patsbansh

thanks for the info i guess starting at 0 is better than wiping a top end, i'll see what happens and let you know

I'm running the 1/4 and at sea level. the number 3 curve is what was recommended with the adjustable curve maker dyna ignition and i have a programming kit for it but wanted to make a few passes to make sure everything was good before changing to my own settings

i need a good start point i have a dyna box with adjustable curves and i will be running alky. with this set up do i put the adjustable timing plate back to zero and let the computer take care of the timing? This is a 421 cub motor w 39 pwk's shearer oof's. If anyone is running something similar please let me know this is the final bit before test and tune. Thanks for all the help you guys have given so far, its been a long build and i'm so looking forward to this

Cascade innovations offers heat wrap sleeves for exhaust it is insulated i run them on my exhaust with my cub motor with 34's my carbs are straight up. i agree with the floats being off comment. fuel is the last thing you wanna rob these motors of. Hope this helps

No purpose just a money scheme and looks. A guy on here once told me it was the equivilent of a Roost Boost. No purpose exept a confidence builder. Just telling you what was told to me

just wanted to give you a thought here. that basket looks pretty chewed and it looks like it was filed once already. I had a shifting problem and wound up snapping a couple clutch cables due to the grooves in the basket from the clutch plates til i finally replaced it with a barnett with steel inserts. I have had it apart twice since then in the past 2 years and not a scratch or dent and i'm still on the same cable as well. Just a thought though

I absolutely swear by them. The last set i actually purchased from Patrs deopt on ebay. On my stock shee i have FMF pipes virgin cylinders with wiseco pistons, cool head w 22 cc domes, V Force 3's and a timing advance and i smoke all my buddies with boysen or stocks and they have bore jobs oversize pistons and the same pipes. i also run them on my asphalt shee with a 421 cub motor.

I had no idea that they would run at such a low compression. If you have access to another compression tester try again. i re ringed my buddy's 06 when it got down to 95 PSI and the second time it got down that low i ran a ball hone through the cylinders lightly just to clean them up and went with a 64mm wiseco prolite kit, if the cylinders don't need to be bored why do it, prolong the life. I have an 03 with 64mm stock cylinders a cool head, timing advance V Force 3 reeds and some other slight mods and it still rips and i have put alot of hours on it since i put virgin cylinders on 3 years ago and i still have 134 PSI as of a month ago

My buddy has a 350 with stock carbs converted to alky with a turbo on it. This bike is running way to rich it won't spool up the turbo. The needle is all the way down to the last clip in the slide, the power jets are closed to 1 turn out and the air screws are out at 2 1/2. the plugs read only on the metal strip above the electrode. my understanding is that the plugs will read 180 degrees when properly tuned . I really don't want to put a hole in the piston but the leaner i get the closer i get to it being right. The turbo has been starting to produce more boost the leaner i go but i am about out of adjustment without drilling another set of mains smaller. Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

Can someone please show me a picture of an alky plug out of a properly tuned bike. My buddy and i are trying to tune his alky 350 motor and i belive its too rich. However i don't want to put a hole in the pistons. The needle is all the way down on the clips in the slide, the air screw is 2 1/2 turns out and the power jet is only 1 turn out. The plugs only have black on the metal strip above the electrode. I was told that there would be black covering 180 degrees of the plug when it was running correctly. These are stock converted alky carbs that came from across the country. All info is welcome and appreciated

Thanks for the info it will definitely be helpful and what do you know, I learned something new yet again.

Complete Carb rebuild with entire jet cleaning, there have been alot of carb questions lately

Also are different head design domes interchangeable if so which has the flatter dome? If not what are others running that they like or would recommend and why? once again thanks

The 18cc was for more compression for a stronger hard out of the hole torquier motor the 24cc was lower compression for a smoother higher reving longer lasting motor. I'm running a Pro desidn cool head right now. Can you explain the squish band to me what it is what it does how to change it , Thanks all info is welcome and appreciated

If you could enlighten me about angle of what, what is my squish band and MSV, I would really appreciate it. I'm trying to get all the info i can.

I'm in jersey with a 64mm and i run 280's with the clip in the middle i have fmf fatty's and a K&N with sliced lid. Also i have V force 3 reeds cool head and a timing advance so there is alot to consider. I would buy a Clymer manual about $20 this will be your best friend. Always start big and work your way down in sizes its cheaper to replace fouled plugs than pistons. Me i would put the clip in the middle put 280's in it and adjust the air screw accordingly. If you have stock carbs you want the air screw to be about 2 turns out. If you have it at 3 turns out put bigger mains in If you have it in to 1 turn out you can go smaller if i'm not mistaken its been about 2 years since i have done this. Good luck keep updates

Also i swear by engine ice for coolant after all day in the sand quarry my bike would leak a little out of the oveflow til i started using th e engine ice. once again just a suggestion

About 3 years ago i rebuilt my everyday shee I put on stock unbored cylinders and wiseco pistons a wiseco stock crank with stock length rods V force 3 reeds an adjustable timing plate and a Prodesign coolhead with 22cc domes and FMF pipes. since i have done that i have replaced gears a transmission output shaft sprockets chains an a arm bars and clutches. About a month ago i did a compression test and after 3 years of beating the dog snot out of it i still have a little over 130PSI of compression. Just my experience with keeping one close to stock. I have never been beat by another quad that was in my class. Raptors 660 Honda 450Rs even a couple banshees with work( but not too much work) hope this was helpful Good Luck

I don't know where you are located but I'm in NJ. There is a guy that i buy all my used parts from for my trail shee when i break something. PM him NYUK he is on here he most definitely has 4 or 5 laying around. Just a suggestion

I rebuilt my last one. i mean why buy someone elses used one and not know how long it has been lying around. l bought a rebuild kit for mine about a year n a half ago and have had no trouble, plus you know what you got when you are done. Good luck with it hope this helped

when i got my first banshee i bought a clymer manual they cost about $20 it will be the best 20 you ever spend. If you are looking to rebuild it there are many places that sell these rebuild kits, has it ever worked? sometimes bleeding them can be a bear. If it has no fluid leaking out when you detatch the line from the caliper, i use an eye drop bottle to force the fluid through to begin the bleeding process. there is a rubber boot on the bottom of the master and a snap ring that holds everything in place, once that is removed the whole assembly slides out. check the plunger on the inside for dry rot and rust. make sure the spring is good and the inside of the cylinder is clean.

I had to replace my float needles and seats to stop my fuel leak when not running. mine to this day leaks when on 2 wheels or during sharp hill climbs. Hope this helped. Call Jeff over at FAST and he will be able to put you right in the vicinity of where you should be with the jets he has helped me within only having to adjust my air screw.

your pilot jet may be clogged in the right carb this is what controls your throttle up to 1/4 open. i had a similar problem where at 1/2 to wide open the bike ran great but at lower throttle it was only running on 1 cylinder. Look into the intake side of the carb it will be in the lower part of the opening. when you say brake pump do you mean the caliper (at the disc) or master cylinder (at the foot pedal)? Hope this helps get you running again.

Thats a fair price and the design will keep stuff from sitting in there. When i put one on mine about 3 years ago to replace the stock one i bent, it looked the same except i wound up drilling my own holes. I paid a little more than that though and i still have the same one on my everyday shee today. Even if it is some guy making them in their basement everybody has to start somewhere. As far as a disk stock is time tested and pads i have always run EBC. Good luck with everything

Thanks for the lesson i had no idea. but thinking about it all those factors would make sense. How finicky are these motors, so even the base gasket could change the port timing ever so slightly? After i get it back and on I'll be sure and check it let you know and write it down in my notebook. Thanks again