AKheathen
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Posts posted by AKheathen
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no pics of this stuff? nobody is going to respond without pics, other than like i do, to tell you to post pics. in my opiniion, drop another 5, too, for most of it.
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note, those tires are syped, which makes a huge difference on some terrain, without harming the tires. average cost is 30ea, plus any cleaning hourly. free bump
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what kind of deal on the master cyl cover and duncan intakes?
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i run a dd. the cover is more bling to spring for, but really, it is bling points. i find people can't stop pointing it out and bragging it up, more than the fingers that warrent it. rule of thumb: up to 80hp, you can possiblyt get away with full had springs. 60hp, need at least 2hd springs. 50+ can benifit a lockup, and still get an easy-pull. 80hp+ best to just get a lock-up. if you don't get that with 421cub, you fail.
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use the black/red wire for the kill-switch, if it opens to kill, and the black/white wire to kill if it closes to kill. to make it run, the red/black needs to be grounded to black, and the black/white needs to not be connected.
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if the screw-driver trick doesn't get it, back off the drain screw more than 2 turns and let the debris flow out, may have to open the fuel to flush it. tighten the drain screw and try again. when you get the chance, pull that one bowl off and check that the floats are free, and pin not walked out. also, that the bowl is clean
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slack off the cable, move the clutch lever in the case by hand. you will feel the spring on it, and not be bale to release the clutch at all, but should still be able to move the lever by hand with effort. hard by hand, easy with pliers. adjust the clutch plate so that it will only move in the free-paly range of 1/8-1/4" closer to 1/4"the better. if the adjuster is in pretty far, then ther clutch is not installed right. you should see threads on the screw.
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i use a spark-plug sctrewed in to pop them out when it's time. if they are tight enough not to wear the bore/dome, then they will not fall out without assistance. "it's a good thing"
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okay guys. if your stator does not look like the one in the pic, with that cream, thick potting on it, or the connection is differnt, etc, it is not stock. yes, many aftermarket stators simply have an eyelet at the end, screwed into the metal. this is actually easier, as you can un-solder the eyelet and add a wire without messing with the potting "goo" another trick if the potting is difficult, is to heat it up with a micro-torch, and it comes off real easy, like skin on fried chicken, but cleaner. if you have a high output stator, and comes new with 2 yellow (or any color extra wire) a floating is still needed, but a second rectifier is needed to use full power. you can use a sno-go rectifier/regulator, or basically any orv reg/rec aftermarket, or factory, as long as it has the 2 inputs and 2 dc outputs (sometimes battery and power are provided, making 3 out)
the stock stator dc, or ac is good for 70watts. it can reach around 100watts at high rpms, but generally powers 70watts. rectifiers average a drop in voltage in the .5-1v range, but still useable, over 13v for the most part off-idle.
don't think anyone will do this, but keep the black wire in the harness the way it is. it connects the wire clip as a ground for the engine (spark) and should not be modified from harness ground.
any more ??'s?
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again, you still don't understant. tuned pipe, is an add-on to two stroke. detroit never even had a tuned pipe, just forced induction. every 2-stroke is forced induction, at least i have never seen one, but it would have to be something like that old tractor monstor 1cyl that red-lined at something like 40rpm, and would need an insane bore/stroke ratio, so it can compress that 14.7 good enough to burn good enough, while sitll getting good clean-out. i've run pipe-less 2-strokes. they sound pretty mean, and are fun for a couple min, but nothing like adding a pipe to them..... here, study this for a while. you might get some idea of how shit flows..... in fact it looks a lot like your blaster motor. actually, to be more specific, i have even rode my banshee with no exhaust at all 2x, amoung other things. even rode a 2004 liberty600 strait-piped (don't ask).....Check out 2 stroke engine designs before the 1961 grandprix when Suzuki got their hands on tuned pipe technology. They still ran.... Granted, not with nearly as much power output but they run just the same. In fact, if you took your banshee and put a straight pipe on it (no stuffing at all) it would still run (like shit, but run just the same).
If you'll read back through, this is for a general understanding of how the engine works and not specific information.
Go ahead, tear down the post because I used an incorrect term and not add anything at all about your understanding of how they work. Please, enlighten us as to how they work. I'm sure there are many members who would appreciate you straightening it all out.
iff you will read what i said, "general understanding......" is what i have already addressed. do you have a paypal acount with large amonts of funds to support your "info" so vounerable members who scrap their motor on your info can live thier "learning experiences" that show how full of shit you are? bottom line, you do not know yet how a 2-stroke really works, even on the basic level, and should not be trying to teach others what you have learned while expanding your mind over a bowl.
