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BenBB

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Posts posted by BenBB

  1. Does anybody run a full RZ motor.

    A RZ weighs 330 lb and had a claimed top speed of 115mph. Way faster than a Banshees top end.

    Just wondering how the RZ transmission performed off road.

     

    No problems here with the tranny, between the RZ forks/drum, a modded shift star, and backcut gears mine shifts smooth and I rarely miss a gear. The ratios are a little different but I hardly notice.

  2. That round powervalve housing should have a plastic cam thing for the cable ends and it should be secured to the powervalves (which should turn freely), there should be two cables going to a servo motor, and wiring from the motor to the PV control box...and of course ya gotta have RZ stator/flywheel, CDI, voltage regulator and battery (or eliminator). Banshee harness ain't gonna cut it without some heavy modification, and unless you use a zeeltronic PV controller/CDI the Banshee stator isn't gonna work either (someone correct me if I'm wrong but last I heard you could get away with Banshee stator and zeeltronic boxes).

  3. Was that $2k from Works for Steelers or a higher grade of Works shocks? Honestly I don't think you're gonna find a better price than Works, and not like you're gonna find 'em used...I'd call and ask for Sandy in engineering, 818-826-1010 if you haven't already, he has the dimensions. Just guessing but you oughta be able to get all three shocks direct for about a grand, maybe fifteen hundred at the outside (think I paid around $450 a pair for the last sets of fronts I got, triple rate w/rezzy and 17-ish inches long for yfz450 arms, did get a discount but it wasn't like half price or anything). Good luck (yes I'm jealous haha! Post some pics when it's done!!!).

  4. but if you whatch the tutorials it talks about the free ride option

     

    I saw that too, mine's the PC version, still have the last series to go (WANT Banshee Fullbores haha!) and I'm not seein' any free ride...but damn it's still lotsa fun :biggrin:

  5. I agree an impact is the easiest way to get it off, works for going back on also but ya may or may not have it torqued just right (use loctite just in case, I had one come off a 250R and had to push the bitch home). Strap wrench will work but can slip and bust some knuckles. I made a tool, there's some pics in the electrical FAQ below but here's one:

     

    tool2.jpg

  6. That's certainly not a bad price, I'd be inclined to call/email and ask them what brand they were, but that's just me, even the cheap ones will last a while. Here's some bearing numbers if you want to shop around:

     

    Front wheel hub bearings

    Inner 6004

    Outer 6202

     

    Front wheel hub seals. (inner x outer x depth)

    Inner 22mm x 35mm x 7mm

    Outer 22mm x 35mm x 7mm

     

    So to do both front hubs you need to buy two of everything

     

    Axle Carrier Bearings - 2 by 6007RS

     

    Seals (inner x outer x depth)

    62 x 42 x 8

    62 x 43 x 8

     

    BTW if the rear hubs have play just yank the cotter pin and torque the piss out of the bolts until the castle nut holes line up again and re-cotter it. Good luck.

  7. I got my eye on this one, think I'll grab one soon:

     

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16822136227

     

    That FreeAgent looks good, although most external HDDs have to have a separate power cord/brick, the one above gets power thru the USB cord, only one like it I've seen so far. Backing up to DVD isn't a bad idea but they suffer the same shortcomings of any other optical media, scratches get you a nice coaster and not yer data. Of course I've also heard that hard drives are more prone to failure than any other component (in my experience they aren't mebbe I'm just lucky), so your best bet is not to put all your eggs in one basket; cram as much as you can on your pod, keep a copy of all of 'em (ideally) on your hard drive and back it all up once in a while to an external, you should be good to go.

  8. Holy death machine batman!! :blink: J/K I'm curious what you have in mind for bodywork...and what yer gonna do with it, but anyway. What year was the frame? I see heims on the upper a-arms, you can check those and others by wiggling the tires and looking for play. You might check ebay for a "kit" although you'd probably be money ahead buying them (yes there are bearings and seals, depends on which ones specifically some are sealed bearings, there's a few o-rings, lip seals, etc. etc.) from a local bearing supplier, in general Japanese and German bearings (SKF, Fafnir, etc.) are worth paying extra for instead of Chinese or Thai stuff. I've only had axle bearings fail on my '96, although I've replaced front hub seals and regreased the front hub bearings. The a-arms look relatively new, that would be one of my biggest concerns coming apart at speed heh. Good luck.

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