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Thanks man! :biggrin:

I'm gonna definately get the compression tool. Thanks to all for that advice. This may sound lame, but, how do I sync my carbs? Thanks, Anthony

Jets, ummm, maybe a month ago. and yes, I removed both Pilot jets and they were cleaned and clear. I don't think so, I bought all the same oil, and get gas from the same plase as well, but I can't rule that out completely... I'll give that a shot, wish I would have thought that, then I'll be able to tell if the "popping" switches sides too... Thanks man!

Never had one yet... And I'm not completely sure, I need to do a compression check. Where's the best place to buy the needed tool? Thanks a ton...

Welcome! Lose the boost bottle, you'll just get problems from it, and no gain from it either. Next, seat the Pilot air screws, and then back them out to 1.5 turns and try that. Do this on both carbs of course. This scenario is exactly what my buddy's 'shee was doing, and after about 15 minutes of tweaking the Pilot air screws, the low end was back to strong as hell... Good luck, Anthony

I double checked the tube, it's in place. And made 100% sure the wires were on good. It's only the one side, and it has an odd popping from that side. Jets are new, and when I re-jetted it, I did a thorough cleaning. I'm running out of options. Could the Pilot jets being too small have any effect on this, or could I have just gotten a bad plug?

I had minimum power-band, i just swapped the plugs, and the thing screams again! Looks like I'm fouling the plug on the choke side. But the side of the motor the choke is on, pops, but only that side. What does that mean? Any thoughts as to what would cause this? And it smokes like no other... PLEASE HELP! Thanks, Anthony

i just swapped the plugs, and the thing screams again! But the side of the motor the choke is on, pops, but only that side. What does that mean? Thanks, Anthony

When you get the chance, DO IT! It's bad-ass. Took me a few hours to do, very straight forward...

I just pulled the plugs, and the left side, where the choke is, that spark plug is wet and oily, and that pipe has a ton of oil coming out of it, the other side, the plug was dry, and not as much oil coming from that pipe. What does that tell me? Thanks, Anthony

Hello All, Before: FMF Fatty Exhaust w/ CoreII silencers K&N Filter K&N PowerLid 260 Mains 25 Pilot Needle 3rd Clip After: NOSS Coolhead w/ 21cc Domes - Added FMF Fatty Exhaust w/ CoreII silencers K&N Filter K&N PowerLid Boyesen Carbon Fiber Dual Stage Reeds - Added 300 Mains - Added 25 Pilot Needle 3rd Clip And also changed from a twist throttle to thumb throttle and put new throttle cable in. Before the mods, it ran like a bat out of hell, now I have no low end. Should I start with changing to the fourth clip on the needle, or going to 27.5 pilot jets. Also, since the new head and domes, just above idle, it has a distinct "new" popping noise, and doesn't feel as strong in the power band. And one more thing, it smokes like a freight train. I run 50:1 ratio... Any thoughts or advice are much appreciated, Anthony

I love the increased compression... The head/domes is one of the best purchases I made, and yes, you can feel it! Midrange power is STUPID strong! Timing plate goes on today, and to +4. I took the day off, and since here in Dallas, TX it's PERFECT weather for once, not hot nor cold, the 'shee is going to the shop! :biggrin: I bought the Chariot timing plate. Billet, looks damn good, and exactly half the price of RockyMountain... Thanks for all the info guys, I just couldn't believe the gas consumption. :ermm: left me in the middle of a field trying to get home on Reserve. Anthony

Here is a list of my mods, before and after: Before: FMF Fatty Exhaust w/ CoreII silencers K&N Filter K&N PowerLid 260 Mains 25 Pilot Needle 3rd Clip After: NOSS Coolhead w/ 21cc Domes - Added FMF Fatty Exhaust w/ CoreII silencers K&N Filter K&N PowerLid Boyesen Carbon Fiber Dual Stage Reeds - Added 300 Mains - Added 25 Pilot Needle 3rd Clip After I did a few mods, my 'shee drinks gas like there's no tomorrow. I fill up, and in less than 2 hrs or right at 2 hrs of riding, trail riding, I'm empty. Now before I added the CoolHead and Reeds and new throttle cable, it seemed like I could ride all day, well, more than 2 hrs before having to use the reserve. Does this sound normal, or is something out of whack? Thanks a ton, Anthony

Most welcome man...always glad to help... Here's a bit of info on some different styles of clamps. I bought mine from eBay, and they work awesome... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=871459 And here's what mine looks like after the install... Good luck bro, Anthony

Sounds exactly like what I had. I run Fatty's, and the dude I bought it from did not put any clamps on where the headers and silencer pipes met. Sure enough, as soon as I put the clamps on, the "un-usual" ping went away. Good luck, Anthony

you have clamps where the headers meet the silencer tubes? Mine did not, and it pinged at idle. Once i put exhaust clamps on, pinging gone...well other than what the exhaust does on it's own. Stock exhaust?

