screaminshee

If running a 36 rear am I incorrect in saying that you need a different sprocket hub??? And also is it best to be 6th going into the turns cause im in 4th all around a 1/2 mi. but I'm in top 2 every time or in 1st walking away. Depending on which series Im racing with. I have truthfully never even got my shee into 6th and went into 5th once when we had 440' strait at a race. So is it really best to be in top gear pinned. All the lame ass 450 riders I race with are baffled that they are WFO in 5th popping those pieces of shit every few weeks and i have 2 gears to go while they are pinned. Do i need to change my gearing then??

How many pairs of "raw" do you have? And do you have raw grips and pegs or just one or the other? Thanks!

If your going that route then really anything would do the job. If you have a stock length swing arm your going to blow the tires no matter what. They'll just roto-till around the track unless your motor is stock and you dont have a rippin bansh!

I would start with getting 21' fronts and 18" rears. Kold Kutters and the biggest name brand but any 1" course thread stud will do just as good as any. For rear tires one stud per knob, if running the standard normal cheng shin. The fronts depends on the pattern but make sure you have some on the outside edges of the tires because they get the most pressure when heading into a turn and if you do not have enough studs in the front then when you go into the turn you will slide out of the turn instead of sticking the corner and powering thru it.

What do you mean by raw sets? Both pegs and both grips, and throttle top and stem top?

How heavy are the pegs and grips??

:rotflmao:

Also i assume that these cases are from an 87 shee??

What condition are the cases in?

any pics or pm me some if you could or pm me for email. Thanks!

Oh yea with the SWIRA. But yes CWIRA run oval and gp classes. HUGE turnout. I really suggest coming to a CW race. I can assure you it will blow any other ice racing in the state, if not other states, out of the water, or off the ice

For sure!! You guys will definitely have to come to a race again! Those rubber boys do haul some ass but I dont think ive seen many things faster than the open studded classes here!!! But again I highly encourage you to try a race or two out. I promise you wont be disappointed.

What kind, condition, pics? Need more details!

If anyone lives near or in good ol' Wisconsin find an available weekend in January or February and grab some of your buddies and come to one of these races. They are very well put on that is fun and competitive. Pay - outs on both days! If you can compete and think you are fast come check it out!! NWIRC - On Saturdays January 2012 January 7, 2011 – Rice Lake January 14, 2011 – Shell Lake at Klopps bar January 21, 2011 – Bloomer January 28, 2011 – Lake Wissota at The View February 2012 February 4, 2011 – Bloomer February 11, 2011 – Lake Wissota at The View Season Championship! February 18, 2011 – Rice Lake February 25, 2011 – Lake Wissota at The View CWIRA - On Sundays January 2012 8th - Triple Crown #1 Portage Ice Wars Amherst 15th - Neillsville 22nd - Rock Dam 29th - Triple Crown #2 Wausau 525 Rib Mountain February 2012 5th - Tomah Mid-Season Championship 12th - Triple Crown #3 Fire On Ice Weyauwega 19th - Dexterville 26th - Fremont

Hey where in the UP you going to race!? Boysen reeds are basically top notch when it comes to reeds. I would recommend the V-Force 3 Reeds. Thats what I run. For rear tires the only way to go is 18" cheng shins. The square knobs. Front tires like said is a personal preference but most use Holeshot MXR6 I believe is what they are called. The only thing is that it is best to run a 21" front tire as it raises the front and helps with traction. As for exhaust the pro circuit is a great idea. I would really recommend getting aftermarket exhaust as it will make a noticeable difference. Other fair priced exhaust would be Toomey, either T-5 which is said to be better or T-6's. Also available is the FMF but those are not supposed to be that good although anything is better than stock. As for other tips I would highly suggest a sway - bar. It is almost a must. Also nerf bars and a tether kill switch are mandatory for most racing. To save money you should check your studs every time you come into the pits. You wont pull a stud so youll hold air and wont ruin your tire. For studs Kold Kutter is highly used. DO NOT USE 1/2" STUDS! They are not long enough to hold in the tire and will rip out instantly. Especially in rear tires. And stay away from fine threaded studs as they dont hold in the tire as well as the course thread does and lastly any gold stud is usually better than black ones. Good Luck!! Last season I raced a dash for cash in the UP so let me know where your going to race!!

Is this just a drag race?? Because that does look pretty dam cool!

How much for the cylinders??

NWIRC - On Saturdays January 2012 January 7, 2011 – Rice Lake January 14, 2011 – Shell Lake at Klopps bar January 21, 2011 – Bloomer January 28, 2011 – Lake Wissota at The View February 2012 February 4, 2011 – Bloomer February 11, 2011 – Lake Wissota at The View Season Championship! February 18, 2011 – Rice Lake February 25, 2011 – Lake Wissota at The View CWIRA - On Sundays January 2012 8th - Triple Crown #1 Portage Ice Wars Amherst 15th - Neillsville 22nd - Rock Dam 29th - Triple Crown #2 Wausau 525 Rib Mountain February 2012 5th - Tomah Mid-Season Championship 12th - Triple Crown #3 Fire On Ice Weyauwega 19th - Dexterville 26th - Fremont You should come check it out some weekend!! Also check out their websites - nwircracing.com & cwira.com Saturdays at NWIRC are pretty relaxed, not a huge amount of racers, but extremely fun! Sundays at CWIRA are VERY competitive, VERY large turn out, and is for a true ice racer. There are many fast guys here!

You Betcha! Central and Northern Wisconsin! If anyone is around the area be sure to stop by and try out a race or two!!

Thanks Guys! But yea I wont be jumping this quad at all. It would just be strictly for a flat clay track so I can keep busy during the summer between Ice Racing. Do either of you, or anyone, know of some good aftermarket dealer that sells or makes quality j-arms?

Hey guys I had a quick question. I have a few banshees and one happens to be a 89 and is J-Arm obviously. The other two are used for ice racing during the winter and this 87 is kind of just a parts quad that is laying around. I do not do much during the summer other than work and there are near by flat tracks and was thinking of taking this third shee and turn it into a flat track clay quad but to be different thought of using j-arms. So my question is would this even be worth it or is this just a dumb idea. Please weigh in on this but please dont just say a arms, thats why they changed to them. I understand that using a-arms would be the more logical and probably the better route but wanted to try something different because I find it hard to believe that running j-arms could be that big of a difference and affect how well you can finish so thats why I am asking for your guy's input. Thanks!!

I know this may be a dumb question because I doubt anyone would actually have or know of one but does anyone know of a Yamaha TZ 750 for sale? Id much rather just have the motor rather than the entire bike but either I would be interested in. Thanks guys! I hope someone can surprise me!!

I figured thats what you meant i wasnt sure cause i just didnt know if that was even possible a .01 bore but i guess you can

Do you mean bored .02 over as in the first stage of boring??

Hey guys. I was looking into setting up a 4 mil motor but had a question. Whats the main difference between using 110 rods and 115 rods? Is it the fact that with longer rods the movement of the piston is less, as in from side to side and the chance of the piston turning on its side in the cylinder is reduced? I have no idea if this is even close to true, thats why im asking. But also what is yours guys preference and why? Please dont just say one or the other unless you have reasoning. Thanks!!