AKheathen
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Posts posted by AKheathen
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toomey silencers work better at tightening up fmf pipes. it does make some difference and it does matter how much motor you have. pro circuit silencers more or less will change the sound a bit. sound change comes from pipe and core diameter, lenght, chamber volume, and core design
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it theory, they are supposed to help float the discs. i haven't heard anyone ever confirmed their use either way..
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what exactly did you remove from them? there might be some spark arestors that somone put in them, but if you somehow pulled the cores, then you shot yourself in the foot. pretty sure you still have to cut them off the pipe, though. they will work, but might change the power feel a tad.
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just slide the hub on to hold by hand and watch what is happening. if you adjust it centered, then all it needs to be doing is grabbing the star and moving it just over on of the star legs, then should move back to center and the shift drum/star is supposed to roll over to the next detente as soon as the gears line up. same either direction. if it's doing that, then the shift shaft is working
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Here is what I did to mine.
where is your engine ground now? transient through the motor mount contact? there should be 3 wires coming through your stator harness bare. the floated ground via new wire, existing yellow, and the engine ground (factory)
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i just had to bust out my tape measure....... gotta walk out to the shee later and check, but the old school fmf stingers i was running on the pro-circuits were 1", and some spare pc stingers i have are only 7/8"..... don't think i over-looked that, but i did put them on in a hurry...
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yah, here's a tip: don't host your damn pics on twitter. i still can't get rid of a plug-in that haunts me from clicking those stupid twitter images. bad as aol, i tell you. and then, yah, i have some good tips....
photobucket and you can link pics better. -
are you stock?
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certainly doesn't show signs of the inner hub failing on the splines. the splines are what transfer all the load, even on the pressure plate, which snapped off all the posts. with seeing how worn the basket is, i can only assume the clutch fibres grenaded and grabbed on the pressure plate, pushing it beyond the hub splines with load, to snap the legs off. the screws are just standard metric bolts you can get locally, and put washers on them. don't remember if they were "10.9" or "12.9". should be on the head. just screw one out with a couple vice grips, or something and go match them up. don't forget to match hardness. i know i have extra, but i don't think they are worth digging out and shipping right now...
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they open farther as well, since the stock reed stops are removed, so it will need re jetted but they help lots, carbon fiber reeds are the best
wow, who are you? sure know soooo much in your 9 posts.......
they do as mentioned earlier. change the throttel response. yes, vforce have been known to give a little bit more hp on the topend, but they are a top-end geared crisp reed, and not the end-all world of reeds. you basically pick a reed to suite your ridding style, needs, and budget. softer reeds will give you a more maliable and compliant low-mid throttle, which helps tonnes in more technical ridding. believe it or not, removing stock stops can hurt stock pedal performance. if you have new pedals, that's a different story.
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There is no seperation in pressure inside the crankcase, this is different than compresion. Compresion is only in the topend not the crankcase.
wrong.... because.....vvv
In between the center crank bearings there is a Labyrinth seal.
a labyrinth seal uses oil as the seal to separate right and left. it's sitting there in between the 2 bearings. there should be sealant, or an o-ring on it, to seal against the case, iirc....
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no, you should need pliers to turn it. put the roller back on the star and make sure the claws are centered proeprly. may need a washer on the end of the shift-shaft, or pull the case gasket and use blue silicone sealant. to tighten up the shaft play. check that the drum is not able to move in/out. you will need to rotate the gears while shifting to make them line up.
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put the front about where you want it, and just strap it enough the strap doesn't give, then strap the back about 5-6" compression at the grab. suck the front down about 2 inches and you are done. i always cross-strap like equipment/loads. doesn't go anywhere for me, and ak roads/trails can get pretty rough.
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well, the beauty of the lectron carbs is how absolutely basic they are. some lectrons come, or have installed, with power-jets, but there will be a fuel hose going to them. the screw you are seeing coming from the side of each is simply the slide rest adjustment. screw each one out, while watching the slide drop until the screw does nothing. move the throttle, and listen for a click when the slides hit bottom. if not, the cable will be too tight. once the cable has been adjusted, so there just is no real slack at this point, screw the screws in to about 1/4"-3/16" gap. should be about 1.5 turns from when the slide starts to move, if i remember correctly. fuel adjustments are solely done with the needle choice and height. not knowing what the previous owner has chosen, and if it is correct, you should seek consultation for needle choice. you will need to provide your list of motor related mods, including exactly how your filter system is, what pipes/silencers you run, and anything in between. you will also need to know your elevation and riding temps. last, list your octane fuel and what oil/ratio. the needle number is 3 digits etched on the side. you can simply unscrew the tops and pull up to see the needle. if you think the needle is appropriate, you need only check the "jetting" mixture via a proper plug chop run, and then turn those screws for just high enough hot idle. the adjustment should be done. not having the slides too high should help allowing the choke to operate properly as well.
