justinkk2005

sure thing man, I will tomorrow evening... pm me your #

Runs flawlessly, it has been sitting in my building for around 6 months. It was brand new off a tractor supply go kart but I swapped it out to a 13 hp motor and this is a take off part. The only thing it needs is a new muffer, the stock one vibrated off and I have no idea where it went too believe it or not. It runs fine though, no smoke, oil changed every couple of rides with mobil 1. Will take $125 shipped to anywhere within an honest range of Zip code: 41501 (Kentucky) and $135 for further places, shipping will be high on this thing. Thanks again

I don't have any pictures, just ordered a Noss head for my setup.... Just taken off the banshee today. The head was just milled about a month ago.. Will take $40 Shipped! Thanks again, guys. Paypal: [email protected] I have a reputable ebay account to back up my rep. Ebay Name: justinkk2005

I have an ebay oversized radiator off of one of the Florida sellers that I saw mentioned on here once. My question is, I relocated the over flow tank to the front nose. Whenever I ride and stop for a while, i notice I cannot see any coolant in the radiator. WHen I start it up though it starts flowing fine and I can see it, when I shut it off it goes back down again. I drained the over flow tank and filled the radiator back up again and it seems to push a certain amount in the tank and then stops. It always gets down to the level to where I can't see it but once I start it I can. Is this normal? I done a bit of searching and could not find a topic about this

I'd rather sell everything as a whole man, sorry. The jets are added extra to help sell

minus the throttle cable and the outwears are not that clean anymore, but this was around 2 months ago before i installed

$90 Shipped, I ended up getting a nice set of PWK's cheap. i gave nearly that for just the pods.

Up for sale obo 2 stock carbs with a variety of jets TORS Removed Idle Screws installed Brand new, only around 10 hours of riding time K&N Pods with outwears (authentic K&N's) Jets included (2) 350 mains (2) 340 Mains (2)330 Mains (2) 25, 27.5, and 30 pilots I will also throw in 2 spare carbs I use for parts $120 shipped to you OR BEST OFFER

couldn't I just buy 2 YZ 85 carbs? they're the exact same from what I can tell

Thanks guys, and my stock crank isn't welded so I am assuming i'll be having to replace a crank soon anyway so if I do i'll just go with a 4 mil. I'm sure a 4 mil would like those 28 mm's better anyway so he's right about it setting me up for the future. I heard they're easier to tune as well? I appreciate the timely response!

a friend of mine and he's a member on here. to the guy above, different pistons would really be worth all that hassle/trouble? I thought about the dune port, how much hp increase is that worth? The only problem is I may do a 4 mil build later on, will that port job affect that in the future? I was assuming it would

Before I go and spend $300+ dollars on a pwk 28 switch, would it be worth while? Altitude: 800-1500 Setup: .10 over bore w/ stock cylinders port cleanup +4 timing head milled .30 (stock head) vforce reeds t5's k&n pods w/ no airbox 145 psi of compression If the gains aren't really that much, I don't plan on doing this. But I have 350 as main jets and I figured that was pretty huge and I thought my setup was just begging for more. What do you guys think? What jetting would you recommend and where do I pick up a nice set of these (other than ebay)

shaved the head .30 thousandths, installed the timing plate with +4... 145 psi of compression in both cylinders and this thing will haul ass, best $60 i've ever spent.

thanks man, i'll try it this weekend

What do you guys suggest for that? Idle - around 1/4 throttle it does bog down and sputters until you open it up. After you let off the fuel and stop for a idle, and then get back into it, it sputters a tad bit and then opens up. The pilot is 25, needle on 3rd position. Air screw is 1 1/2 turns out But back to the original question lol Shave the head .20 or .30? Thanks guys, You guys are a lot cooler than the guys on d-series.org lol (had a turbo honda, guys on there were dousches)

Yea man, Appalachian mountains... does suck with the jetting though. I appreciate the tips. It sound healthy to you? I know I don't have a helmet on but I do usually wear one.

Nice man, thanks! Yea I would def. rather have it a bit rich than lean, I'd rather replace spark plugs than rings anyday.

I just replaced the intake boots, got rid of the crappy boost bottle for a crossover tube, replaced the little clamp things, and the whole 9 yards. What is the best way to do plug chops? I mean I couldn't really tell much after those 3 pulls. I've saw on the jetting forum where people were posting their setups and some people had 370/380 mains with the same setup as me.

I done 3 pulls 1st through 6th gear, the plug was dry with 340 mains. I am needing help with the bottom end though, currently 25 pilots but i'm giong to got to 27.5 to see if it fixes the problem. What do you recommend the needle being set on? Elevation: 800-2000ft

I appreciate it man, yea if it does go down i'll just have an excuse for a 4 mil Do you recommend going .20 or .30 over for pump gas? I just added 350 main jets to my setup and i'm still running a little lean i do believe, slight bog on take off, hopefully this head milling and +4 timing may give me some more thump on bottom end.

Hey guys, I am currently debating on my next bang for the buck while not spending a lot. I was curious if it would be safe where my crank isn't welded to mill the head .20 (stock head) and advance the timing +4? See signature for details

nothing?

pm sent on the Carbs

bump please.. i'm dieing to figure this out lol

Here guys i gotta video of it, I filed down the carb again and the idle screws go WAY in, almost to the middle. I know thats not the problem http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eah8S0_QwIw