kpennepacker

Thank you

I got a new sprocket for my banshee and instead of the 41 teeth its 40 teeth. Will this amount to anything. I know if you have to change 3 in the rear to equal 1 in the front. I still have the stock 13 tooth fron.

Yeah I with Savage, first do a compression check and then just do the maintenance on, like the plugs and oil and maybe even the fuel fillter. And if it's been a while since they started so 93 octane and good oil could maybe help it settle back in fron sitting. P.S I use the Bel Ray Gearsaver also and I used this stuff called engine Ice for rad fluid that was all the cycle shop had when I was there.

I run the vf3 with the charriot intakes with the crossover plate and really like but it is rather expensive. I was a machinist for a living and I must say the charriot intakes are nicely machined and I 'm very impressed. So either way I don't think you'll make a wrong choice.

I used stainless steel braided line. I believe it's -6 which is 3/8 hose. It turned out nice. I actually took my stock petcok and opened in up and drilled the front out and tapped it with an 1/8-27 pipe tap and used AN fittings. I heared it may not flow as good but it seems ok so far. Looking to buy and dual one. But push lock may look preet sweet. I never thought of though. Try and see how it looks. I will try to post some pics of my homemade fuel system...

Did you try a new set of plugs. I had a plug one time that had a hairline crack that would fire but very weak. Or maybe a intake boot leaking air.

Look to fire my banshee up this week end and was wander what the best mix ratio. I'm running a modquad head with 19cc domes, .080 over wiesco forged pistons, dune port, v force 3 reeds, charriot billet intakes. Nology hot wires, Cpi pipes and 34mm flatsides. I was thinking maybe 32:1 Klotzs super techniplate with Vp c12. But I wanted to consult the banshee experts. Also off topic I live in md and don't know of any where to dyno my banshee at but I was wandering if there was any one with a similar setup that could tell me a ballpark on what my horsepower would be. Thanks

I have some left overs from my build. Front stock shocks that need cleaned and painted 20.00 Full set of front a arms. Also need cleaned and painted. 50.00 for all 4 Front grill shroud with alum grill. No cracks need painted. 20.00 Gas tank cover few scraches blue in color with faded spots. 20.00 Front fender blue with faded spots has some crack. 10.00 Rear fender with faded spots and scraches 30.00 Front wheels in ok cond tires are shot. 15.00 for the pair Stock head milled .005. 25.00 All prices plus shipping. I will put them on ebay in a week or two want to offer them to you guys first. Email for pics. I never have any luck posting pics.

Check your pick up coil. When you put the sator on you may have bumped it. Spin the flywheel till one of the knubs is inline with the pick up coil and use a buisness card or a machbox cover to set the gap. I had the same problem on my last banshee. I reset the pick up coil distance and fire right up. If the pick up coil can't pick up the position of the flywheel theres no spark and that sux.

I have a 66mm bore. I am looking to get a modquad head with 21cc domes. My guy at the shop said i needed a special head because of the large bore. Is this true. I looked up the heads and i see that there are some for a 68mm bore but nothing about 66mm bore. So does a std head work in my case and i can give the shop a piece of my mind.

I am rebuilding my banshee and it is bored to 66mm. Cylinders in good shape. I am having a dune port done and a hone job. I have Cpi in frame drag pipes. I am going to be runnnig v force reeds 34mm carbs and a head with some size of dome based on what you guys recomend. My question is what pistons to go with to get the most power...WSM...Wiesco..Vitos...eTc. And what domes are best to run. I'd like to stay with 98octane since it is pump gas around here or maybe allitle higher The drag strip is next to my house and there Vp is there. ......Thoughts guys. Piston type Head and Dome size

Well I just got my frame painted this mornining. Its been allot of work. Sandblasting then cleaning up the welds etching primer then filling primer, Sanded and 4 coats of jazz blue pearl and then 4 coats of clear.

If you decide to change your mind If you don't have a paint gun you can get a cheap one from harbor freight that will do the trick. YOu can get that look with black base coat and acrylic enamel hardner and a flex additive for bumbers. I paint cars for a living and do allot of old school hot rods. The black base coat with out the clear has the nice satin sheen and the acrylic enamel hardner adds durabilty and protects and the flex additive helps with the plastics bending and paint cracking. if you want more info just email me. I've done theis to 5 or six quads and the customers could be happier.

I just bought a banshee and now I am rebuilding it from the frame up and its good thing I did lots of issues so I ma need of some parts. Dual petcock intakes for a 34mm carbs set of reeds and cages. Something like vforce or charriot. aftermarket head with around a 20cc domes Set of K&N air filters that go directly on the carbs. Carrier Rear shock Set of yfz 450 shocks Set of race plastics. Looking for full bore or laker. I have been looking through the for sale section but haven't seen any of these come up so I thought I'd post here and see what happens. Email any pics or if you have any of these parts email me at mini-tubbednova@hotmail.com Thanks Guys

Thanks. I appreciate it.

