jamaha51

Ok, a little update. I picked up an eBay cdi just to test and it did the same thing, so I switched back to the stock cdi. I switched coils out next and it made an improvement. It's actually rideable now and the first time I felt what a 4 mil is like 😀 It still has that mid end big, but it's not too bad to get past it. My next step is to reroute the wiring harness and make sure all grounds and connections are solid.

Man, I must be retarded because I would ride my bone stock banshee over a yfz450 any day. I honestly don't feel like the 450 handles much better than a banshee. The shocks are garbage too. Ridiculously stiff and still bottom as easy as stock banshee shocks.

I didn't hear anything shaking them, but it also did this with another set of pipes so I am almost positive it's not them. I wish it was something real easy like that.

Ok, I am picking up a coil and cdi and will see what those do for me. I also need to check the pickup coil gap, forgot about that. I did check the silencers and I know that they aren't plugged. I will let y'all know what happens hopefully sometime soon.

I have had this problem ever since I got my shee a few years ago. I got it in a trade not running, replaced the stator (not oem, but it has been going strong and I have tried another stator with no change) and then it would run on both cylinders. It had a nasty mid end "bog" that I figured was a jetting issue. After trying messing with the jetting on the stock carbs with no difference, I switched to a single 34mm keihin pj carb with exciter intake manifold. It did the exact same thing even after messing with the jetting on that carb as well. After that I figured it was because it had 85psi compression and probably wore out reeds. This past weekend I just got the bike back together after putting in a 4 mil crank and some mildy ported cylinders for it along with brand new reeds from TDR. After doing my heat cycles, I go to take it out and it does the same exact thing except now it is basically unrideable. Before, I could just clutch it and could ride it just fine. With my new setup it seemed to just exaggerate this flat spot. Basically low-mid rpms, you hit this rpm where it will not get past it. It doesn't matter if you vary the throttle, it just is stuck in the same rpm. If you clutch it, you can sometimes get past that stage and it will rev out. I have switched literally everything on this bike from when I get it except the cdi and coil. That leads me to believe it is one of those. It feels like the timing just goes wack and that prevents the rpms from going anywhere, but I have never heard of that. Also, I leak down tested it before and after the rebuild and it holds 6 lbs for 6 minutes so there are no airleaks and I do know how to jet a bike so it is not that. If it helps this is my exact setup: Redline Racing 4 mil play port, 65mm wiseco 795 pistons, hot rods crank, 20cc domes with cool head, single 34mm pj, fmf fatty pipes with stock silencers, Tony Doukas modified reeds. Thanks

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We need videos of that!

How much for the stator?

So what I am trying to say is that because they can but a banshee system on the xs650, you should be able to use one of those stators out of the list of bikes in the link in a banshee right? This is the stator I am talking about http://www.amazon.com/ElectroSport-ESG871-Lighting-Stator-Banshee/dp/B0031727XM and was wondering if a stator like this that physically work with the banshee flywheel http://www.ebay.com/itm/181570203720?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT would be able to be used on a banshee relatively easy.

Ok I have been looking at stator rewinding being the cheap ass that I am and I am trying to rewind a stock stator. If that works out I will try a 200w rm stator I have that crapped out on me too. My question though is has anybody tried using a 3 phase stator off some of the road going bikes. I found this: http://www.xs650chopper.com/2011/01/xs650-banshee-charging-system-swap/ and there are a bunch of different stators that work with the banshee flywheel. I dont know a whole lot about electrical things but the electrosport ignition for banshees is a 3 phase stator right and does that hook right up to stock banshee electrical system? If somebody could help me out that would be awesome and maybe there is a cheaper alternative to oem stators

He didn't say http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=174429

Ok awesome! I found a thread for a single pwk35 and they were saying about 45 pilot and 155 main with a eek or eej needle. Is the difference just because of the carbs?

For other people reading this thread it ended up being a bad stator. Replaced the stator and ran great, thanks for all the help.

Like the title says I am trying to figure out where to start for jets. All I have done is a exciter 440 intake with a single pj34 carb and fmf fatty pipes. I am at 8000ft in elevation so I doubt anybody has an idea for this elevation haha but I could go off what someone has done at a lower elevation it will just be on the rich side.

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Well it looks like they are some dg pipes. Thanks for the help

Well judging by pictures I dont think it is either one. It is definitely more of a top end pipe if that helps at all.

Like the title says I am looking for a little help figuring out what pipes I have. They do not have any markings on them so any help would be appreciated.

Thanks! I will look into that tomorrow.

I looked but didnt see any issues with the wiring. I didnt switch the float bowls but what would that do?

So did a leak down test and it held 6.5psi steady. So now I have no idea what it might be. Any input?

The mains were both tight when i went through it yesterday. Will double check though

I just got a banshee on a trade the other day. The right cylinder would cut out when it hit the powerband so I started checking it out. The tors has been cut out, the cylinders are within 3 psi of eachother, switched sparkplug wires, and the reeds are decent (a couple pedals have a tiny gap). I went through the carbs and adjusted the throttle cable so its even. Its all stock besides the pipes and no airbox. After I went through it i did a couple 1st through 6th passes up the street and it seemed to run good. I shut it off for a few minutes then fired it back up and it started cutting out and it just got worse the more i ran it. So go back out this morning and its still cutting out bad. So i check the plug gap (running br8es'), adjust the airscrews and the idle and it ran better but still cut out at high rpms. I do a plug chop(plugs were a nice brown) and switch the plugs. Doesnt seem to help. Its really starting to frustrate me cuz it will run ok one minute then cut out the next. Im thinking airleak but im not really sure?