Beachcruiser

I was finally able to start tinkering with the banshee. Did a compression check and both cylinders read 120........what a new top end, port and milled head what should it be around?

Thanks for the link and clarification on what a leak down tester does. I'll definetly have to try it out. Yeah I agree that it seems like the pilot is to big as well. Something really is weird. The motor was stock before I rebuilt it and it ran fairly good. I was running 180 mains, 25 pilots, 2nd clip from top with 1.5 turns out. It's crazy that the motor seems like it needs smaller pilots although with a port job you'd have to go up instead of down.

I do have a volt meter. I do not have a leak down tester or know of anyone who has one. The manual I have is one I downloaded on a hosting site from one member on this forum. It is like 7 or 8 different manuals combined to make one complete one. Over all I think it is about 250 pages or so. I'll definetly start trying to track down the problem. Once again, thanks for your help Kevin.

Yeah I remember you telling that the dune ports are more for top end. I'm really suprised because I actually beat him every time we raced. I thought about trying to go up on my pilot to a 27.5 but was unsure of which pilots I need to get. Also,I need to check those 6 items listed above to see if it could be causing the tuning problem. Compression check I know how todo but how would I go about checking the other six? 2. Leak down test 3. Stator test 4. Gap pickup at flywheel 5. Coil test 6. CDI test Oh yeah. Does +4 timing sound about right for my mods?

Thanks for chiming in Kevin. Currently the timing is set at +4 . The weekend I when to the local mx track I actually ran into that had a similar setup. He was running a cool head with 21cc domes, HJR Dune port, pod filters, lightened fly wheel, T5s and timing set at +7. His ran absolutely great with your jetting specs of 330, unsure of pilots, 3rd clip on needle and 1 turn out.

Now that you mentioned that it does make sense. Tranny, gearing and tires are all stock. For some reason I couldn't ever get this fast before the porting. Now that I know A stock shee will run 78 mph....my 82.5 mph doesn't really impress me all that much. It's okay though, I'm still having a blast with it.

Just recently had kevin at HJR do a MX Hardcore port to my cylinders. I took it out last weekend and did fairly well against a few other ported banshees and killed about six 450s. Yesterday I took it out to some local saltflats and had a chance to top her out. Being 215 pounds I was able to get to 81.6 mph and my buddy that is 165 pounds topped it out at 82.5. Not quite sure if that is fast for the work that I have done but I doubt i'd want to go any faster than that haha. I am really impressed on how a simple port job and milled head could make such a big difference. Everything is great but my middle range is really dirty. Off idle is good but about mid range before it hits the pipe it'll start spitting and sputtering, once it hits the pipe it is gone. Currently running 320 mains, stock pilots (25s) and needle clip on the very top (leanest) with 3 turns out. It seems like the more turns out I go with the A/F the better the midrange cleans up. What do you guys suggest I do to clean it up? I tried kevins recommendations of 320, 25 pilots, needle in the middle and 1-1.5 turns on the A/F but it runs worse than what I have it at now. This tuning issue has me all twisted up. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks.......now to the videos. Oh yeah big thumbs up to kevin at HJR......did a badass job on the cylinders. Misc. video from a local MX track last weekend. Helmet cam from some dude riding a LTR450.....sound is messed up Here I am hitting 81.6 mph........kinda spooky on front tires that are 7 years old. Buddy of mine hitting 82.5 mph Playing at the saltflats.......I shouldn't have been running my paddles.

Thanks Kevin. I installed the 320s and Pods yesterday, should be going to see how she runs with in the next few hours. I'll let you know what the verdict is. Oh yeah...thanks for getting the last order to me really quick.

I'll try out the Pods and 320s today to see how she runs. I did have a quick question......when I took off the carbs to rejet, the carbs had 180 mains in there. How is it possible to run smaller than stock even adding pipes? The elevation is right at sea level. Is there a big difference going from a 25 pilot to a 27'or 28 pilot?

Haven't messed with any settings. Choke tube is good and connecting to both carbs. Both slides are going the correct directions. I do have one questions........is there a way you could accidently put the slides in backwards even when there is a notch that you have to line the slide up with? I've tried twisting it all types of directions and it only goes in one way. Yeah I trust kevin's recommendations....just curious because it was running fairly rough. The time is at +4 degrees. The quad was running perfectly fine when I tore it down and I haven't messed with the timing plate. Yeah it almost seems like it is running way to rich. By dropping down to a 320.....would it have a big effect only dropping one size? How many people run with out their lid? I actually don't mind running with it.....but I also realized that itll be taking more air in and by taking the lid off it should be less restrictive.

