stringbeanbowler

Heel Guards are sold

I still have all this stuff. Please make an offer of any kind if you are interested.

I got these items from a friend who upgraded his banshee. They are from a 1997 Banshee 350. http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/stringbeanbowler/banshee002.jpg http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/stringbeanbowler/banshee003.jpg http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/stringbeanbowler/banshee004.jpg Stock Swingarm with Linkage: $50.00 Stock Shocks Set (3) Need rebuild on one of the fronts. Yellow coil overs: $100.00 Stock Axel Shaft and Carrier: $100.00 Stock Nerf Bars: $45.00 All best offers will be considered. They are all a bit heavy and shipping probably won't be a good idea. I live in Yorkville Illinois. Zip code 60560. Let me know if you are interested. [email protected]

I just decided to sell mine. Check it out at craigslist http://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/mcy/1521097869.html I'm 60 mins west of Chicago

I have a used dirty white rear piece. Will probably clean up well like my other one did.

I was going to make a joke about talking to a 10 year old with a half naked chick on the bottom of your posts, then I see his dad has one as his avatar!! Too funny. Must be a cool dad.

I'll try the Klotz first, and I have a feeling I will be happy and not want to try anything else. I have heard the name Klotz many times as a kid and never thought about trying it because I hear a lot about Amsoil nowadays. My dad used to race odysseys or however you spell it and I should have asked him. He's always grumpy though.

That's not the exact stuff I put in, but it's close. I put in http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mtg.aspx It is also for automobiles. I looked all over the web for an answer to what to put into the gear case and found a bunch of different answers. I figured thicker gear oil wouldn't hurt for my gears. : ] Besides, the problem existed before I bought the quad and before I changed the oil in it. That doesn't mean the previous owner knew what to put in though. The clutch doesn't slip...yet. I would like to hear more feedback on this oil issue, but it wouldn't hurt to run the oil you suggested since it's made for it. I definitely appreciate your input and the way you expressed it. Many thanks my friend

And, it looks like that nasty Rhino Liner. Yuck. Get Line-X 'ed instead

I vaguely remember seeing that case lever and I will definitely check it out. My garage is small and I have to store it standing up, so I have to drain the fuel from the tank and the carbs every time I finish riding. It's a big pain, but worth it to have a Banshee.

I really haven't got to ride it much. I found a LOT of little things wrong with it that took me a while to fix or adjust. And, I just got a motorcycle, so I've been riding that on the nice days. After 5 minutes of riding, it doesn't jump forward and stall when I shift from neutral to first at low idle, but It does lunge forward with the clutch pulled in and in second gear when I rev it up. My friend that I bought it from said to find neutral before I come to a complete stop. I'll try your tip too. I just put AMSOIL 75W-90 synthetic in, and It was around 55 degrees when I rode. Now it's 40 degrees. The reason I thought I might need a new clutch is because my friend that I bought it from said it was going out. So, I just figured that's why it was lunging forward a bit.

I'll try this first. It's the easiest. Then I'll look around inside, and at the arrows and try to figure it out. Thanks

When I say cold, I mean I let it idle for a minute or two and then I take off and ride easy for a few. Thanks all for the info, I appreciate it.

I KNOW WHERE I'M NOT GOING TO GET A BEDLINER OR COATING!!! : P LOL

I use the caps so I don't have to hit shift to capitalize words or sentences. It saves time, but because you made me laugh.....you win!!

DID YOU HAVE TO CHANGE ANY SETTINGS? AND, IS DOMINATOR WHAT I SHOULD BE USING, OR DO YOU RACE?

I HAVE A STANDARD CLUTCH SETUP AND SOMETIMES DO NOT USE THE CLUTCH. I JUST LET OFF THE THROTTLE, TIME IT JUST RIGHT AND UP SHIFT AT THE RIGHT TIME. IT IS VERY SMOOTH BUY MY FRIEND TOLD ME IT'LL WEAR OUT THE GEARS PREMATURELY. I CAN'T BE SURE, BUT I'D RATHER REPLACE THE CLUTCH INSTEAD OF THE GEARS, SO I NOW USE THE CLUTCH MORE OFTEN. : ] DOES YOUR BROTHER KNOW HOW TO SHIFT? DO YOU THINK HE MAY HAVE WORN OUT THE CLUTCH? IF NOT, THE GUY MAY JUST BE TRYING TO PIN THE BLAME ON SOMEONE ELSE FOR A PROBLEM HE KNEW ABOUT. I JUST READ THE RACE FUEL PART. DOES IT HAVE A LOT OF HORSEPOWER? MAYBE HE DIDN'T PUT A HEAVY DUTY RACE CLUTCH IN THERE AND THE ENGINE OVERPOWERED IT AND WORE IT OUT, BUT I AM JUST SPECULATING. I JUST KINDA THREW THAT ONE OUT THERE.

