blaster2006
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Posts posted by blaster2006
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sounds like you leaned it out and siezed the top end but hey, blaster says your plugs are great so that couldnt be what happend...
pull the head and i'd bet you find a piston that looks very grey and melted on the exhaust side if not both of them....
and just because the bottles full doesnt mean the impellers still intact and eveythings flowing like it should be... if the bottles over full then i could have been puking the coolant back to the bottle because it was overheating...
come to think of it it could be blown up cylinder/ pistons, since the overflow coolant box was over the high mark, maybe it was trying to overflow but it couldnt so something happened - not too sure exactly, but yeah, because its over high thats a bad sign imo
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yea same thang happen to me.. busted water hose didn't know and ran it hot.. locked up and wouldn't kick right then...but after the pistons cool down they will move in the cylinder but u have no compression..
his coolant overflow is over the high mark
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Sounds like it might have leaned out on you.
Probably time for a teardown. :ermm:its not running lean.. let me start by saying im a really good friend of 06shee, i know him irl, (but dont live in the same country anymore).
his sparkplugs are perfect the insulator and electrode seem perfect, a tanned color.
i was thinking it could be his 4mm crank that broke?
isnt it true that the bigger the stroke, the easier it breaks at higher RMP's, since he was going at full throttle high rpm, maybe the crank broke, and explains why it feels "dead" when he kicks it over IMO.
and i know that hes getting a new set of cylinders like the cheetah cub kit or something, if his crank is broken he can just get that crazy kit on ebay which comes with a new 4mm crank, insane 72mm jugs (pre-ported) with pistons for it etc and domes, a full kit.
if its his pistons or it blew up, he can just go for the FAST kit that comes with jugs and pistons only.
if its a problem with the crank/pistons/jugs etc it wont be that bigga deal since he was planning on a new set anyway, right 06shee?
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hmm i dont get it, on the video link, i watched the whole thing and i ddnt see any video of a banshee? they just shows his corevette and the other truck on the cribs link...
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hehe, i actually used to think that, the banshee was 2x 350 ccs
and ddnt know that having a Vtwin is ADDING the ccs lol.i thought just having a vtwin would give more pull power and acceleration, ddnt know it doubles the displacement.
but i think a 350 single would be faster though, regardless...
alot of vids i see vs 250r's and they either draw, or one of them wins by a small bit.
so imagine a 350 single with like a 40mm or 38mm carb, and high compression, would be insane.
but would wear out much faster from the bigger stroke, i think its also why they made the banshee 2 small twins, less wear out quicker
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heya, i was wondering, whats the difference.. between the same displacement if you had a 350 CC twin and a 350 single.
knowing that the banshee is 173.5cc per cylinder, which makes it 347cc since its a twin
wouldnt it be better to make a single 350cc?
whats the difference? is it the Twins accelerate faster, but less power? or what? if the banshee was a 350 single, in which areas would it be better?
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there is no way in hell you would rebuild top end or bottom end after 40 hours.
it only breaks in after 20 hours.
i know many people with 1980s bikes without EVER rebuilding their bottom ends. and only have done a new top end like once or twice maximum.
if i had to guess... rebuilding top end on average every 500 hours or so
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nice bikes RIPPEN and xXBlessedWithDeathXx
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if you dont plan on gettin any port work later on then i'd say go with the t6's.
yeah was thinking that too. but from all the 4 pipes listed, all 3 except the T6 are for sale locally. if i decide to go with T6 id have to order and pay international shipping lol.
anyone know how the DMC's perform exactly? are they more top end?
and the Pro circuits, anyone got these? are they really mostly bottom end or are they actually good top end pipes?
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hmm, dunno if this would help but:
when i had my blaster i lost my keys, where they key slot is, there is a black like big nut around it, i loosened it and took the lock assy out, i followed the wires it was connected to, then it connects to another set of wires with some plastic thing around them ( 2 wires connected to 2 other wires) i disconnected them , and left the other 2 wires hanging out, which means its on.
so if you have NO wires connecting anything, its as if your key assy was turned on. not off
im not sure i answered your question correctly, cause i ddnt understand it fully
hope this helps -
heya guys.
i need to know which one of these is best for a stock port and stock bore banshee.
the only other mods i would have are VF-3s and filter. no porting, maybe a .10 or .20 over boring later if needed.
i prefer a mid- top end pipe.
now between the T5 and T6, i know it may not be true, but on the toomey website they have dynos showing the T6 compared to many of the other good pipes aswell as the T5, and it had better results compared to anything.
I could get the DMC 916s ( they are selling it locally), but i know they sound great, but nobody talked about their performance, is it a bottom end pipe or more of a mid to top end?
Also, about pro circuit, i hear they are bottom end pipes from most people, but i also hear some local people saying no they are for all out racing etc.
so, any of you got these pipes and experience with other pipes etc? please give me any info that would help.
