pmieras

If you use the correct size drill bit, you shouldn't run into the issue with cracking anything. 1. Make sure to use the correct drill bit. Put something into the slide opening to prevent damaging the other side once you go through. 2. Make the tap is tappered. Makes it easier to start for a through hole application. 3. Use some form of cutting oil. WD40, motor oil, trans fliud, etc. It's soft aluminum so it's not a big deal.

What are the shocks setup for???

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-BLASTER250-YFZ-450-YFZ-450-350-BANSHEE-SHOCKS-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a6923da1cQQitemZ250872060444QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Saw these on Ebay. Seems to good to be true. Anyone know anything about them? They look nice.

I think you have too much going on. Too many variables. Removing the airbox will probably require rejet across the entire range (pilot, main, etc). I would just focus on one thing at a time.

Saw one of your old posts and it seems this has been an issue for a bit. I believe I read that it idled better with the choke on. So with that, I do the following, one at a time to only introduce one new variable at a time: 1. Adjust air screw in. You mentioned you were at 2 turns out. Reset it to about 1/2 to 3/4 turns out and move out from there but only in about 1/2 turn increments or so. 2. If you don't see any improvements doing this put to 1 turn out and leave it there. 3. Now play with you pilot.

On the air screw i would say 3/4 to 1 turn out. I've seen them out as far as 1.5 to 2 without issues. It all depends, each ride is a little different. Does it idle better with the choke on?

I would say that if it's an idle problem focus on the pilot jet and air screw. Remember, at idle your on the pilot to about 1/4 throttle, needle from 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, and main from 3/4 to WOT. Assuming you have good compression, clean air filter, and no leaks anywhere. Does the idle improve when you pull out the choke? How do the plugs look? When you can get it to idle, even by feathering the throttle, shut it down and take a look at the plugs (just put in new ones, they're cheap). Should give you a little indication to the jetting. How does the spark look if you pull the plugs and ground it? Are you getting a nice bright blue spark? Will have to check this in the shade to be able to see it well.

Good Stuff... Thanks

If im understanding this right: Air screw out = more air = lean Air screw in = less air = rich Is it only at idle or across the whole throttle band?

What type of problems would you see by running it too far in? too rich? Does it affect across the entire throttle range?

So i've noticed that most of the time the air screw is adjusted to 1.5 - 2 turns out. Does anyone turn it in to make it rich? Say to 1 or 3/4 turns out? Just wondering cause I notice most of the time it's set 1.5 -2 turns out.

Wanted to take a minute and say thanks. Just completed my first topend rebuild on the Banshee and everything went like a dream. Replaced the clutch and installed the pancake bearing while I was waiting for the cylinders to come back from the machine shop. Also did the TORS removal. This site was extremely helpful in tracking down alll the information and answering any and all questions I had, either by searching posts or just starting a new one. Banshee runs like a dream. Started after about 3 kicks on the initial startup. Got the idle dialed in and started the breaking in process. Thanks to all who helped out with the questions, and thanks to the site as well...

Just wrapping up mine now. This is the first banshee top end I've rebuilt. Pretty easy, especially with the manual. I was able to get it taken apart in about 2 hours and was at the machine shop shortly therafter to get bored. It's all back together ready for break in. Only problem is it's 4am... 3 more hours and I will wake up the neighborhood.....

Is all you did was take it apart and clean it? Check that your pilot air jet is set right 1.5-2 turns out. Float heights good? Your carbs getting fuel? Also, there are other things other than the carbs that can keep you ride from running / idling. Do you have the TORS or no TORS? Carbs sync'd? Lots of things to look into. Get yourself a Clymer manual and start going down the list or need alot more info than you have provided to be able to help.

On the rebuild what did you do? Mods? etc... How's the pilot jet or the air screw? That's where I would start. Air screw should be turned out 1.5 to 2 turns out.