brock42

I reinstalled the 30 pilots and at 2 turns out it boggs off idle. If I run the needle in until seated and barley crack the needle back open the rev gets better and the off idle bog is almost gone. The pipes seem to have somewhat of a pop to them. Don't know if this matters or not. If I back the air screw way out the pop starts to go away. I took it on a ride and it pulls hard from about 1/4 to full throttle but seems like it's loading up and wants so foul out at low rpm.

I didn't install new reeds just replaced the pipes and added airbox. I tried it with the full air filter setup on and at 2.5 turns out on the air screw it boggs out. If I start to turn the air screw back closed the throttle response starts to sharpen up but once I get closed it dies out.

Ok. That's what I was wondering I'll try that thank you.

Just went back over everything I reinstalled the 27.5 and she's idling ok now but I have my air screws 1/8-1/4 turn out from seated and it is bogging a Lil off idle and the idle hangs just a fuzz.air box is not installed yet

I tried both ways I removed all slack from cable and still the same problem like it's lean. If I pull the choke the idle will settle back down.

I set throttle wide open adjusted my slides until I got the dimples in the sight glass. Then set my air screws 1.5 turns out and my idle screw just touching the slides and I fire it up it's revving high enough to Max out my sync tool.

Figured I may have a air leak. I leak down tested and it held 6psi well over 10 min before I released pressure. My plugs are old I'm gonna try a new set tomorrow and see if that could have anything to do with it. I will have to pull the air box back off to sync carbs with the sync tool Correct

Do I need to have my airbox and filter on when I'm making my air screw adjustments.

It started and idled fine before the changes I just wanted t5s and to go back with the air box setup. If I hold my hand over the intake on the carbs and create a Lil suction it clears up and idles back down but when I move my hand it starts to rev up again.

Tors is removed and I have my idle screw barley making contact with the slide. I also have my cable adjusted so there is no tension on the cable. Previous owner had pods with 25 pilots and 220 mains. I think he was way lean however I changed exhaust and added the air box with pro flow filter and read up on jetting so decided to start with 300 main and 27.5 pilots and it's reving like it's lean but I also tried 30 pilots with the same outcome. I'm not sure if it matters but when I'm doing my adjusting I do not have the airbox on yet it's just straight into the carb so do I need to put the airbox and filter on to make these adjustments.

Just got done changing out DG pipes to toomey t5s. The previous owner had a pod setup and was running 25 pilots and 220 mains. I changed to the airbox with no lid and the k&n pro flow setup I installed 300 mains and 27.5 pilots to start my plug chop. First off it was a lil hard to start than the previous setup. it started and idled real high if I pulled the choke it would idle back down. I've checked the choke tube and made sure the slides are installed correct. My question is if I'm gonna be running the airbox and filter setup does it need to be installed while making these adjustments or can I get the mixture screw right and sync the carbs and then put the box on.

I just ordered a top end gasket kit hopefully that will fix the problem.

Just called and orderd a top end kid gasket kit hopefully that will get it fixed right.

Do I have any other options. Does the motor need to be pulled to replace the gasket.

Thought about that but the leak is on the inside where the two cylinders almost touch so it'll be hard to get in there. I may just pull the motor and throw a new gasket on. Just a pain if you know what I mean.

Compression is right at 120-125 in both cylinders. Stock motor.

I'm in the process of putting a exhaust on my 2005 banshee and I decided I would do a leakdown test on it. I pumped it up to 6 psi and after 6 min I had a Lil under 5psi. I sprayed it down and found the leak it's leaking at the base of the jugs. What should I do should I pull the motor and replace the gasket or should I do a complete top end.

Gotcha thanks man.

Found out why the holes were siliconed. I got the carbs off and removed the silicone from the idle screw holes and both holes have a broken tap in them. I took it to work and got the taps out with a carbide endmill and re tapped the holes but the holes are waddled out and the screws are extremely loose. Would it hurt to drill the hole oversized and press in a plug and redrill and tap or should I just look for a new carb body.

Looking for a set of stock carbs reasonably priced.

Sounds good txt me pics when you do 205-496-0710

Yes for the stock carbs. Got to looking I'm gonna need the whole airbox mine is cracked and didn't notice it until now.

Looking for a couple airbox boots to connect the airbox to the carbs. Txt me 2054960710

I gotcha I'm gonna take them apart and do them the right way I was just curious thanks guys.

I'll try to get some pics this afternoon. The spare parts he gave me it had the idle screws in there but they weren't installed. I will have to pull the carbs off and see what I can see but is it necessary to install the idle screws.