m4f1050

The stator is reading 11ohms on red/green and 104ohms on redwhite/greenwhite. I am going to check my grounds again, just in case. But 11ohms is a bit too low isn't it? I couldn't losen the nut so I couldn't take the flywheel out. I have to take the banshee to my old house (my parents live there now) I have the compressor and impact wrench over there...

So if none of the caps read any resisitance the spark still jumps and it fires anyways, right? That shouldn't cause no spark situation I am having. Everything leads to bad Stator.. Specially being a Ricky Stator that everybody complaints about them.

Can I test the CDI and the Stator with an oscilloscope? Is there a pulse on the Orange wire? What about the current on the Stator, can it be measured? What would be the voltage on these? And what points should I test? Thanks! EDIT: Here is a cheap oscilloscope that might do the trick, not sure though, can someone confirm? Thanks! http://cgi.ebay.com/190466403499

Well, well... Manual was wrong... I found this post and read it.... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133650 Thing is,... I have 2 coils and both read - - (open circuit..!) Could both be bad? I have the Ohmmeter set to 20k so I should be able to read something... Also, can I use an osciloscope to measure a "pulse" on the Orange cable to test the CDI? If I can, what is the voltage of this pulse? Thanks! EDIT: Ok, here are my findings.... Removed all 4 boots and both coils read 5.7k ~ 5.8k (so that's good) But why are the boots not reading at all? All 4 read open circuit no matter where I set the ohmmeter? 20K, 200K, 2000K, they all (4) read OPEN circuit... Could all 4 be bad or I can't check this resistance?

From cap to cap? So I don't use primary ground to test secondary like what the manual says? I'll give this a try and post findings..

Is the manual wrong or do I have 2 bad coils? Neither of them will read the 4.7k ~ 7.1k ohm that the manual says.

Ok, so if they are all good at it, it all depends on who is the cheapest... And that is....?

By the looks of those pictures it looks like banshees are nickel-plated??? If it is, everything I have had to rebuild has been nickel-plated, I can't just take it to a machine shop and do it? I have had to send it in, I have used Millenium Technologies for re-plating... So I can get Wiseco top-end rebuild kit, what do I need to do with cylinders?

My bad, by off-road I meant trails, sand, dirt. No drag (paved or sand) what I do is sometimes "drag" with other banshees (not drag ones) to see which is fastest but not as a hobby like most of you shee's And question was if I get a drag port, will it help when I trail?

So what's the verdict on the cool heads, which is best and which is worse?

LOL.. Kinda thread jacking (but I'm sure OP will want to know too...) So which is the cheapest, I am debating on doing a "play" port, not looking for drag, but if I can get a drag port for off-road which is what I mainly do and stay 93 octane I should...what do you recommend?

You know, I am about to find out when I open her up. I called the previous owner and he said that it had pistons, but IDK, it ran like any other shee with expansion/pipe. What is the stock measurement? (I have a measuring tool I can just take heads off and check.)

Ok, so I have the following already: VForce 3's Ricky Stator (200w with timing and set +4 forgot to mention that) So basically I would need new pistons (Vito suggested, Wiseco for price,) a port job and .025" less on stock head. What's the minimum bore oversize I can go? .10? If going aftermarket/cool head what cc domes should I be looking at?

Addition to mods: VF 3's (I did this blind, thought the low compression was from the reeds since it had stock reeds and it's a '99 shee... Ricky Stator (200w) Here is 2 links (eBay) on what I've been looking at... Namura Std Piston rebuild kit 4MM stroker kit With this last one (4mm stroker) do I need to resleeve cylinders?

My bad, I forgot all that info!!! Stock motor, stock airbox, FMF exhaust, TORS eliminated, UNI filter. Mainly off-road (no drag, well ocassionally but with other non-drag shees.) I am comfortable using a dremel, scary thought though...lol More HP/better acceleration is definately something I would chip in a few extra bucks. Budget = no more than $500 Oh, and I want to be able to use 93 octane all day long.

Just FYI I'm reading this thread, going to do a rebuild soon and would like to know my "head" options The use of O-rings sure sounds good, since you can take off, inspect, put back together with same O-ring (keep in mind you haven't burned the O-ring by overheating) Kinda off topic: I use ADA racing on my Kawi 150's (jetskis) and I love them!

Howdy. I am due for a rebuild, what is the best option I have? I've seen a few options, like cubs and also seen sleeve/piston repair "kits" but what's the best bang for my buck? Keep in mind I would like to do it all in my garage. I already rebuilt the carbs ($28 incl. shipping eBay) and replaced all my wheel/swingarm bearings, all I need is a motor refresh...

Find him a blueprint of where to shave and maybe craigslist or ebay listing link of heads.

My batt is a gel sealed batt (a jetski battery, DEKA) 330cca.

+4 oring, got hot, lost round shape, might as well do the seal while you're at it and check the impeller. you will notice some wear on it, if it aint too bad you can reuse, or just swap as well, might as well get racing one. Be carefull taking bearing out, tap it repeatedly, not SUPER HARD.

Reviving the dead.... I'd like to see that electric start, I converted my banshee to DC to run HID's and have an R1 rear light with working brake lights with a 200w Ricky Stator. I would convert to electric start just so my girl (u know girls...) can ride the banshee instead of the Raptor 700R, it's too rough for her...

I don't have a Clymer's Manual, that's why I asked here. I installed them on every arrow bolt, then a second time. So every arrow got 2. On top arrow I installed one, skipped a bolt, installed on next arrow, skipped bolt, installed 3rd arrrow then back installed on top arrow and next 2 arrows.

Hello, I just took my clutch apart and noticed the metal plates have a thinner part on one end, I did not noticed how it was before, how can I install it back without messing something up? Can I do opposites on this? Please help, thanks!