blaster2006
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Posts posted by blaster2006
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look, i dont pay my mechanic, he helps me for free as a good friend, i just tipped him once for the job where he cleaned my carbs and put my pipes/ filters on, thats it. i gave him $20 for that, other than that for the little things etc he does for me, i dont pay him, so why not have him help me.
i agree with that i have to move the needle up 1 notch ( lower the clip notch 1 time, so pointy part moves up abit).
its just the bad response i got atm which is annoying.. got delays alot.. noticing it more and more i drive it.. it pulls when i gas it top after some time but it pulls way harder when i actually wait for it to respond from the massive delay, when it was stock it had better response.. but not as much power as it has now when i actually give it time to respond
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ok, relative to where the main jet is, where is it? i removed the float bowls and all that and saw nothing to be removed by a flat head. And the pilot jet would cause the cylinder to not run at all? I would've thought it would still run just off the gas it got through the main even if it was rough.
you cant miss it, its near the main jet, its a thin metal tube, look down it you will see a tiny golden screw.. you need a very thin flathead screwdriver to put it in and take it out
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Bigger main jets! I know you think your rich enough, probably are down low, but bet your lean up top!
yeah, but i dont think it would make the problem how i listed...
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Just recently installed my mods, (K&N filter, pipes, 280 mains, and turned air screw 1 turn out).
it ran fine etc, plugs SEEM fine, if im off jetting im sure its just by a VERY little bit, and if something im guessing im abit rich.
but anyway, bike runs fine etc, but today, i raced another banshee for fun, and this is what happened.
i launched from 2nd gear (i had a perfect launch), accelerated fast enough to go into 3rd (like i always do, always shift at the same time etc), but this time with my mods, when i hit 3rd, and pushed the throttle to full immediately ( like i do when racing ofc), for 1.00 sec exactly, the bike would NOT pull... loose power completely then after 1 sec it pulls again and shifts through the rest of the gears fine...
i dont think its from lean jetting, but what i could say is my reeds are bad, and the petals have never been changed since the previous owner i bought it from had it, its a 06 banshee with stock reed cage and petals.
and when i tore my shee apart when installing mods, my mechanic wanted to check the reeds, before he pulled them out, he did "his test" to see if the reeds are good. we took the carb off the intake, and then he put his hand over the intake and blocked it completely, he then gave it a few kicks, and then he said he could feel air blowing against his hand which meant i had bad reads (i noticed before he kicked it that he put the key switch on "on") and he said that since he felt air push against his hands from the intake boot, when he kicked it, that it means ive got bad reeds.
so could this problem be from bad reeds, the not so quick response or pull. whatever it is.
note: this did not happen when my bike was stock, also this does not happen if i cruise... it only happens when i race ( and i think it only happens on a slippery road with some sand and rocks (rocky sand), im pretty sure on road if i race launch from 2nd and shift to third it pulls instantly... i will check again on that tommorow
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I just did a search on the forum and on yahoo and couldnt find the answer thanks for the help.
91 was the 1st with a arms
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am i the only one who thinks the stock looks the best? it gives it that get out of my way face.
honestly if i was given one of those DG, or the ones that look like them, or most of the aftermarket ones, if i was given them for FREE... i would NOT put them on. i would only put it on if i was given it free and no less than about $200 tbh
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everyone was telling me to use belray gear saver 80w or "ATF type F" gear oil in the tranny.
i finally found some ATF "h specifications" so basically ATF type H... and it said for automatic transmition... and ATF standing for automatic transmition fluid. etc.
questions are:
1. is only ATF type F that works? or can i buy the type H available here?
2. since all the ATF kinds are designed for automatic... isnt that not so great? dont those always have the non friciton additive which is bad for clutches?
3. For everyone who uses different kinds of oils other than the recommended (SAE10w-30). like people who use ATF type F, belray gear saver 80w etc etc, you all say "yeah it works great", how do you know that? who told you to use different oils from what recommended, who said that you can use different kind of oils other than what is recommended.. what told you that this specific oil is good if they dont recommend it, im sure yamaha knows better since they make the engines? when you say it works great, anything works great, im using sae 20w-50, i feel its not so good for the engine, but my engine still runs and "works great"
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The bottom tube is the overflow tube from the rad. The top tube does not connect to anything else. It is breather/overflow tube for the bottle itself.
