old roost

Yup all together correct....... rod ball lith grease you name it. I think i will try adjusting it again tonight. Just seems that the clunth rod/arm moves with no more resisdtance that what the return spring gives.....

Ok guys put the motor back together this weekend. I am going back to the stock head.....from a cool head for now. The head studs for the cool head are obviously longer than stock. Who can i get them from prefferbaly overnighted? Also my clutch rod seem alfully easy to pull, I followed the manual to the T. Any ideas Let me know Thanks

Sounds like it is flooded......my sons 2 stroke will flood if you look at it wrong LOL, really his fuel shut off valve is broke and if it sits for more that 2 min with a full tank it floods instanty. I would make sure your shut of valve is working properly.

got it

Exact thing i was looking for Thanks for your response.....and everyone else also.

I will try that thanks for your help

How long has it been since you used it? I was going to go with the gray withsatnds up to 1000degrees intermitly I figure the case should not ever get close to that. I fugure maybe 500-600 max?

Ok guys, I just recieved the last of my parts last night that i need to put the banshee back together I can not get ahold of Yama bond with out ordering it and waiting. I spoke to the Motorcycle shop that are going to do the machine work. They had some kind of manufacture liquid gasket that cost $90 a tube (small at that). I asked if I could use the very high temp RTV sealent and the head mechanic said that would work on the case halves Has any one ever used that.....before I blow a gasket...........

yes you are correct, just to clean things up and make them flow a little better. Thanks i dont think i will sleep the rest of the week LOL.

A local Yamaha/ kawasaki shop. I should not have said (porting) just a mild smoothing of the rough edges. I did not want to get to crazy with my first banshee build.....plus this is basically for my wife.

I just wanted to tell everyone, I ordered a complete engine gasket kit with oil seals off e-bay. I needed it and it was all i could afford with all of the other parts i need for the rebuild. I was expecting a no name off brand as advertised in the add. Well the package came last night and I was pleased with the kit. it is a moose racing complete kit, not the very top of the line but in my opinion close to the top. I know there are company's on here......but bugdet is low with a complete total rebuild. I also ordered my piston kit....Namura I have used them in the past and had good luck. Wish me luck on this I hope to have it running this weekend...pending bore and port/polish.

hey guys, I just noticed ( lots going on with the rebuild) my rear cariier says RAD Banshee on it..... any one ever heard of it? i need the rear caliper mounting bracket.

The gold wing does have electric reverse. Looks to me that the rear wheels could have electric or hydralc motors to help pull the weight,Dont forget the gold wing will weigh about half of all jdm cars. I also agree that more needs to be put into america!!!!!!

I get a chuckle out of postings like that racer 250. There is no way that would beat a banshee, years upon years ago in high school i new a kid who had and raced one. My good friend had an old school 1974 or 75 honda MR 175 elsinor. The honda would beat it on top end.

I get home in 2 hours i will measure the ball bearing for you, that does sound about right though.

Will, the new set up will not let me pm you. I still need the front calipers if you still have them and do you have a stock head (must be perfect no resurfaceing needed?) my e-mail is [email protected] thanks. Mike

I just used the fusion plastic paint also, but wet sand wet sand wet sand before and after. alot of work but worth the effort. my plastic looked terrible ( white looked dirty even after washing) wet sanded and it looked brand new. I chose to paint my plastics black, shows every sand mark, so i just kept wet sanding and is comming out really nice.

i could prolly rebuild mine but by the time i get the rebuild kits ant the time it might be cheaper to just get used ones.....if the price is right......any idea on the rear carrier?

with the right tools a manual and patients i am sure you can do it......plus it will be good quality time for you both.

Ok i am in the process of rebuilding the banshee it is a 2000 model, first thing i have not diassebled the rear axle/carrier yet, my question is the rear caliper mounting bracket part of the bearing carrier or is it seperate? the top bolt hole broke so do i have to get a new mount or whole new carrier?????

You should be able to stay in the trailer at night, get pretty cool up there at night last time i was there in the summer it got inthe low 60's high 50's at night

family first!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

yup they have a great sense of humor!!! but then they have to. I have the upmost respect for our soldiers and every opertunity i get if i see one i say thank you!!!!! Not everyone may agree with what our men and women are doing over there but they are diong it to protect us back here. So the next time you see a soldier stop them and say thank you.Some of us cant even imagine what they are going through or have been through!!!!!!!!!!!! Land of the free and home of the brave!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

sounds good sinister boo!!!!!! yeah i really enjoy that stuff. it helps me relax. My next project after the banshee is a nitro powered rock crawler with a front mounted engine, every one says oh you have to go electric for the torq and throttle controll, I say bull shit LOL with a 20.1 transfer case that thing will idle up a wall LOL

Turbo banshee is correct it is all about the flow of air, i have never ported a banshee or bike head etc. But i have been into the Nitro powered Radio control cars for almost 20 years, i have ported and polished quite a few nitro engines, and i can tell you what a difference!!!! The little nito engines are on the averange 2.5cc and averange 1hp at like 18-20k rpm. they are 2 stroke and have the typical power band and the typical clean out before it gets on the pipe. Well i wanted more power so i took the engine apart and got out the dremal tool and went to town, the first motor didnt make any difference the second i really took my time and thought about the flow. Well when i put it back together and fired it up of course i had to retune the carb because of the better air flow but once that was dialed in WOW. Stock it would take i would say 3 seconds to clean out and really get on the pipe, after the port polish work it was almost instant at least 1 second was taking off.almost zero load up from idle to power band. Just something to think about. start off small before destroying a perfectly good jug/jugs. if you dont have acces to one of the nitro cars/trucks try on an old weed eater leaf blower etc all 2 strokes work on the same principal.