Yeah dallas I was thinking im running rich as well. I wouldn't mind running without a airbox lid but I ride in alot of sand and the lid does help keep the filter some what clean. Just went out there to check my needle clip position and it was on the second notch from the top.....not in the middle.

Hey guys I just got by cylinders back from Herr Jugs Racing and kevin did the MX Hardcore port to them and send me a new topend rebuild kit. Installed everything over the past two days, kevin recommended running a 330 Main with my stock carbs. My mods are FMF Fatties, K&N in a stock airbox, Adjustable timing plate set at +4. After I got it together I fired her up and let her idle for about 10 mins. This morning I woke up and took her for a spin with a new set of plugs with the airbox lid ON......it pretty much ran like crap. Came back and removed the lid and it ran about the same but it would actually get up on the pipe kind of halfass. I'm running the 330 mains with stock pilots (i think 25??) and needle clip in the middle. Haven't messed with the Air/Fuel screws since I tore it down. I live down in South Texas were we are at Sea level and the current temp is around 100 degrees. Im not very good at tuning carbs. What would you guys recommend? Size of jets? A/F Screw? Air box lid on or off? Thanks for the help guys. Not sure if this would help but I was running 180 Main jets, stock pilot, 3rd clip on needle and about 2 turns out on the A/F, before I tore it down. It was running fairly decent when I decided to rebuild.

Anyone????

I have a 2002 Shee that I bought back in October 2008 from a girl that said the motor is 100% and that the banshee has NEVER had a rebuild since brand new. Checked the compression before I bought it and they both read about 140 or so. I had a few tuning problems with it but I eventually got it worked out and ran great. I'm unsure how many hours I've put on it since I bought it but Im pretty sure it is close to 75-90 hours. We usually ride every weekend for about 5 hours, the majority of that time I have the throttle pinned. I've checked the compression here recently and it is about 100 each side. I realize that im probably wayyy over due for a top end job but I keep putting it off because it is still fast enough to out run 450s. Since it hasn't ever been rebuilt, is there anything I should be aware of before I start dissassembling it? Sorry for the book guys but I do have a few questions. This will be my first time rebuilding a top end on a two stroke, is there tips and tricks that I should know before I tear into it? I've helped friends rebuild other two strokes but nothing with twin cylinders and it hasn't ever been from start to finish. I am also fairly mechanically inclinded. Since I'm going to be tearing it to it, I've decide to ship it off to get the bore/hone and most likely dune port job. Figured I might as well spend the extra money to get some more power. Thanks for the help guys

If I remember correctly I think they are 340 mains, middle clip and unsure of the pilots. The airbox lid is on, I've removed the lid but it seems like it losses power.

Carbs have been cleaned throughout and plugs have been changed numerous times. Still cutting out when the shee warms up.

Does anyone have an idea what it could be?

I've been searching the forum but havent had any luck with my problem. When I first fire up the banshee both cylinders fire equally and it runs good. I usually let it warm up for about 5 minutes before I ride it. Soon after I make a few passes down a 200 yard road after it warms up, the right cylinder stops firing at idle and with a little gas. Once it gets on the pipe both cylinders fire correctly and rides normal. After I park it and let it cool down, then fire it up both cylinders fire correctly. What could be the problem? It has something to do with the temp. What do you bansheeHQers think??? Thanks in advance.

Thats a nice set up you have there Blessed. How does it ride with the new relocated lower mounts VS. stock mounts?? Which shocks are you running?

I was able to take it out for a quick spin this afternoon before I punctured one of my BRAND NEW rear tires...... :wallbash: It rides smoother than the YFZ shocks. The LTRs soaked up the whoops, didn't get to hit any real jumps though. Over all I like them better than the YFZs....but I do wish the front of the shee was a tad bit lower, possibly about an inch or inch and a half.

Sorry for all the pics guys but I actually left one out. This next one is a shock comparison. Starting from the left.....Blaster, Banshee, YFZ and LTR

Thats good to know, I'll lurk around YFZ central to see if I could snag some up. In the mean time I figured I would mock up the LTR shocks to see how it actually does with banshee spindles. Suprisingly everything looks good (im sure it'd be alot better with YFZ spindles). I might take it out for a spin tomorrow to see if the handling characteristics are any different. Below are some Before Pics (YFZ arms and shocks) and After Pics( YFZ arms and LTR shocks) BEFORE AFTER

Welllll shit. Do the banshee hubs, rotors and calipers work with the YFZ Spindles? I really don't fell like spending much more on the suspension at the moment.

Looks like i'll be trying on a set of the LTR shocks tomorrow after work. A buddy of mine has them on a blaster and he has been wanting to try the YFZ shocks, so we'll switch them out tomorrow and maybe give them a shot on wednesday. Hopefully they are alot smoother than the YFZs.