 or 330?

