wayfast1500

Check the clutch cable I was having the same issue and my tors was deleted, couldnt figure it out, but turns out I had a metal cover on my clutch cable, when I pulled the clutch in the put it in gear, the cable would ground the coil out.

aircraft stripper works well, If you decide to sand it be careful you can leave sandmarks in the base metal which will show through. A scotch brite pad on a die ginder always worked for me and didnt leave marks. But its been said you dont need to get to the base metal, just scuff all the loose stuff off, prime, paint.

I need a set of J-arms, extended is prefered with tie rods and tight ball joints. Have almost enough extra parts to build another shee so let me know what you need in trade for the j-arms. I know I have a set of front suspension parts for a newer a-arm banshee that I cant use because I have j-arms, stock set of pipes, real sweet boost bottle, extra engine, lots of carbs, coils, few cdi boxes ect. Let me know, need them asap.

Ive had real good luck with dupont automotive paint. Its pretty cheap, avalible at any auto supply store, goes on pretty heavy. Ive done motorcycle tanks with it, spilled gas on it, didnt ruin the paint at all, got a dent in a tank, used a pops-a-dent to pull it out, paint didnt pull off. For the money it works real well I just did mine with it. Its the same blue, but I used a black primer in the front and white in the rear to give it a different shade, and the orange on the swingarm is a high temp engine block paint.

Yea I knew it was way out before I opened it up the indicators were almost perpendicular from each other.

My banshees clutch randomly stopped engaging last time I rode it. Even just pushing the bike the clutch wouldnt engage, no previous slipping just completely stopped when I was going up a hill. Pulled the carbs off, saw it was out of adjustment, pulled the cover off to adjust it, Noticed the locknut was recessed in the hole in the pressure plate I think its missing the washer, and the adjustment screw was backed out all the way. With it backed out all the way I could move the plates around in the basket by hand, they wernt under any pressure. The oil did have a burnt smell to it, do you guys think its blown or if I put the washer under the lock nut it will take up that extra slack? Bike was running and ripping wheelies so it wasnt slipping before.

Ive used the black paint, it works well just make sure you prep it good.

I just sent a email to see if he still has it. I told him I was really interested in it. Wait and see what happens

I figured thats what would happen I think im just going to run it as is, the bearings didnt feel worn so ill worry about it when they are.

right its a punch. It spins, I can even spin it with my finger it just will not come out.

I was afraid of mushrooming the end. I had the nut on it but still didnt want to crush threads and what not. I broke a drift inside the hole could hitting the drift in the hole caused that first inch to expand and keep it from comming out? It seems to be catching far before any area would have expanded tho so I dont think I could have expanded it?

I was stripping down the shee to paint the frame and put new bushings and bearings in and I could not get that pivot bolt out if my life depended on it. Ive taken about 100 of these out on misc bikes before and never had a issue, I tried every trick in the book on this one and could only get it to budge about 1/8 of a inch. Anyone have any ideas? I tried soaking it with pb blaster, tapping it with a rubber mallet, putting the impact on it to get it to spin, impact and tap the end, 5lb mini sledge, 5lb sledge and impact, pneumatic hammer. I cant think of anything else, Im afraid to use heat.

I have a 1990 with j-arms. the ball joints are shot, I know your not suppose to be able to replace the ball joints on the banshee. I dont have cash for a new set and buying used will probably put me in the same position Im already in now. I was looking at the stock ones today I think their just pressed in then have a fillet weld going around it, so I was thinking about cutting the weld and cleaing up the hole and putting new ball joints in. Is there any type of ball joint that would fit in there that would make this possible? I have access to a shop so maching out a sleeve or welding one in isnt a issue.

Im at sea level plus or minus Im running fmf fatties with power core 2's and k&n pods stock pilot jet, 1.5 turns out on the air screw and 310 mains.

Only reason the 302 ford can make more power than chevys boat anchor 305 is because the 302 has a bigger stroke. If its a truck I'm all ford, if its performance I'm a chevy guy. I must admit I would love to own a mustang tho. I just got rid of the firebird I built up, for my banshee actually. I bought it as a 1988 305 formula ws-6. Built a 350 for it with a voodoo cam, elelbrock intake, holley 4bbl double pumper carb, mallory fuel pressure regulator, centerforce clutch, b&m short throw shifter, bored .030 over. I did a bunch of other things to it also. As much as I love my banshee when its running correctly but I do regret getting rid of that car.

The axles bent, new tire, rim, all brakes. The 2g was including labor and the tow too. If I end up paying for it ill just get a full axle out of a junk yard and just buy a new tire and rim, it will only take a few hours to swap it out there isnt much to it.

i have insurance but i have a clean record so i dont want to make a claim over this

I just bought a 98 ram 1500 sport with the 5.9 in it, truck had 94,000 when I bought it 6 weeks ago. I was driving it this morning going to school on the highway, the rear left tire flew off as I was doing 70mph. The state police had it towed, I called the dealership that I bought it from, they picked it up. Their telling me that theres 2g worth of damage but their not going to cover it because they cant see anything they did wrong. All 5 of the studs snapped off, brake drum flew off, tire is gone. Only thing I can think of to cause all 5 studs to snap like that was they over torqued the tire on when they did the pre sale inspection and since today was the first time I had a load in the truck on the highway (my atv--yamaha banshee so it isnt too heavy) it put too much stress on the studs and snapped them. I havnt nor has anyone else taken the tires off since I bought it, I was thinking of taking a broken stud and a good stud to school and putting them in the hardness tester to prove they over torqued the studs and caused them to weaken? I need some ideas on how to get them to cover the damages they caused. http://s76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...1223323126.jpg http://s76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...1223322877.jpg

Yea Ill end up making them exactly like the stock ones to keep everything the same and just put a removable ball joint in so I wont have to replace the whole thing again.

that sounds good, Im just looking for the cheapest alternative. The sets I found are all in the $500.00 range, and I think I can make my own for less than half that.

what would I use for balljoints?

I have a 1990 banshee with the front j-arms. I have a full shop I can use which has every welding process in it along with a few mills and lathes. The front j arms are bent somewhere, and the ball joints are junk. Is there a universal ball joint I can buy that will either be able to press in the stock j-arm, or I could build my own j-arm around it? I need a new front setup and I dont see spending the expense of buying one when I can just make my own.

heli coils have always worked well for me in situations like that.

I was playing around with the ohm meter, found a short in one of the yellow wires. I tore the harness apart fixed about 15 potential issues I found, some p.o hacked that harness bad, grounds put in where they shouldnt be ect. Im surprised it ran, put the harness back in and she fired right up. I just have a few small things do to and its good to go!

Checked all switches and wiring. Caps were switched with 1 brand new set and 2 used sets. I was kicking it in the dark today and noticed arcing off the frame, I couldnt pin point where it was from but im thinking its a short or loose ground. I gotta go through all the wiring and just make sure everything is to a tee with the book. The P.O hacked the wiring but it ran so I think I need to rewire it the right way.