BenBB
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Posts posted by BenBB
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I'd suspect the clutch especially given you said it's not disengaging (??)...kinda fine darkish particles are more or less normal clutch wear, but any kinda metal shavings or chunks ain't so good. I'd pull off the clutch cover (RH side of bottom end, need to remove the RH footpeg then the kicker then drain the coolant 'cause the front of that cover is where the water pump lives) and take a look, it could be shavings from the clutch basket fingers or the steel clutch plates or just the fibers...could always be worse tho. Definitely scope out the disengagement ball and rod and adjuster too. Good luck.
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I found where I got that billet clutch basket, it was a Magnum and I got it from F.A.S.T., cost $195 with freight and that little kickstarter idler bastard bushing :biggrin:
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Ray (Minkia38 on here) has yer tranny dude, $140:
And shift forks, drum, rails for $40:
And a set 'o cases for $225:
That's like what, $405 plus freight...you want me to call R&S and price those Yammie clutch parts??? You could call Ray, he's a good guy, might make you a package deal and damn sure save you some freight if you got all that at once...and you could still sell what you got for some cabbage too. I scoured ebay for RZ shift forks & drum and didn't find shit but if it was me I'd find them somewhere. Gimme a call when you find somethin' out...
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Hey here's an oooold post I saved from back in the day:
Posted on 15-Feb-02 03:02 PM
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I used Permatex MotoSeal from Napa with no probs, like 2stroke said just get it evenly on one side and carefully set the other side on it...
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D34 had some kind of setup like that on his TT Banshee, although I'm not real sure how it worked. Never seen a kit but aren't all Polaris utilitie quads using just one master cylinder to brake front & rear? Doesn't look any bigger to me, betcha it's just a tee and longer rear line as others mentioned. I would be willing to bet that if you just went with all stainless braided lines and teed into the fronts like right above the splitter it would work perfect with just the stock KFX master cyl...
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Great vid, those are some seriously fast dudes. Damn nice Banshees too heh, I thought the red one with fullbores got caught in the pileup on the first turn but he was ahead of 'em :happy:
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Try a penny or a rag between the crank drive gear and the clutch basket driven gear...
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Dude that fucking BLOWS. That's why it pays to be tight with your UPS guy, I get all my shit delivered to work and they take care of it, at least once it hits my town I know it's ok heh. I'd be tracking down that delivery dude ASAP and ask him what's up while he might remember who/where/WTF happened. Good luck.
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Fronts reach but the splitter tee doesn't really have anywhere good to mount, on mine it kinda hangs just below the radiator...
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Old plugs look decent, on the rich side but that's safer than way lean or something. New plugs look good to me, again rich-ish but not horrific. It would be way worse to see light gray (lean) or silver specks (piston/ring damage). Plus in the conditions you're ridin' in where you might not have a whole lotta opportunities to get air flowing over the radiator, on the rich side will help keep the motor cooler...
Not to sound condescending but it IS gonna run alot different than garden-variety 4-strokes...shee's don't like lugging and are only really happy when wailing (clutch slipping skills are essential in trails to keep it in the sweet spot of the power, up to that point there's not much to speak of). That said, 2-strokes also will give ya a shot of adrenaline and a half if you take the time to tinker with the jetting, don't be afraid to try different jets (just don't like drop in 420 mains and think you're gonna get more power because there's more fuel heh, work with one circuit at a time and one step at a time).
Ok, if it was mine, I'd start with the airscrews and get rid of the bog off idle; try going out (leaner) a half turn and see if it improves, if so try a little more until you like it, if not try going in (richer). It doesn't take much adjustment to make a difference so don't go crazy on them, and keep in mind when the temps/humidity take a big swing you'll probably need to play with them again. Next see if it still bogs in mid-throttle, if so try adjusting the needle clip position and see if you can eliminate it, if not you may need to concentrate on the mains and make 100% sure they are dialed in before returning to the needle clip position. Your jetting is probably close just looking at the plugs, maybe rich but in tight trails the last thing you want to do is go too lean so be careful dropping your main size...at the very least be very wary of any indications of leanness like backfire, overheating, revving high & fast with no power. Since it sounds like you've still go the airbox lid on, you could try 240's and see how it does, it might be perfect or it might be too lean, give it a shot and if there's any question switch it back. Hope this helps man, good luck.
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Damn wacko that's one custom-ass box LOL!! Looks like it would be perfect though, UPS ain't lyin' about your package must be able to withstand a 2' drop to concrete...more like 3'...