I know this may sound vague...but my first thoughts are the carb is way out of whack. Turn your air screws all the way in, and back them out 1.5 turns, see if that helps at all.. Do you know if any mods have been made to it prior to you buying it? Good luck... Anthony

2 weeks ago I took my twist throttle off and went back to a thumb throttle. My 'shee is my second quad, and my Tecate 4 had a twist throttle as well. All I've ever ridden is dirt bikes, meaning I'm quite used to the twist throttle. I LOVED my twist throttle, but I ride tight trails, and MX style and in the event something goes wrong, you have a much better chance at opening your quad to wide open or close to it if it gets away from you if you have a twist throttle. After one hour of riding, I wanted my twist throttle back, BUT, it is a "getting used to" thing, and I had a spill not too long ago, and having the twist throttle made the situation go from bad to worse. Initial wreck: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=866877 Exhaust burn: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=866909 How it happened: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=877639 Just my $.02... Good luck, Anthony

I'm about 2.5 turns out on the air screws. And no, it did not do this at all before the head and reeds install... My pilot jets are still 25's. I ordered 27.5 thinking that may help, but haven't installed them yet. I have also added a new throttle cable, maybe that's not as "free" moving as it should be??? Thanks, Anthony

Wouldn't you have to force the slides in if they were backwards, due to them having a "key" to align them, making sure they're not in backwards? From my experience, if the vac. choke tube between the carbs isn't hooked up, it won't run worth a dang. Mine's just hard to keep idling once warm, and idles real high at startup. Other than that, it runs like a bat outta hell once I get a bit into the throttle. I never even have to use the choke to start it either, and it doesn't appear to be stuck open any...

My 2002 'shee idles up REAL high when i first start it. It started happening after I did the Coolhead and reeds install. After about 10-15 seconds, it comes back down. Any thoughts are much appreciated. My mods so far are in my signature if that helps... Thanks peeps, Anthony

I ride mostly MX style and tight trails... I have FMF Fattys, 300 Mains, NOSS Coolhead, and some others, see my sig. It f*cking screams! I have sitting on my bench my Chariot racing timing plate that will be going on soon. I used to run a Kawasaki Tecate 4 with a widened rear-end, and in my opinion, it makes tight turns harder. A good set of tires will help you with ass-end control. I chose the ITP Holeshots, and love 'em to death! I'd start with pipes, and intake and jets... Those were the first 3 mods made, and the bike was night and day different. Then I added the coolhead w/21cc does, and man, it rocks... I just can't wait to get the timing plate done, should be done this week...and rock'n and rollin'... And yes, do the work yourself...don't make it more complicated than it is. And with ALL the information here, you'll be fine. I did my coolhead install on my back patio in a few hours. Good luck bro... Anthony

Well, I figured out what happened, I was in a sharp right turn that we had rutted pretty good, and was a bit over confident and hit it pretty fast, expecting to just sling the ass end around and hammer down on it even more. With me turning right, my left front tire grabbed and pulled the bars hard left, and in doing so, since I had a twist throttle, it just opened it to wide open. Th f*cking thing came loose... I finally got all the broken parts replaced, and the frame straightened out... I ordered the 27.5's, just to have them on hand in case I need them. I have been 1/4 truning the air screw and it's getting better, but it feels like I'm almost all the way out with it, so I thought I might need to go to a bigger jet. At this point, should I move the needle clip to the fourth position, and re-adjust the air-screw, or go with the 27.5's? Or are the 27.5's just too fat for the pilot end. Oh, I also ordered a Chariot Racing timing plate and will be installing it this weekend to +4, how will that affect the low end situation I'm in? Meaning, if I advance the timing is the 27.5 jet the way to go, or the needle clip, or both or neither? Thanks guys...

What dirtfreak said: It's just time consuming, but very easy. Don't go cheap on the compound or polishing wheels...after that, it's nothing but elbow grease... I've polished aluminum, plastic, lexan, plexiglass, etc...and the process is the same, DON'T rush it... Get some scrap stuff and go for it, you'll have it down in no-time...

Well, I just bought this... Banshee 6061 Billet Adjustable Stator Timing Plate Especially with 200+ transactions and 100% positive feedback. Chariot does seem like a good guy... 2 - 4 business days... This weekend should be fun... :thumbsup: Thanks for all the help/feedback... Anthony