I just bought a banshee and tore it down to rebuilt and I pulled the carb off. They are Mikuni flatside carbs. The guy before me cut the stock boot so they would slide on and rtv the crab out of it.... I can't figure out what size they are to get the correct boot. The I.D of the inake side measures 34mm and the O.D measures 40mm. So what boot do I buy because they won't slide into the boots i have. Charriot racing has intakes from 26-36 or 38-40. Which should fit. Any help would be appreciated.

This is an awesome quad. Most of its brand new. Has new laker race plastic. Itp wheels, 10" bead locks on the back, with holesshots all around. Has new Dura blue race rear axle and hub on the rear. 4" wider than stock and allot thicker. Rethal sprockets and EK gold chain. New Stator and pick up coil. with adj timing plate. New big bore kit with dune port. Wiesco piston New crank New clutch 2-1 carb Trinity stage 4 intake and Kehin carb, with twist throttle and stainless braided cable. V force reeds Toomey alum radiator Fmf power core 2 pipes and silencers Suspension yfz 450 front a arms, with shocks spindles, and brakes. Stainless braided lines. Frame has new gussets welded and reinforce on the front end. Rethal bars, Pro design kill switch New gripper seat cover. All new fluids...including brake fluids. Everythind was flushed out. Pics @ http://www.racingjunk.com/gallery/profile/274664 Located in Perryville Md. Very awsome banshee. Allot invested. Must see to fully appreciate. You wont be dissappointed. 2200 OBO

1989 Banshee. Motor is fresh in cluding .020 over Wiesco pistons Hot Rods Crank +4 timing and plate V-force 2 reed cages carbon fiber reeds Trinity stage 4, 2-1 carb with 38 mm Kehin carb, with new Uni filter Dirt Digger clutch. Toomey alum radiator FMF Gold series fatties and Power core 2 silencers. Mild dune port job Suspension Complete Yfz 450 front end. Brakes, a arms, spindles and shocks all off a new yfz 450. Sits and rides nice, stops on a dime. front sit Also has stainless steel brake lines. Rear has Dura blue race axle 2+ ITP holeshot all around, with a 10" ITP bead locks on the back. Laker Race front and rear fenders New Gripper seat cover Rethal bars Twist throttle PeP Ez pull clutch PEP steering stablizer DG bumber and Grab bar Prodesign kill swith New bolts Also has new EK gold chain and Rethal sprockets. This is a clean freshly re done banshee. It's very fast and reliable. Start 1st or 2nd kick. I'm asking2800 OBO.

I had it on my with the clarke tank. I had to raise them up so I could turn the bars all the way. I don't know if the Renthal bars are wider than stock or what. I made them using Roxys that I cut down. 15.00 shipped. I will do 220.00 shipped on the tank and fenders. Has all hardware.

I have a Clarke 5.5 gallon tank. Hasn't been on for long. I't was oringinly white but had it painted satin black. Has pet cock and cap on it. I would like to sell it with the rear fender and modified front fender and the grill surround. All for 200.00 OBO plus shipping. Back fenders have some scratches but no cracks. All are satin black with some stickers on the tank and rear fender. You know all those stickers you get when you buy parts. I have some pics of all of it on the bike, i will post the link later. Comes with all the bolts and bracket for the tank. Only selling because I bought race plastic. http://www.clarkemfg.com/cart/index.php?ma...products_id=267 DG Alloy bumber. 45.00 shipped. K&N with outerwear for stock air box. 35.00 shipped. 2-1 air box adapter. Used when using stock air dox with a sigle carb. 1.5 inch alum. handle bar risers. Make me an offer on any of it. I will consider all offers.

Complete J-arm front end. Upper J-arms lower a-arms, hubs spindles calipers, new brake pads with low hours. Nothing is bent, bushings still feel good. Everything is there but the shocks, and four lower a arm bolts. 100.00 + shipped Adjustable timing plate with stator and pickup coil. low hours. 75.00+shipped Dg Nerf bars and bumper. 85.00 + shipped. No pics of bumper yet I have 2 CDI boxes. I don't know if they are good. 20.00 for both, off a 95 I will ship it all for free. I need cash so make me an offer. I need some money for shocks.

I'm doing it now. I just wanted to double check where things go before I weld it solid.

I cut the mounts on the frame. It's a j arm banshee. I just have the one front upper mount. It just looks off to me.

I started to do my front end swap and I have the lower ones bolted and the upper ball joints don't line up with the lowers. The uppers set back a little. Are they suppose to be in line top to bottom. Could i see some pics from the side, to make sure i have the a arms in the right postion. I've tried the a arms back and forth and I'm a little stumped. Any pics would help greatly. I would really like to see pics from the side without the tires on, to see placement of the a arms.

Complete J-arm front end. Upper J-arms lower a-arms, hubs spindles calipers, new brake pads with low hours. Nothing is bent, bushings still feel good. Everything is there but the shocks, and four lower a arm bolts. 100.00 + shipping Adjustable timing plate with stator and pickup coil. low hours. 75.00+shipping Dg Nerf bars and bumper. 85.00 + shipping. No pics of bumper yet I have 2 CDI boxes. I don't know if they are good. 20.00 for both, off a 95.