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Oh and forgot to mention is anyone's throttle really hard to push in??? Compared to all the other bikes that I ride with mine is wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy to stiff haha... Or is it just as easy to fix as a turn of a bolt???
its the same as all other quads in general. if its that hard to push, maybe its rusted and needs some lubing.
i think i know what your lag may be, from what your saying, it sounds as if your jetted too lean, and it does not have enough power to pull on bottom end.
do a plug check, make sure by the electrode and around it, that its brown/ dark brown.
if it looks more white, then you are lean and it explains those problems....
also try to sync your carbs. its very easy, even if you still got the stock airbox, just remove the filter, and look through the airbox holes, and you will see 2 metal walls, from each carb, push the throttle whilst looking at them, and make sure they move up at the same time.
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why dont you just get bigger carbs then lol. and get the porting and boring you need.
you can easily find like 34 PJs online used from ebay and other 33s and 35s etc...
as for your other questions, i have no idea
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those CPI pipes look SICK...
my top choice would be CPI's tbh.
i have never tried either one, but by just looking at how fat the expansion chambers on the CPI's are, it looks like it is reallly a TOP end pipe.
i read abit on how pipes work etc, and its usually the bigger and fatter the expansion chamber the more top end it has.
the more narrow and curveyer they are the more bottom end it has, meaning something like a T-6 ( notice the big curve just before it connects to the stinger pipe.
may sound stupid but just what i heard along time ago hehe.
i personally would not pay more money to get different aftermarket pipes. the difference is from stock to aftermarket, from one aftermarket to another isnt that great of a diff
but since you claimed you already got them, tell us , how are they?
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if it runs fine when hot, and has no problems etc,
if you got mods on and bolt ons, and kept a stock pilot jet, then jet up a size on pilot and up 1 size on mains since its colder
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first what is your allignment set at? you should have a little toe out, and how much depends on the ridding conditions. the most toe out should be 1/4-3/8" if you ride tight to mid trail/mx/mud. high speeds is more like 1/8-1/16", and asphalt would be ideal with 1/16" toe in depending on the joints.
as for those spacers, they should hpefully be bolted to the stockk studs, and all you'll need is the nuts and washers. they should be availible at a fastner store. grade 8, and hard washers
they are sticking WAY out. like when i make one wheel exactly straight ( that would be turning the steering slithglly), then it would make 1 wheel straight, and the other would be about 1 inch (if not more) sticking out.
to a point where when im pulling it in reverse, it feels really hard to pull back, but it moves easier when moving forward ofc, since they are moving outwards.
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Pretty simple, but kinda hard to explain without actually showing you. Hope I don't get you all confused. On each side, you have a tie rod with 2 rod ends. On each tie rod, one end is right hand threaded, and the other is left hand threaded. Loosen the jamb nuts beside the rod ends. Make sure the handlebars are completely straight. Then just turn the tie rod which ever way it needs to go. Shortening it will make the tires toe out, and vice versa. I just use a tape measure to get them aligned. Measure between the two front tires, in the front and back, from the widest part of the tires. You have to measure right in the middle of the tire, height wise. They should be the same measurements when they are straight. Just make sure you keep checking the handlebars for straightness. They will turn on their own while doing this. Then, just tighten the jamb nuts back up.
As far as the spacers, I would imagine that they use the stock studs and lug nuts. I really couldn't tell ya.
yeah, what i never get is those kinds of assy's, where there is a nut, and you have to move the nut on a palce and when you move it there it changes things then you move the nut on a holder etc?? i know what i just made does not make sense, but i really dont understand that assy.
if anyone can take a quick short video and show a small demonstration, upload to photobucket and link it to me that would be awesome.
i have a small idea of what you meant, maybe i can make a small video myself, showing what parts im talking about and if what ill show you is right.. to adjust the alignment?
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heya, i got 2 things i need to do with my tires, which are removing the 2 inch spacers on each side of the rear tires (thats i how i bought, it came with it), and i need to allign the front wheels, both tires are turning outward when the steering is put straight.
questions are:
1. Will i need new stock bolts when i remove the tire spacer, and re attach the wheels directly to the hub? i dont know if yo need to use new longer bolts when you add spacers or maybe the stock ones are there etc?
2. HOW do i allign the front wheels? i see by the ends of the tire side, on the tie rods, by the end of it there is a nut and some threads, but i dont know how that mechanism works etc... so can someone explain?
