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I would recommend one of these. They are twin bearing carriers and look pretty nice. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-Banshee-swingarm-axle-carrier-BILLET-ALUMINUM-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem43a79d4119QQitemZ290574909721QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TWIN-ROW-BEARING-CARRIER-YAMAHA-BANSHEE-350-Y-8-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53e7e1224aQQitemZ360372576842QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

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I would say 19 to 20 on the domes. I am at 1600' and had no problem runnning 19cc domes, just use quality fuel. Save your self and dont buy a 2into1 setup. Get a nice set off 28mm PWK. They are very easy to jet and just a ilittle bigger. Stick with wiseco pistons. I would use a good high quality paint. The key to a good paint job is good prep work. Use a paint thinner or brakecleaner to clean the area of dirt and grease. The spray it with a nice primer and do alot of light coats of paint. Then spray it with a clear coat to help protect.

I will check RMATV for the Cator. Still curious on the Lucas. Lucas has always made a good product so I would guess that their 2 cycle oil is just as good. Let me know if you run it.

I read a couple posts on it but nothing from anyone who has ran it for a long period of time. Has anyone been running it and taken apart the motor to see what it looks like after long term use. I know Lucas makes good products. I am tired of paying $20 per 32oz for Castor and looking to switch.

Well I measured the clutch plates and there is no wear on those. So I am not sure what all the black stuff was but we will see if it does it again.

I pulled it apart and everything appears to be fine. No marks on the basket and looks good. I am hoping that it isnt the clutch plates. What thickness is spec on those. It is a FAST clutch.

So as stated in another post my clutch arm just popped out of the case. So I pull the clutch cover off and find a large amount of black sludge at the bottom of the clutch cover and case. Then the entire clutch assembly just falls off the drive shaft. So obviosly the nut the holds the basket on came off. So my question, is the sludge pieces of my clutch plates that wore off because it wasnt engaging properly? I did go from running 10w30 to running ATF so could that be the ATF cleaning out the old crap?

Did you ever find the problem

Lets hope I didnt weld the ball. I will tear her down tonight and see what happened. I was hoping it would be easier then this.

To me it sounds like your stator went. I would also pull off the stator cover and make sure the flywheel nut did not back out.

Ok so I am giving the old shee a test ride and the clutch lever goes limp. I stop the bike and find the the clutch arm and rod have backed out about three quarters of an inch and now the clutch arm moves freely. I still have the bracket that holds down the clutch arm on so not sure why it came out. What steps should I follow to get the rod and arm back into place. What do I need to tear down. Do I have to pull the clutch cover off and the clutch off to get that rod back into place.

I received my parts from Trinity and thought I would give a update. The parts I ordered where shipped the day I ordered them. The box arrived and was packaged very well with lots of bubble wrap and peanuts to protect my parts. I received numerous parts that I did not know I was going to get. I received 5 sets of pilots and 5 sets of main jets for my carbs. I also received a braided stainless throttle cable. So I got some free jets and an upgraded throttle cable. I am very happy with the service and parts from Trinity. Thanks again Roadrunner Here are some pics of what to expect when ordering. Box as it arrived at my door After opening the box A spread of the goods.

Roll call for the 2011 Spring Jamboree in Genoa, NE. June 10, 11 and 121. There will be numerous different classes for the sand drags. Here is a link to the website. There are usually some pretty fast Banshees. http://www.nohva.com/jamboree.htm

So I took it down to the local bearing shop in town and they said the bearings are fine. He cleaned them up regreased them and then installed new seals. So now I have a two carrierers. I guess I will just sell it and run the new one.

41 Rear and 14 Front Thats how I roll

I ran 21x12x8 8 paddles and 22x11x8 10 paddles and would say that the 10 paddles are where its at.

I think it is a better bearing but they are $35 each so $70 for new bearings. I just said to hell with it and bought a new carrier from JJ&A for $100.

So tore apart my round bearing carrier and found that it is an older RMP carrier with taper bearings. My question is can I press out the old taper bearing and press in new stock bearings without any problems. The diameter of the bearing is the same.

Is there supposed to be any side to side play with the tapered bearing. When I put the bearing in then put the oil seal in I can still move the bearing in and out. Does this go away when I tighten it all up or is something still wrong.

James you have to find the pictures of that. At least we didnt run. The officer was cool as hell, told us to push them out of town and ride them from there.

I will be at central parts in the morning then. Do they have them on hand or is it something I have to order.

So heres the deal. I just put on a used Lonestar +4 Swinger. I decided that it would be a good idea to replace the axle bearing why I have it torn down. So do some research and from what I can tell the stock bearings are what I need. So I buy them, go home and tear out he old bearing and find this. So where can I get these bearings at? Are they worth a shit or should a get a new carrier?

I have made people push their bike home. The only time that happens is when they are riding like idiots on the road. I had a guy whippin shitters in an intersection for a gravel road. He had dug some pretty deep ruts and he couldn't figure out what the problem was. Well he got to push his shit home while I followed.

Make an offer boys lets move these bad boys