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Thought so, that's what all of the reviews have said too... Thanks, Anthony

Thanks a bunch, didn't even see it... Anther question, are these worth a sh*t? Yamaha Banshee Boost Bottle

Anyone have a link for this Chariot timing plate? I can't seem to find one. Thanks, Anthony

Thanks for the info man...I had the same feeling about it being cast...

From what I understand, the timing plate isn't seen, so what is the advantage with going with a high dollar billet timing plate? Is the Ricky Stator timing plate woth a da*m? I've read a couple of negative threads about Ricky Stator parts, but none specifically about the timing plate? Which one do you guys prefer? What else could I do to get a noticable power increase? The timing plate, and set it at +4? Anything else bolt-on that will add a good amount of power? My current setup: 2002 Yamaha Banshee NOSS Coolhead w/ 21cc Domes FMF Fatty Exhaust w/ CoreII silencers K&N Filter K&N PowerLid Boyesen Carbon Fiber Dual Stage Reeds 300 Mains 25 Pilot Needle in 3rd clip

Question, and a it's not a smart ass question, but an honest question. Why do FMF and K&N send such big jets with their systems? Like 340's and 350's. If 300's are fat, I can't imagine why they'd send even bigger ones.

Just to make sure I understand this correctly, 340's to 360's on the mains? I've had a few guys tell me that they thought the 300's were a bit fat, but thst was also before the head and reeds install. What are your approximate thoughts on the air crew? 2.5 turns out, or is it more of a feel thing, making small adjustments then testing? Thanks again for the help, Anthony

Thanks brugal, I'll give that a go this weekend...

bump... Advice needed... Where typically is the clip set to based on the mods listed? And is there a break-in period for new reeds and a new coolhead? Thanks, Anthony

I installed a NOSS head with 21cc domes and Boyesen dual stage pro series reeds this weekend. I'm running 300 main jets and 25 pilot, and the needle is in the stock position. I also have a K&N air filter as well as the K&N PowerLid. My question is after these mods, do I need to change the needle clip position? Around the mid-range area, it's sputtering a bit, and then kicks in, but it's kicking in intermittently, which somwhat leads me to believe it could be in the twist throttle/throttle cable assembly. The cable itself is in pretty poor shape. I've ordered a new cable and am switching back to a thumb throttle, but wanted to know ya'lls thoughts about the carb situation. Additional information, about 2 weeks ago I bit it hard, and really messed up my twist throttle, and it doesn't feel like it's operating properly, like for one, it doesn't feel like it's opening the carbs all of the way. When I took my breather off, should one of the sliders in the carb (the choke side carb) be a bit more open the the other at closed throttle position? And like a dumb-a**, I didn't look to see if they were opening all of the way while I was in there. :shoothead: I just wasn't sure if the sputtering could be a result of my mods and keeping the needle clip in the stock position, or a bum throttle cable not opening the sliders all of the way. Also, is there a break-in period for a new head and reeds? I have attached 2 pics, hopefully you can see where the cable is in bad shape. It's where it comes out of the splitter and goes to the two carbs. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance...

Thanks a ton guys! I truly appreciate the help! Anthony

bump I hate to be a bother guys, but I really need to get this thing back running, can someone help me with the order the parts should go on? Does the little white plastic piece with the holes in it go against the cage, then the reeds, then the reed holder(little metal bar)? 05.Banshee.SE, I appreciate the quick reply, but you didn't mention the white plastic part, where does it go? When I put the petals against the cage, and then the white piece, there seems to be a gap between the cage and everything else. I thought there was not supposed to be a gap, so I put the white piece on first, then the petals. Is that correct? Thanks, Anthony

Thanks for the quick reply, but does Picture #2 or Picture #3 look right? The carbon fiber pieces do no not go next to the reed cage do they? Thanks, Anthony

Hello All, I am installing my new reeds and have a question, what is the order of parts for the install? I have attached 3 pics, please help me as to which is the proper way to install these. Please help, I am right in the middle of this project and need to get it finished... Thanks in advance for all help, Anthony From the package: Install Attempt 1: Install Attempt 2:

I understand your position, but solder is poor conductor of electricity, and you are dead on as far as the strength factor, that is all it is good for. Throw an ohm meter on a wire drawing current with no breaks in it, and then try to use solder as the connector itself and re-measure. It (the solder) will complete the circuit, but will transfer the current at a much more poor rate. It's only good for permanently holding the connection, verses a wire nut, butt-connectors, etc... Solder's advantage is that it doesn't come loose, but it does alter the current, aka amperage drastically, and not in a good fashion. Each of the posts on a stator need to dispurse electricity evenly, and one that A: has been solder'd will not put out the same current as the others, giving unpredictable results. And B: could have negative effects due to the heat generated from the stator's rotation. And the cost of a stator is much less than the negative effects of "band-aiding" the situation. As you stated, we're talking about a vehicle, or purchase of thousands of dollars, buying a new/used "un-altered" stator is the only way to go in my opinion. wayfast1500: Just understand that gambling has one of two results, and the one that isn't the winner, can be the beginning of a complete rebuild. Good luck...I'd Google for a used stator, there are a ton out there, and you're back in business...the right way.

I believe you need to replace it, solder is a horrible conductor of electricity. I can't see how it wouldn't affect it negatively. And the windings are to spec, so if one is chewed, I don't think you'll get preferred results...

Cool! Thanks for the info. Your setup looks clean as hell, thanks again Anthony

Has anyone used these style of exhaust clamps? Do they work? Leak any? Thanks

2002 Yamaha Banshee Current Setup Head: Stock Pistons: Stock Pilot Jet: 25 Needle: 3rd position Main Jets: 300 Exhaust: FMF Fatty Silencers: Core2 K & N: Filter K & N: PowerLid K & N: Boysen Carbon Fiber Dual Stage reeds w/ stock cages This is my exact setup. My question is, will adding the Powerhead by Duncan Racing with 21cc Domes as well as adding the Rick Stator Adjustable Timing Plate and advancing it to +4 give me a noticebale power increase? At this time, I'm not interested nor ina financial position to do any machine work to the motor. Will these add-ons be very noticable? I know this thread is very similiar to a previous thread, but that thread got pretty convulted with various suggestions. These 2 things are about all I have in my budget right now, and would like to know if I'll get the return I'm looking for. Thanks again for everyone's help.

Thanks man!

With using the Rick Stator Timing plate, will I be able to get away with using the stock stator? Thanks

With using the Rick Stator Timing plate, will you be able to get away with using the stock stator?

Cool! Thanks for the info man! Will do...

No, the bogging started as soon as I put the 300 Mains in, and the air filter is good and clean... I'm gonna mess with the air screw for a bit, and then go with the 27.5's if need be. I agree, swapping the jets aint bad at all, either way, I'm close, and not a lot of work left to do.

I'll probably try the air screw first, since it's the easiest and doesn't involve taking anything apart. Anyone know where I can find a stock front left rim?