The bottom tube will spit fluid out in the bottle, then once the bike cools off, it sucks it back in the same tube. This was stated before.
Your right, you do not have to do a plug chop, but you do have to check the plugs the right way. NOT ride it around normal. Put in new plugs, WOT through the gears, Kill the bike while in 6th, and roll to a stop. Pull the plugs, get a flashlight and look down inside the plug. Should be a med dark choco ring around the white electrode. If it is a light color, your lean. That simple. If you can not see it, then chop the top off. Bring extra plugs to get you back just in case.
It is all trouble shooting. You elminate one reason at a time. We can't just point and say this is the reason your heating up. Start with the easy, and fig out if your lean. If not, people will be able to move on to the next step.
well 1 thing i can say, my 6th gear does NOT PULL, its really weak, as it was like that before i even modded my bike also.
unless i REDLINE 5th gear. the 6th gear has no pull.
i aslo did do a compression test.. i got 125 psi on left cyl, 120 psi on the right one, but the adapter i put in the cyl had very short threads, it was maybe only 1/3 of how big the br8es spark plugs are. so im guessing its over 120 psi.
as for when you said about how it sucks coolant when its cooler, exactly my point why you should need a bottle and not ditch the bottle like most people do, meaning it now just spills out coolant but it trys to suck in some when cool but it cant since there is no bottle. exactly my point, so its trying to suck in coolant at some points but it just cant cause there is no overflow bottle.
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when i get done riding i shut the gas off and let it run until it dies, that way the floats drop and the needles arent even touching the seats. they last forever that way. the needles in my 93 still look good so it must help. also leaving the gas on can lead to other problems, there was a thread about a month ago so do a search.
kinda sucks for me, on my banshee the fuel valve is always on .. no matter where you put it.
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well i have a 97, and an 06, and was working on both of them last night, so i can give you an idea of what you will need, there might be more though. new wiring harness, switch with spring and mount for rear brake, new front master cylinder with switch, rear light and that seems like it to me. seems like a pita and not worth it in my opinion. plus its better if you have to ditch the cops to have no brake light.
if he wanted to ditch the cops... i would just turn off my lights tbh
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i just rode it.. normally.. did not do a plug chop..alot of people say its stupid.. and you can get a good figure from looking at the spark plug. besides, it runs fine..
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heres some food for thought...
you said that you ditched the bottle and you had coolant coming out of the overflow tube.
now is the problem that you now have coolant puking out of the overflow that you can see of that you need a coolant bottle installed so you cant see that you have coolant puking out of the overflow?
to me all a coolant bottle does is mask the fact that your overheating the engine, if your heating up enough that your spitting coolant then you have some other problem and all the bottle is doing is hiding the problem....
to me basicly what your saying is "while i had my coolant bottle installed i couldnt tell that i was puking coolant from my radiator, but now that i removed it i can see that its blowing out all over the place. now i want to re-install my coolant bottle so i cant see the problem anymore..."
check your jetting (i know, your builder said it's spot on. thats what builders do...) and check that your impelers working properly. maybe your radiator is plugged up?
i think my problem is not how you think it is, there are 2 tubes, 1 tube, that gos at the bottom of the overflow bottle, and one tube that is on top of the overflow, normally, i would assume that the bottom one is sucking coolant, and the top one just dumps out extra coolant.
now, i was astonished... simply because.. i noticed that coolant was slowly dripping from the tube that was at the BOTTOM of the coolant overflow, which is supposed to suck coolant, knowing that the one on top is the overflow one. this is why im abit scared that coolant is dropping from the wrong tube..
my spark plugs are black, insulator is black.. infact heres a pic of the plugs.. after i rode it for no more than 10 minutes.
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well everyone i got it all installed! its a whole new world, the bike is wayyyy faster! they set it up with 300 jets. i dont know all the details but they said the bike was ready for glamis and should be perfect for regular riding here in tucson. runs great, thanks everyone for all the help! ill post pics as soon as i find out how to.
nice, your just like me
, just recently got pipes/ filter, runs nice! -
personally id pick pro circuits over FMF any day
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1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? DMC 916
2) What type of airfilter do you have? k&n POD
3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with lid
stock airbox with NO lid c) Stock airbox with vents d) no airbox at allK&N POD
4) What is your elevation? (If you don't know, go here: http://www.topozone.com )
sea level
5) What size pilot jets are you using?
stock (25)
6) What size main jets are you using?
