blubyyou

Notsed.....what did you do or replace to fix your rattle?

Mine does the exact same noise....low idle only. If I up the idle it goes away. I have bumped up my idle slightly and the majority of the noise disappeared. It drives me nuts. I will tell you I have a fresh 4 mil stock cylinder motor, and replaced my transmission with one of Camatv's cut ones....noise still there. Replaced the idler bushing with a FAST replacement....noise still there. New clutch plates and fibers from TUSK too. Only thing I haven't changed is the clutch basket and pressure plate. I'm thinking it may have some play in it but I realy don't think that's my noise. I almost think its from something rattling on the kicker gear or idler gear but have been unable to diagnose the problem. I hope you find out what it is because I would love to fix mine 100%. Good luck...hopefully you don't have to replace the parts I did because it didn't cure my problem and I'm still chasing it down.

I think I ended up with 45 or 48 pilots, Cel needle, and 148 mains with my air Stryker carbs. Im at about 2400 ft too. They seem to definitely like smaller jetting comepared to regular pwk carbs.

Here we go again lol .....there was a huge thread about these I started a while back. I sent him my blingstar stuff off my ltr 450 to copy. Now its just a waiting game until he fabs them up for a banshee. Definitely a lot of interest in them for sure.

Just to let you know fmfs would be a decent trail pipe ....give you the pull you want in the tight trails. Pro circuits work great too. I've been on bikes with toomeys before, good pipe but I still think there are better out there. Like I said I'm not bashing the toomeys as they are a good pipe.

By the way I live about 3 hours east of hazard county in WV so I ride the same kind of terrain....forgot to mention that if you still have the stock carbs you will want to get rid of the TORS system. Search the forum for TORS delete and I'm sure you will find a how to on it.

Some +2 arms with an extended axle along with aftermarket front shocks and a revalved stock rear would make a huge difference. Hit Matt up for a stock rebuild on the rear for a very good price. Fronts can be found used and also resprung/ revalved for your weight, riding style, and arm length. Suspension gets a little pricey but pays off in the end.....just buy a little at a time in the classifieds and put it all on once you obtain it all. I run long travel arms and shocks but its a little overkill I think for trail riding....standard travel will suit you just fine.

+4 on your timing to gain some more bottom end( search forum, you can mod your stock plate for free), tires, pro circuit pipes, clamp on filter using stock box, skid plates, Nerf bars, .....suspension, suspension, suspension! Watch the classifieds for some good deals on used parts and you can save some money!

You need to split the cases to properly replace them. Buy yourself a Clymers manual for your banshee ....run around $30 from a site sponsor. I believe there is a write up somewhere on here with pics doing a complete rebuild. Not a difficult job but a little time consuming. Basic tools, torque wrench, flywheel puller, new seals/gaskets, and some 3bond sealant should get you back up and running. Also search for a how to on building a leak down tester to make sure there isn't any ait leaks after you seal the cases back. Good luck and welcome to BHQ!

Kenda kutters on my 4mil ....seem to hook pretty decent in the trails. Much better than the razr tires I had before.

I have pwk 35 air strykers on mine but I was realy rich before jetting down. It would pull hard until 5-6....then it would just fall on its face. I had to slip the clutch to get it to hit and pull. Do a chop and take a look at the plugs...that will tell you what's going on as far as the main jet. If it has TORS on it I'd definitely get rid of it though as already mentioned above.

I'm sure its quite rough just by speaking to the moron on the phone....the add was spelled " banschee" lmao.

Looking through the local classifieds I found a banshee without a motor. The idiots pulled the motor and cut some of the frame out. It has all the plastics(white) wiring, arms, shocks....basically everything but a motor, front wheels, and a ruined frame. I have another frame for it so its not a big deal. Does $250 seem high? I called wanting the wiring but he won't separate it. Almost thought about building another banshee on the low budget plan although I don't need one. Or just part it out. Does it sound like a decent deal or just RUN from it. No title either.

Bought a kick starter from him....item was in great condition and shipping was super fast. Thanks again.

I have the flexx bars on my ltr for mx ....best bars I've ever used! I currently have pro tapers on the banshee. They're not bad but when i find a good deal on some flexx bars the pro tapers will be gone!

I think I have 4 155 jets out in the garage....i wouldn't mind trading for some 165's. Pm me tomorrow and i will check tomorrow afternoon when I get in from work.

But if you do decide to split the arms and shocks up please pm me and give me a shot on the Roll's....thanks.

I run a 3/2 offset. Laeger and Roll are my top pics also. I just wanted some +3's lol. Both are very nice arms though. Guess I will send my Elka's off to Matt ....get the shee dialed in perfect and rock my Laeger's. Good luck with the sale.....someone's gonna get a sweet setup!

SOLD.....thanks

I run elka triple rates I believe they were 18 1/2 or 19 1/2 eye to eye. Honestly its probably not worth it...all the money to switch out just to gain an inch of width.

Pics sent.

I have some Laeger +2 long travel arms....would you do any trading for your +3 arms ? Mine have fresh ball joints too....if not how much just for the arms? Thanks.

Also forgot to mention it includes all hardware...clips, nuts, spacers... I honestly think its a durablue, but not 100% sure.

I have an extended axle for sale....I'm not sure if its a durablue or a g-force to be honest. It has no markings on it. I'm not for sure if it has a slight bend to it or if my wheel was slightly bent on the left rear. I ran it like this in the trails without a problem. Also has a two piece lock nut...the outside aluminum threaded piece has a few jacked up threads on it( the part you put a wrench on to tighten the axle down). Just wanted to be honest. I switched to a lonestar and its just sitting in the garage wasting space. I will try to post up some pics...I need Photobucket 101 because I suck with it. I can gladly email pics though. I'm asking $70 shipped.

Bump....need this thing gone.