THERE IS ABOUT 3/16TH OF AN INCH OF PLAY AT THE CLUTCH HANDLE. SHOULD THERE BE ZERO? THIS IS GOOD NEWS BY THE WAY. I'D RATHER NOT FIX SOMETHING THAT IS NOT BROKEN!

I HAVE HEARD MANY DIFFERENT OPINIONS ON WHAT RATIO TO USE. WHAT DO YOU GUYS USE? I'M RUNNING 24:1 WITH AMSOIL INTERCEPTOR FULL SYNTHETIC

THE GUY I BOUGHT IT FROM (MY BUDDY) SAID THE YAMAHA MANUAL SAYS 24:1 AND HE RUNS IT 32:1. I PUT 24:1 WITH AMSOIL INTERCEPTOR AND IT RUNS GREAT. I THINK IT IS MOSTLY OPINION WHEN IT COMES TO THE RATIO, BUT HAS A LOT TO DO WITH THE JETTING, SETTINGS, ALTITUDE, AIR TEMPERATURE, AND MODIFICATIONS. THAT'S WHY THERE ARE SO MANY DIFFERENT ANSWERS TO THE QUESTION OF WHAT RATIO TO RUN. IF IT RUNS AWESOME AT 24:1, WHY WOULD I RUN IT AT 32:1 AND STARVE THE ENGINE OF OIL?

I HAVE A REGULAR CLUTCH SETUP AND I SOMETIMES DON'T USE THE CLUTCH TO SHIFT UP OR DOWN, I JUST LET OFF THE THROTTLE FOR A SECOND, POP IT UP AND FLOOR IT AGAIN, MUCH FASTER THAN USING THE CLUTCH. AM I DOING ANY DAMAGE? PREMATURE WEAR OF THE GEARS MAYBE? I GET MIXED OPINIONS FROM THE PEOPLE I ALREADY ASKED. THANKS

I MAY NEED A NEW CLUTCH. WHEN I FIRST TAKE OFF ON A COLD ENGINE, I PULL IN THE CLUTCH AND DROP IT INTO GEAR AND IT LUNGES FORWARD AND DIES UNDER LOW IDLE. I HAVE TO REV IT UP TO TAKE OFF ON THE FIRST RUN. AFTER IT WARMS UP IT'S FINE. ALSO, WHEN I HAVE IT IN GEAR WITH THE CLUTCH IN AND I REV IT UP IT SLIGHTLY LUNGES FORWARD ON A WARM ENGINE. IT IS ALSO HARD TO FIND NEUTRAL WITH IT RUNNING AND AT A COMPLETE STOP JUST AFTER RIDING. EVERYTHING ELSE SEEMS FINE, NO POWER LOSS OR SLIPPING THAT I KNOW OF. IS THIS A SIGN OF NEEDING A NEW CLUTCH SOON? IF SO, WHAT IS A GOOD RELIABLE CLUTCH COMPANY FOR GENERAL RIDING? ALSO, HAVE YOU HEARD OF HAVING TO BUY A NEW CLUTCH IF YOU SWITCH BRANDS OF GEAR OIL? ANY INFO HERE WOULD HELP. I PLAN ON DOING THE WORK MYSELF. WHEN I WAS A YOUNG LAD MY DAD HELPED ME CHANGE THE CLUTCH IN A BLASTER, AND I AM MECHANICALLY INCLINED SO IT SHOULDN'T BE A PROBLEM. I HEARD IT ONLY TAKES 2 HOURS. THANKS IN ADVANCE. BEAN

I have never had a carb with the tors on it. What do they do and why doesn't my used Banshee have them? Thanks.

Why not interceptor by AMSoil? What is the difference other than for racing / leisure? By the way, AMSoil is the best oil on the planet! So many people tell me it lowers their engine temp on motorcycles and say they notice a small power gain in powersports. I have it in everything I own. They don't want to be a large company and don't sell to major auto parts chains unless they are privately owned, so you can't find it everywhere. Only knowledgeable people sell it.

Also, check the air screws on the left side of the carbs. They are right next to the air tube. Gently screw them in and count the amount of turns it take til they stop. They should be the same on both sides. Don't forget to screw them back out. Start there first. It's the easiest to do.