it's not just that you used an incorrect term, it's that you defended it to the death, rather than just admitting the first, or secont time that you read/heard an incorrect term and refused to belive what people who actually know what is what was telling you. truth is, the "Term" is just a factor. your whole sum of information de-railed from trying to simply explain squish, to taking understanding 2-stroke operation down a whole different path from what is real/fact. by the way- it think einstine said it best: if you cannot explain something simply, you do not understand it well enough. so here is your simple explanation: air is drawn in dirrung an up-stroke to fill the case. reed, or crank interferance/air velocity combo helps to hold that air in the crank-case, where it is compressed and injected on the downstroke via the bottom of the piston. when the transfer port passages are clear of the piston, the compressed charge is forced to the top of the chamber and compressed quickly by the piston moving up and "closing" off all ports before the pressure can escape (higher exhaust pressure helps this). it is ignited for the big push, where it exits, and the begining process has alreay half-completed for the next cycle.
simple tuned pipe function: exhast exits, creating a wave, the length and volume of pipe sets the time for it to reach the rear of the chamber, where a portion "bounces" back to the cylinder. this timing, sets the rpm range that the pulse will reach the cylinder again, and, if the exhast port is clear, it will further stuff the cylinder with pressure.
simplest expanation of 2-stroke: air/fuel mixture enters crank, and bottom of piston pushes to top of piston. squish-bang, and bounce in exhaust to do it again.
i honstly did not want to tell you anything, because, i know you are going to want to keep posting every little thing like a tweet, as you learn it. and you will not put in the work to learn it as you "teach" it. by doing your research, even just this section, you could get a clue. i implore you: learn from us first. i think you can have the potential to be a helpfull entheusiastic member within a few months, but you are head-strong down the wrong path.
PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT:
I have been fore-warned by a blaster forum mod, after my initial attempts, that this guy is basically another "SLORIDER" in training, and was run from the blaster forums. those who have been here a couple years or more know who i'm talking about. those who don't, well basically a crusader down the worst path, and eventually nothing but a plauge on the site. would be nice to see this turned around. we will see...
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sould be fine, if you clean them up good and make sure there are no burrs, that you push them in by hand. just tight enough to nill any chafing
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are you saying you regret going that route?
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so, they are being used with current limitation. in rc, they are typical with brushless in the begining, which comes inheirently with the 3-phase controller to make it work. what i was worried is if they were being free-ran like a standard battery
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you can't swap heads. the banshee cylinders actually has smaller water jacket profile, but the lack of pv to take displacement, and the head about 1/3 the coolant passage. the mating surface has larger coolant passages, and that is why you cannot swap heads. the 350lc should be that same rz basic head design, which is why it looks different. the correct phrase here is that "top-ends" will swap.The RD came first, it was air cooled and did not have power valves. The RZ came next, and it was liquid cooled and had powervalves. Then they came out with the Banshee and it did not have powervalves but it is liquid cooled. In some countries the RZ was sold as a RD350LC, but it still had powervalve and was liquid cooled. Now, Banshee cases are the same casting as RZ cases, they just did not machine the tach drive hole or the pad for the Autolube pump. You can bolt RZ cylinders on a Banshee and the head should go either way. Very little if anything from an aircooled RD will fit on a Banshee. When they modified the liquidcooled RZ to use it in the Banshee, they did away with the powervalves to increase the size of the water jacket for botter cooling. This also neccisitated that they go to a close ratio transmission so it did not fall off the powerband when shifted.
there we go.RD350LC = "Elsie" is a liquid cooled but no YPVS.
RD350 LCII 31K and up is RZ350 (USA) RD350 (Europe) with YPVS.
I had 1983 RD350 YPVS 31K but lost it last year.... damn I want it back.
just do an rz swap, unless you are going to run it at road-speeds almost all the time. then you can tell people it's "limited edition"
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a cool guy that may, or may not be named cameron.... keep up
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whaen you get a new crank, first figure what you want. the crank will come in one piece, and no case mods are needed until you go bigger, like over 7mm stroker,iirc. however, the pistons and cylinders/head need to match the new crank. if you stay stock stroke, that's easiest and cheapest. what are your goals, and have you done a bunch of searching? list current setup as well, including what pipes, carbs and airbox setup.
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well, buy a new one then. first mods, once you ride it a bit and get used to it, is figure out what kind of pipes you want, and what chassis mods. take the time to piece together a build for more motor, and do it all in one shot later down the road.
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i'm curious, too, how the pull is compared to the arm setup i have. just hard as hell to pull it at high trans rpm, but works just fine in the woods for mei run a sling shot with half the balls and stock springs. been fine so far.
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haha, i do this every time i plug in a new set of led christmass or rope lights. what's cooler, you can see them phase on/off and which lights are different polarity when wearing 3d shutter glasses.... cheap entertainment ftwSolder an led on the end of a ac power cord. Plug it in and swing it around in a circle. You can really see the 60hz affect. The circle is made up of a bunch of dashes.