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Yeah it did because of the EFI system and a few other goodies. The EFI system actually weighs a good amount for its size, but as far as the bike goes its pretty nice Ive heard some good things. If you get one you should check out Sonic Off-road the built an independent rear suspension for almost every 450 and the raptor 700 that adds more ground clearance and barely any weight its pretty nice.
just rode one and raced one yesterday.
its a nice quad, its got better top speed than a banshee, but not as good accel and power,
for example, lets say you push the throttle on a banshee immediately to full on say 2nd gear, the front gets instantly light and if your sitting back it pulls hard and wheelies instantly.
the YFZ does not pull up or have a quick throttle response boost up, but its fast top speed and wayyy more comfy.
we raced stock vs stock about 1/8th mile, on hard road with abit of sand and rocks. although his tire tread was worn out and mine werent, but dunno if that makes a diff for the ground we raced on.
i won by abit, but then just after i crossed the finish line he pulled off after me, so yeah its got good top speed/ top end.
so if you got got a small budget etc just go for the banshee since its cheaper imo
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funny.
i recently got a banshee, i had problems close to what you had, at first when i got it used, it would randomly let more air in, then it would run good, then you can hear it taking in alot of air the ngood on and off etc.
i did a few things, bought a new filter put in new gas at new premix.
atm it runs much better but my problem now is very relative to yours.
the next day when i start it, it takes 1 or 2 kicks with choke pulled FULLY, but when i hear it starting, i rev it to help it start off, and it keeps trying to turn off and when im revving it you can REALLY hear LOADS of air stuck in it, so very deep throaty revs, full of air,( im constantly revving it just after i kicked or it would die out from the massive amount of air). when it heats up the air flow is normal and it idles alone with no choke ofc and without me revving it.
although even when its hot, RARELY does it randomly take in extra air for a max of 1 sec, and looses complete power, then re runs perfect.
it mostly happens on low RPMS at 1st and 2nd gear, but very very rarely now, since i did a few adjustments.
what i still did not try is cleaning carbs, and checking the reeds.
later if its hot and i turn it off for 5 to 10 mins, if its still hot it fires up first kick easily, no doubt.
just starting it, is killer, gotta keep revving it with the full choke pulled as you can hear it as if its running K&N pods, bored out to 68mm, piped and having 150 main jets, thats how it sounds. VERY very lean throaty deep air noise.
then when warm it runs perfect other than the rare 1 sec occasions as mentioned above.
just to let you know hehe, so whatever the problem is or if you find it out, let me know, cause ill try the same thing.
oh and i forgot to mention that my blaster is 100% stock engine
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There is a boost bottle on the hq raffle bike,We are using it as a governer so the winner gets used to the power,then his or her first mod can be to remove the boost bottle...LOL :thumbsup:
LOL
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I just missed those ones. I think you got a pretty decent deal. They are still argueing over there too I think.
Here's some pics I found. You can see the differences.
those are some fat pipes ( vitos)
they had fat bastards for blaster and those are FAT as fuck too.
pure top end ones
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ok lets try the 1 thing no one has suggested yet take the seat off and look between the carbs and see if there is a small (like fuel line) sized hose going from 1 carb to the other not to be confused for the actual fuel line if its not that may be your problem becouse the jacka$$ that had it was so stupid he may have pulled it off for some reason. also its not hard to clean carbs get a manual or ask a friend im sure you dont ride by yourself im sure someone you know has some kind experience with it or just spend the money and take it to the dealer becouse banshees are to exspensive and complicatedd to get blown up becouse someone wants to be cheap or just say no thats not it everyone is trying to help to the best they can and im sure that some of the best banshee people are right here and have given you there suggestions its a trial and errror thing and if your not willing to try you may as well give up and get a blaster back or buy a 4stroke becouse these things are the best but also the best at being a pain in the ass also.
also my banshee makes almost the same noise becouse the snorkel is off that is the sound of 2 carbs sucking in alot of air to feed a hungry beast you can put your hand over the inlet to the air box and hit the gas and feel it pull your skin so maybe thats what your problem is or maybe the jacka$$ that had it chnged the jets or needle and leaned it out already you will never know till you dig into it so roll up ya sleeves and get dirty it aint gona do it itself
hehe, yes the black crossover tubes between the carbs, which connnects to the right carb where the choke should be the black hose is connected properly, i checked.
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Really?, I didn't know that.
Are they cheaper than Shearers, or go for around the same price? If they are cheaper, and practically the same pipe perhaps I should look into them.nice to say you got a set of "fat bastards" lol i would get em
im sure they got loads of top end, ive seen a pic they are fat as hell on the expansion chambers..
Just got my compression tested :)
in General Banshee Discussion
Posted · Edited by blaster2006
heya, i tested my compression with a somewhat decent tester, but the thing which go's in the spark plug was about 3 or 4 times shorter (the threads) then the br8es spark plug... ( i have an adaptor to make it bigger, but it wont fit cause its too big and no place to get it inside the damn banshee chasis in the way.
but yeah, i tested it with the adapter being pretty small, i got 125 psi on the left cylinder and 120psi on the right one.
i hope thats pretty good being the threads were also pretty small?
also one stupid thing i may not have to mention but... im running a stock foam filter with airbox and lid, i DID push the throttle all the way in for unlimited air flow... but i dont know if it like.. even with the full throttle if it would get much air in it? or it does not make a difference about the filter...?
i would like to know till about what compression is it time for a rebuild? im thinking like about 100-110 psi right?
thanks.