280
7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for?
60-80
8) Do you have a port job?
no
9) What kind of carbs?
stock
10)stock needle clip
11) 1 turn out on air fuel screws
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as for mixing coolant, just make sure you don't mix long life, and conventional. you can mix all brands of conventional together. i would test it too, to make sure it doesn't break down to a different ph level. the system is only like 2.5 qts, so it's no real cost at all to change :thumbsup:
yeah, i dont mind at all.. easy we drain the radiator.. right.. but.. there is still some coolant left in the jugs + head, so it will still be considered "mixing".
also talking about coolants, all the shops here sell different kinds, what kinds should i be looking for, anything specific?
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Ok fellas i ran into a lil dilama couldnt figure out why it wouldnt idle and why it wouldnt run right. found out had the wrong slides in each carb. swaped em over and got the idle done and man does it scream now. it runs sooooooo damn good now. i wasnt able to make it over 1/2 throttle but on the ice in my driveway thats beging to melt it would bring the front wells up at 1/2.lol it def runs a hell of alot better. now i just gotta wait til its not so damn muddy out so i can hit the hills. Thanks again Travis!!!!
wow lucky you
enjoy zeh portingz -
Always something! lol
You'll know that bike inside out, by the time your done with it. :biggrin:
theres always problems buying used ...............
shoulda bought new... 2009 one since they sell it here..
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First I have to say thats a great ass.
:thumbsup:
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You shoulda thought of it after I posted this on the 4th after you asked about it... LOL
Did you shut your fuel off? If you did, it will stop leaking after the fuel runs out of the carb, no worries. You either need to get the relocator bracket or I think you could prolly destroy the airbox and make the bracket out of that???? Or you can run without. BTW those screws can be a bitch to get out without stripping sometimes. Your better off replacing them with allen screws.
haha yeah, you gave me the idea, i ddnt think of it, then when i heard it a second time and looked at my airbox... then i thought of it and was like.. yeah,...
good idea..
as for my switch, when i tore it apart to install my mods, the on/off valve does not work... lol... its broken :S
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That little bit isnt going to matter. I dont see any pms
also just opened the radiator cap, it was FULL to the top, so i guess im safe and good to go, can i just keep the thing ditched, and from time to time just make sure that the radiator is full of coolant?
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All you need to do is cut the back of you air box off and do a nice job doing it then put the 2 bolts back in that held the back of the air box and that will hold you overflow bottle right were it is suppost to be.
great idea, cant believe i did not think of that, working on that now.
when i get my coolant bottle re attached though, and the hoses, it would be better if i filled it up ( the overflow bottle).
but knowing that ill be using a different brand coolant, thats okay right? its okay to mix coolants and brands etc? just to add some in the overflow.. to the low mark atleast?
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I agree. I never idle long enough to worry about it and I have dust in my overflow bottle. I don't think it has ever over heated. I really only "idle" when I take it off the trailer to let it warm up. Other than that, it is pretty much off when I am stopped. I do idle on some down hills, and those short moments in the trails when I have to figure out where the hell I am/going. But it is very short.
yeah same here, i turn it off whenever i get the chance.. so it cools down... but... its on idle like.. what 5-10% of the time when you are riding it anyway..
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Is this the same Mechanic that gave you advise on tors?
You can cut the back wall of your old air box out and fab it into bottle mount.
Im thinking of duct taping it on... really well.. dont know if it will hold.
and uwenr... thanks for the billet bracket, thats really nice, sent you a PM got some questions about it.
Oh and lets say i re attach my coolant bottle ( which i drained the coolant out of obviously when i took it off)
can i just re fill only the overflow bottle with some other random brand coolant? or is it not good to mix coolants? and im gonna have to drain all the coolant from my radiator? and then drain the coolant leftover from the cylinders -.-.
Damn Coolant
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
just did a plug chop... heated it 1min.. put new plugs, kicked it and raced myself.... wot wot as much as i can... rode it for about 3 mins hard... took out plugs i can see dark brownish colors down the plug.
guess im good now guaranteed. that im good to go as for main jets.
also btw, volfan, i looked at your sig, youve got more mods than me, including the Pods ive got, and your running 290 mains, and where i live its VERY hot, today afternoon it was actually hot.. about 75 degrees. where i live in the middle east its hottt... coldest it got was 60 F. its 60-80 degrees here.
i think ill need to richen the needle and move the needle up..