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no, you are still speaking out of your ass, and making me read a bunch of incorrent info. you still never want pre-ignition. pre-ignition, by definition, is unwanted ignition that occours before intended. a pre-power stroke/cumbustion effect that happens while intended is different. if you knew how a 2-stroke works, then, you should know that it has little to do with volumetric efficiency and will not run from natural piston aspiration. every single 2-stroke runs because the cylinder is stuffed.
"the entire point of the thread is for people who don't know better, blah blah blah" well, when the info written contains large amounts of incorrect info from another who "does not kinow better", then it starts people off in the wrong direction. some of us have literally spent years on this site daily, and other sites, and there are many like you who want to "educate before learning. i understand that teaching others is a good way for some people to learn themselfs, but i'm doing my due dilligence to curtail damage. what you do not realize that incorrect info, actually does cost many people large ammounts of money that they cannot aford. we have seen it hundreds of times. anyone not knowing better and taking all your info as total truth will be 10x the work to turn them around than what it would take to point them in the right direction in the first placce, or tell them nothing at all.
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DIG MAN DIIIIIGGGG!!!!It just means that an spark ignited engine is supposed to be "fired" by the spark plug. Other things can start the ignition event other than the ignition system. Basically, all other sources of ignition (also know as preignition
@ sprinklerman) are negative and cause a loss of power or engine longevity.
actually, detonation can occour after any ingnition, which would include, and actually most likely to occour with, pre-ignition. simply, an abnormal burn.im not a grammer expert,,believe me. what im refering to is the fact that is simply detonation..not "pre detonation) detonation,by its very definition is this (cut and paste) >
Detonation Detonation is the spontaneous combustion of the end-gas (remaining fuel/air mixture) in the chamber. It always occurs after normal combustion is initiated by the spark plug. The initial combustion at the spark plug is followed by a normal combustion burn. For some reason, likely heat and pressure, the end gas in the chamber spontaneously combusts. The key point here is that detonation occurs after you have initiated the normal combustion with the spark plug.
Pre-ignition Pre-ignition is defined as the ignition of the mixture prior to the spark plug firing. Anytime something causes the mixture in the chamber to ignite prior to the spark plug event it is classified as pre-ignition. The two are completely different and abnormal phenomenon.
So you see, there IS no such thing as "pre" detonation. Im not trying to nit-pick you,im just asking that when great info is being dispensed ,that it be accurate. The point of dispensing info is to educate guys like me and others,,so lets make sure we are being educated with ACCURTE info. Thats all im saying. Honestly,Thanks again!
:facepalm:I see what you are referring to but take a look at the Merriam Webster (arguably the final point in all definition arguments) definition:
Detonation:
1 : the action or process of detonating
2 : rapid combustion in an internal combustion engine that results in knocking
According to their definition, we are both incorrect and the detonation is actually the event you refer to as "pre-ignition" and I am referring to as "predetonation".....
How about we chock that up to a grey area as far as the terms are concerned? Is it safe to say that we can assume that all references in the information listed above to "predetonation" are referring to "detonation" as in the harmful "preignition" of the fuel and air mixture before the normal timed ignition event by the spark plug?
no. nobody who actually knows this stuff will ever agree with you that pre-detonation has any merrit as a word/termAgreed, I doubt "Webster" was a gearhead....
Let's just agree that all references to "predetonation" listed apply to all forms of negative parasitic ignition events that are not initiated by the ignition system.
i support this message.This thread sucks.
don't worry. he doesn't either.I have no idea what that means
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not a grammar lesson. pre-detonation is a made-up word, and has no definition.... well, maybe in the urban dictionary.I'm assuming that you are referring to my seemingly incorrect grammar. If not, please elaborate on your concern.
It can also be pre-detonation as the "pre" is a prefix (note prefix DOESN'T use the hyphen), however it is not incorrect to use the term as "predetonation" either. You MUST use the hyphen before anything starting with an "e" but it NOT required before a consonant. Let's not get bogged down in grammar class, however.
The point is, there is A LOT going on inside of a combustion chamber while an engine is running. Really, the two threads I've posted are just a "primer" to the real processes anyway in an effort to avoid confusion.
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sorry, i only got as far as a few words into the second post. not trying to be a dick, but you should try and learn how a 2-stroke really works. let me give you a couple hints: you never want detonation, ever. even in a diesel, what you could technically call detonation, is really still labled as ignition. (pre-detonation is a made-up word as well). if all the cylinder got to compress was 14.7psi, it would never run on anything less volatile than acetalene. these are obvious things. spend a month learning from this site. the real info is posted all over. you are playing with the big-boys now.
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what is the purpose/build of the motor? most will benefit long-rod. high-reving, low-mass needs would be where a sort-rod would come into play. by hig-reving, i mean well over 11,000rpm's. a short-rod could be built to last a while, but for an off-track rig, i would mostly just stick with the long-rod. it is what 90% of 4mills are for a reason.
Bunch of parts for sale
in For Sale - Parts & Accessories
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$5 for the bad stator?