AKheathen
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Posts posted by AKheathen
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well, first is common sense: look for an oily area.......
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one of the 3 arrows at the dot. than back off the clutch cable. tighten the clutch adjuster so the arm on the canse moves 3/8-1/4" aside from the spring pressure on the lever. then adjust the cable so the arrows line up. done.
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it's that way for fluid expansion. obviously, if you know how to ride, the rear can run into fluid at times, and only vent through the water pump cover vent and visa-versa. if you dune/drag, then modding is fine. if you get in the woods, it's best too keep stock.
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one cylinder is usally either an ignition wire cap or uneven gap on the flywheel
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Theyre like fucking cats! If you throw em in the water, they'll screem n fight and bite you....
I run an airbox with a K&N cone w/sock on the inside and another K&N box topper filter, I keep my filters clean and oiled every ride, I don't have problems in water, but then again I don't purposely go flyin off the dock with it either.
sounds like head/head gasket is toast
last time i dug my shee through a couple feet of water and launched out, a buddy with a 400ex stopped and asked me how the hell i did that, lol
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i have no clue what is going on with puking coolant after going through water, but the screaming throttle is the bores icing up. that's it. the only cure is to go with different carbs, 28-30mm works fine. i drive through almost 2' water with no real problems other than the outterwares getting plugged momentarily.
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pink and yellow go to the stator. green is just the timing trigger. you don't need it. black ground and red power dc.
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use a feeler guage and look for a washer that is within 6 and 12 thousandths of the clearance
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lol, last pic posted, left carb was close and right too high. for future reference, 3/16" is starting point and will be high idle. lower to a good idle once warmed up. break-in. let it warm up at idle with some blipping 2x. retorque. do some plug chop runs, and let cool and retorque head. broke in and done.
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post in repairs and mods...... it should have been fixed there, but you didn't do it in the right section, lol. if you are sitting on the bike, lean left like you want to pull a hose off the fuel valve and you should see the little black box. unplug that. more trouble, post in the right section.
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it may, and usually means that the idle mixture is lowering your idle and not the screwes. get it warmed up and adjust the mixture to the high idle and turn the idle screwes down. repeat once you get close to 1300 rpm.
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what i want to do is take a 7-10mill serval and chop the bottom to 4mill, then grunt port.... yeyah
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DOING THIS TOMORROW...
all of my jetski's go counter clockwise for advancement...strange this goes the other way??!!
stator is on the other side vs most sno-go/jet-skis...
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you can also just use the box your spark-plug came in. stick the flap in there and adjust it agaist it. tighten up, and you should be able to pull the flap out. check on both sides. if you are only sparking like every 3rd time, it does sound like your stator is probably shot. that is a sign that the cdi is not being charged fast enough. that could also be a probalem with the flywheel magnets. do not remove the flywheel with anything but the flywheel puller made for it.
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no, bad. you need to keep the black wire in the harness. it is the engine ground, which connects the coil to the head. if you have a mis in one cyk, it will kill the other as well. you should have floated the ground in the stator and ran that to the rectifier allong with the normal output. it would be an added wire, so the black wie can stay stock, where it grounds in the loom clip. from there, you plug the outputs of the regulator/rectifier into the stock system, minus the stock regulator. your rectifier probably has 2 outputs. one for battery, and one for feed, then a shared ground. if not, i suggest using the brown and red wires in the keyswitch to feed the battery, or a relay, or install a switch somewhere.
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that's classic example of "sucked a ring land" usually from deto. likely got cold and either the jetting wasn't comphenasted, or the oil was separating.
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i lube my cable with the same oil i put in the trans.
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i would start by ohming. sounds like possibly a plug cap, or the plug wire, but it could also be explained if the plug is not firing. what do the plugs look like? that tells allot. have you even checked that there is good blue spark?
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you can use a stock one. might be able to exchange those for ones with tabs, or someone might have some laying around. the stock deflectors, or one, will work, and you can even bend and/or cut them.
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if you are feeling at the pertch(bars), then yah, it's pretty soft to over-ride that case lever spring, but will get hard when you actually start moving the clutch out. if you are pushing at the case, then it should put some fair denting in your thumb/finger. i sometimes grab a screw-driver to push with, and i'm a heavy duty mechanic. with the cable off, you should not be able to push it more than 1/4" from resting without adding leverage, like a big screw-driver, or prybar, etc.
cable lube is just as immportant as oil changes/greasing, and that goes the same for the carb cables. do not hook the cable back up untill your clutch itself is in adjustment. then, hook it up and line up the arrows
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put that whole spare assy. in and compare to a break-down of the parts and how they all go in, and pay close attention. see if you can make that work before dumping more money in.
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sounds too me like your clutch pusher is backed off too far. without the cable, the lever on the case should move 1/4-1/8" and has a spring on it that is pretty hard to push past, but do-able by hand for most. then, attach/adjust the cable
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psh, with just the threads below the pin hole holding good, you could even ride it that way. might be a little tricky to not cross-thread the nut going on, though.
Bearing
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
check the oil passage from the cyclinder opening.