justinkk2005

Thanks alot man I have a 25 pilot, I did put the idle screws all the way in and it idles for about 4 seconds and then dies but if i keep it revved up it runs fine. The needle definitely helped it out alot, i'm going to put it on the top position today and see if that helps

slides were right, the needles were at the main bottom position, is that rich? I moved them up to the 2nd position and it helped a whole lot, still bogs and falls in on itself 1/4---1/2 throttle though >.< wot it runs awesome

oh yea, that's all good i made sure of that. I had to make one but it's a perfect fit.

idk how to check float bowls or how to adjust on them, can you enlighten me on this? The crossover tube is in place, it's a generic boost bottle of some sort. thanks for replying though man, i appreciate it.

unplugged that box, made no difference.

thanks man, i'll try that with the idle, but what about 1/8 throttle - 3/4 WOT it runs good after it sputters a tad

So my day started out with the motion pro TORS removal kit (with idle kit). I drilled and tapped the first carb easy, everything threaded normally. Went to do the 2nd carb and the tap run out the threads to big so then I had to buy a helicoil kit to fix it..... that finally worked out. So I replaced the air box with k&n pods so I figured I should go up with my pilot and mains, so I went to a 30 pilot and a 310 main setup: 03 banshee .10 bore vforce 3s toomey t5s port cleanup (nothing big, just cleaned it up a bit...done by a member on the forum, done a GREAT job) elevation: 800 - 2000 ft (ride in a mountainous area) So I put both carbs back on and the threads on the idle kit are just like 3 turns out but the slides are all the way closed all most, don't know if that's right or not but I know that's a part in this i know. I cannot get it to idle without holding the throttle a bit (which has alot to do with the screws i know), but when i do get it to idle by holding the throttle a tad it sounds like shit. I mean it sounds like a choked out weedeater. I can ride it and when i hold it WOT it runs good after spitting a sputtering a bit, but as soon as you let off it runs horrible like it's getting to much fuel. So I went down a 27.5 pilot and left the 310 main, still done the same thing went down to a 25 pilot and a 290 main, still the same shit. I haven't messed with the air screws because it ran so good before, but what are your suggestions. It's acting like it's not getting enough air but you'd think with the pods it would be getting more than with the airbox. Any ideas? Is there a box to unhook from the TORS? It don't have the parking brake setup, that was gone when i got it. I found a box that I could plug in under the gas tank that was near the stearing stem a little, I unplugged that and it changed nothing.

This is still up, guy hasn't replied yet. Will pay tonight for foam filters.

pm'd

Looking for a set of pod foam filters for the stock carbs, I want to replace my annoying airbox.

meaning the pistons have alot of slack in them when it's TDC (i take my hand and try to wiggle the piston) The rings were flawless and not worn at all, so i'm assuming the cylinder just wore which is unusual. No numbers on the top of the piston, no nothing. It was stock pistons. I'm getting F.A.S.T to do my work i'm pretty sure, word is he knows his stuff

www.farmandsandtoys.com He's a great guy and will answer your questions almost instantly. Email him: [email protected]

Well guys, I took it apart today and you could shake the pistons inside the cylinder, the rings were perfectly fine the cylinder was just wore. Stock bore though, who do you recommend to do the boring? I'm going to go .20 over Also what brand of pistons do you recommend? I've heard Wiseco's are notorious for shattering/cracking.

Would not removing both plugs make a difference? I just done one cylinder at a time with the other plug in. I know it didn't make a difference changing the fitting/holding it wide open throttle in the readings.

around 700 FT

Went out and got the correct size fitting that is the length of the spark plug and done the check again with the throttle wide open, same readings. 93 on both cylinders. TIme for a overhaul

I completely forgot about that, I feel stupid. I have a turbo civic and I just done a compression check on it before I boosted it and I can't believe I forgot about that. (holding the throttle wide open part) I guess i'll redo it today and let u guys know what's up then.

Elevation, i'm not sure. Eastern Kentucky in the appalachian mountains. I'm taking the bike out and getting it warmed up and then pulling one plug out, checking that, and then the other. The Actreton or w/e it's called and I don't think it's got threads on it that long but I do tighten it up to where I know it's sealed. I'm affraid of messing with the air screws considering it runs so well when it's warm.

Only my second post and I searched and found a similar post but it didn't answer my question. 03 Banshee: T5's VF3's Toomey jetted boost bottle (looks haha) k&n clamp on (what's your opinion on these?) I done a compression check after the bike warmed up and it was 93 on both sides, but the banshee rips really hard. The bike keeps progressively fouling plugs more and more on the right side and the ride side smokes 100x more on startup than the left, but after it warms up they smoke evenly. I was thinking the crank seal but it's not using any gear oil, so then I thought of the carb being off sync. Both carbs are in sync, it doesn't make any since to me because the fuel is filtered as well and I clean the air filter everyday I ride it. I figured these compression numbers were low and I figured I could pickup some power by doing an overhaul. I've never done a compression check on a banshee, but from reading on here 120 seems fit for a stock bore/stroke/head.

Thanks for the awesome responses, I've heard good things about BansheeHQ. I have a turbo honda civic and I have experiences that are not so pleasant from other forums lol I'll post up pictures later, I did order a clutch cover gasket. Toomey, Fluidyne, Boss, or China Radiator? What do you guys suggest. On a semi-tight budget

I didn't order a clutch cover gasket :/ I already have some Belray gear oil

Hey guys, this is a great looking site and i've been searching on here for dayssssss before I actually joined and getting my questions answered. I recently traded my YFZ 450 to an 03 Banshee MINT Condition with toomey t5's, perfect jetting, and great looking plastic. I just installed some VF3's in it today and it really pepped it up a little But anyway, my question is this, i've been reading alot about the stock water pump (plastic propellers) breaking/melting so as a precautionary thing I went ahead and ordered the Pro Design Mega Propeller for it (and it's nice to know it makes it run a little cooler) and I also add engine ice for an added level of protection. So here is my question: Do I have to take the whole clutch cover off to access the water pump or can I just take off the water pump cover? I've never tore into one of these things before so i'm pretty clueless.