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I'd just plug it...actually if it didn't air down overnight or less I'd just air it up every time...
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Damn you got lucky, good thing the chickenshit bastard couldn't get it started. I'd be eternally grateful to that neighbor as well :biggrin:
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Definitely invest in a Clymer manual or download a copy. There's no neutral switch (although there's provision for it on the white plastic cap behind the front sprocket), and there's no switch on the clutch perch (there might be for the e-brake but it doesn't detect clutch in or out) so it doesn't care what gear you're in or if the clutch is pulled in or not to start. If you have spark it's either an issue of fuel like you suspect, or air (clogged filter/obstruction in intake tract), or compression; if you have all four of those it oughta run...get the jetting just right and it'll scream.
The no shifting issue...did it do that when it was running? Just sitting on the bench or in the quad without running, it usually won't shift gears without at least rotating the motor by hand. Try that first, use the kickstarter to slowly turn the motor over, you should be able to shift between all 6 gears. If that doesn't work, most likely it's just the internal shift pawl, but before you take off the RH clutch cover on the case make sure the little splines on the shift lever itself aren't stripped, if that's loose it'll act similarly. If that's tight you'll need to pull the clutch cover and have a look at the shift shaft/star and hopefully get it back on the dowel (find a picture it'll help ALOT) without having to take out the clutch pack. If that checks out ok it could be a bent shift shaft or forks...not a big deal just takes some work to get into, try to rule out the simple/accessible things first and go from there. Good luck.
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:yelrotflmao:
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Stock pistons are cast aluminum, Vitos/Wisecos are forged aluminum, others here can tell ya better what to look for but my stockers were darker and heavier than the Wisecos I replaced them with; find a scale and see how they compare...I think you got shafted tho, the 29L is a Yamaha casting and I would think a Vito's crank would use Wiseco Hot Rods...
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So...new harness, no TORS, new coil & plugs, new stator, flywheel ok, not CDI...have you checked the stator with an ohmmeter? Can you do it cold and then do it again when hot when it won't spark and compare the readings? Have heard of some cases of new stators being DOA or doing funky shit, yours could be one of 'em. I wouldn't worry about the volt reg it's not part of the ignition circuit just the lighting, but the symptoms you describe don't really match anything...hope you find it tho, good luck.
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That's sneaky :cool: Great job on it :beer:
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LOL time of the month :yelrotflmao: My favorite euphemism is "trolling for vampires" :ermm:
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I see in your pic u have positive offset wheels, that may have a little to do with it. And check that rotor to make sure its not bent.
I agree there, actually look at the caliper backing plate even closer, mine got tweaked pretty hard when the first one broke, just exactly where yours did but I was going through a long set of whoops...wound up upside down in a fuckin' thorn bush lol! The second one broke in the cast upright just above the spindle shaft, snapped clean and was still working ok (I wasn't pushing it hard just preriding the course) but making a strange clicky noise. Really wierd but both were stockers on my '96 so I'm sure they had some miles on 'em. You're one of very few I've ever read or heard about breaking them so I think chances are good it prolly won't happen again...and better on the side you're replacing :happy: I swapped mine for YFZ450 spindles which are aluminum but still have the steel shaft so they may or may not last better (hope so); had to use 450 hubs though they won't interchange :sad: I haven't raced since last year so I haven't had a chance to really torture test them :
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That blows, but at least ya got it back (most of that'll buff right out heh). Realistically though...yer not gettin' shit from the guilty, you're better off investing in chains/vicious dogs/firearms. Especially if it was done by juveniles, the juvenile law is beyond ridiculous, they can literally get away with murder (two years in tha county? please). The best part is when they violate probation, they get...more probation! Wow that works fuckin' great!!
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Cable broke maybe? Does it move the clutch arm? Did you adjust the internals or just the perch?
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Looks like they aren't makin' the 300cc anymore (www.gasgas.com), looked like a decent quad but parts are prolly hard to come by. There was one in Huevos 7 or 8, it's blue and has a kinda curvy front plastic, anyway a guy raced one here in the desert and it did ok, from what I hear it was fast and the factory Ohlins suspenion was very good...
CLANK NOISE COMING FROM THE REAR END...
in General Banshee Discussion
Posted
Axle carrier adjusters/bolts? Might be axle bearings or loose axle nut...or loose hub nuts, or wheel nuts...