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batteries still need regular recharging, and dc conversion. only way you can do this without having to always plug in a charger, is to ride around the last 1/2hr+ with no lights, and that's iffy. good news, though, if you go to mr-16's, the bulbs have become real cheap lately
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it seems to be sullied by those thinking it's the repairs and mods section.... who's moding it?
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cheap moon keys will bend and shift on you as well use good ones or oem, are you sure its not a advanced key? "offset for timing changes?
as mentioned, the key is there for allignment purposes only. it fits snug so it won't flop around and wear the groove, but other than that, it might as well be made of plastic. seating is key. a loose flywheel, and deto can go hand in hand. one can cause the other. i've done the heat-seat trick on a camping trip, after i had installed it at home, in the rain, but otherwise don't wish to. i always keep both tapers scuffed with scotch-brite to knock down any imperfections, and install using a hand-impact driver. blue loctite is a must. that one time, i rushed to get her back together when it started raining, i paid for. like 4hours in front of the camp-fire to repair the carbnage, but i made it the rest of the week-end.
one trick to getting them off when stuck, is to drill along the taper (without nicking the shaft) to releive the seating pressure. it really works. and then, heat. always make sure the puller is absolutely seated before putting pressure on the bolt.
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yes, it has tach. iirc, it's the purple wire. could be green. it's been a few years. curve 1 is the most aggressive low-end advance. curve 3 is mild, just a few degrees over stock, tapering higher rpm, and 2 holds a wider mid-range advance, but, imo, in between the 2 for aggression.
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true, most do not need the vent tubes in stock form, and my suggestion is to just run the rear to under the carbs, so you can stand it up on the grab bar and not dump out oil, however, there are the few that need the stock routed full lenght hose, for driving through deep water. in that case, iirc, the rear should enter below the carbs in the center, and cross to the "t" and there are cable retainers that mount to the clutch cover bolts, and it should follow up to the front of steering shaft and "u" at the radiator rt side. it sucks when water gets in and milks up in the window of the lock-up, lol.
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um..... find a better screw-in style momentary switch and install in the housing in a way that works. there are thousands of types available, just look around.
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before handing out high potential advise, it is needed to check what is going on.......
as for the 320's, that does sound pretty close to what pc's sometimes need.
for the oil, look for signs of over-oiling before dropping on the mixture. the best way to see, is to pull the reeds, they are the first to show over-wetting in a more obvious way, but you can go off reading the plugs, and acting symptoms. it may start dropping off at idle and over-smoke, shown with loading the plugs (which may glaze on hard pulls)
the problem with the choke tube, is many noobs will accept it being finiky to start, or even pull-starting, never using the choke, chopy/rough idle/low-end drivability/power, etc to just get out and feel that snap of 2-stroke power. where it is a major problem, is that the right carb has an open hole right into the engine, and the left, if the choke is open. this means, at higher rpms, where you are making power from at least one cyl, at least one is lean as hell, which can aslo make a ton of power, as it melts the piston simultaneously....
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he already set us up for the long-term plan of socialism conformity..... i called it early on..... screw things up enough to get us in a hard enough spot that it is the only sensible resolution....... what else do you think the real reasoning behind stimulous/rebate/credit spending on us was?...... he wanted to give us so much "IOU" to need to figure out how to survive with later. whatahueno later? communion health-care sounds mighty reasonable, lol...it only progresses........ if this was the cold war, he would not even be a free man, simply "detained for questioning" until further notice.
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if there is up-dn play, you will want an e-manual, or clymers, and yamabond, or EQUIVALENT. pull out on the shaft before checking that play, though.... and the bearing is held in by circlips, as with the other trans bearings. the only way to replace them is to split the cases...
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honestly, just look for any chatter wear that may have wore the key thinner. if you don't see any real wear, leave it alone. you will find, if you ever do one with a loose key, that it is a blessing. all the key is there for is initial alignment, and it will rock in the groove, which can be a pill on install. once you properly seat the flywheel, the key does absolutely nothing, and it never should do anything but instal line-up. the most stubborn key will knock right out with a chisel/screw-driver and a hammer no problem. btw- the stock key is the hardest, most durable i have found.
2-5 over ride Trans Question
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
i'm sure it's not supposed to move that much. if you instal a spring, what is going to let it fall out once 5th takes over? do you have another fork to try out? upi may have to have the drum re-welded in the low spot and ground to proper clearance.. also, make sure the drum is fully seated and the retainer is not worn down.