1qwkgoat

I bought my banshee from a friend and it is still registered in his name. Will I be required to have the registration on me when I go to appalachia bay. What about the OHV sticker. Do I have to have one of those. I've always rode on family and friends private land so I haven't ever bothered with this stuff. It's all new to me.

Hey is this Jarod? If so this is Chad from shawnee, I used to have the Black LS1 Trans am with the big cam and now a GTO. Not many of those 3000gts around, so I figured there's a good chance it's you.

The other day mine did the same thing. I noticed the left side did appearing to be "running" in the lower rpm's. Then it got to where it wouldn't idle at all. Mine turned out to be bad reeds, it wasn't making enough compression at the lower rpm's I guess.

Has it been ported? If so did the person possibly not know what they where doing?

Thanks for all the info. You wouldn't happen to have or know where I could get a wiring diagram for one. All I know about this one is that it started intermittently loosing spark, and it was parked. It has been well taken care of and is clean and in good condition. For the rear shock right now my girl friend doesn't go fast enough for it to really matter at least not on anything ruough. She's not on the real small side either at 5'7" and 130lbs. Is the spring on the banshee softer or just the adj. dampening? If so will jumping it with a banshee spring bottom it out then. I plan to ride it some, mostly for fun in the mud, and places I don't want to take the banshee. So it will fly at least a few times. How is thier center of gravity, should I look into widening it. I really don't want her to roll it and be scared of it from then on. I also wanted to find her a good nerf,peg, heel guard combo to help keep her feet off the ground.

Tomorrow I'm getting a 95 Warrior. That has a elctrical issue, I already bought a harness/cdi for it. I've seen in some other threads that some of you have some warrior parts laying around. I'm to sure what all I'll need, so let me know anything you have. It already has a pipe,filter, and jetted. I'm not looking to really make it any faster for now atleast. I would like to get a set of nerf bars on it. Any aftermarket stators or headlights. Any kind of good all around/mud tire for the rear of it. But let me know anything you have. I'm try to set this up so my girlfriend can have something that she can ride when me and my buddies go to the river. Right now she rides my 700raptor, but I'm wanting to get something she can call her's and is more her speed. Thats why I want her some good lights and some tires so she can get anywhere we without having try carry as speed as we might. So any suggestions as to how I may set this warrior up are welcome.

Thats what I always did to clean off the head gasket surfaces on my motors. But we used this stuff our local auto parts stores sells, we called it aviation stripper, and I think that all it said on the can. I guess it's a paint stripper for planes. Either way it will make a dirty old car block look almost brand new.

If you look at alot of cars these days. In the ducting they have going from the air filter to the throttle body. There is sometimes a tube looking piece coming off the the main tube and going several inches. This a silincer and cuts down the intake whine when on the throttle. To mean it seems ad if a boost bottle would do this. Does anybody run a shee without any type of balance tube.

Went through that last week. So I pulled both carbs and thourougly cleaned them. And low rpm's right now it doesn't sound right at all. I'm going to check the carbs again anyways while I'm waiting for reeds.

The air bleed screws are about 1.75 utrns out. The srews I'm refering to are the one's that raise the slides and they are all the way in. It has the carbs off a pre tors banshee, I assume the spots for the screw where part of the original casting on these carbs. The original owner worked at a dealership I imagine he just swapped them out. I think it's the reeds it has V force carbon fiber reeds that are at least 2 years old. I pulled them out today and you can see light through them, and in the corners you can tell where there has been some reversion happening. So anybody know where i can get some reed petals for some V froce cages. I think they are V force 2's not sure though

I just got my 2002 banshee running again. For some background I used to own this shee and sold it to a friend. It developed a electrical problem, turned out to be the key switch. It set for a year, I just bought it and got it running. It ran good for about 30 minutes then started having a idle problem.I had the carbs set by a well known banshee guy in my area, I trust they are right(I hope). The jetting is spot on plugs look great. Nothing was altered from when it used to run/idle perfect. Except for a adjustable plate set at +3. I swapped in Iridium plugs and it wont idle now, I took them out and it still wont idle. Once the rpm drops down to around idle speed the tone changes completely and gets a hollow sound no popping/tinging sound at all. Can barely feel air coming out the pipes with my hand 1in from them. It runs awesome mid and top end. Pulls very stronge for what it is. My question does this sound like bad reeds. It has V force reeds. My friend took them out last year and they wheren't real great but not to bad either. If so where can I get V force petals. If I let it die idling it must be choked to get restarted. The carbs are clean, I thought maybe the low speed circuit might be clogged it's not. I have the idle screws all the way in. The rpms it holds at before dieng are higher then a normal idle rpm. It just doesn't sound right and dies after 15-20 seconds.

More timing if your is stock timing. I could feel the difference from stock to +4 on mine. More compression will also get you some power. Just make sure you are running good enough fuel for this.

Cool man I'll let you know as soon as we get her warrior going. Is App open all year or is it seasonal? If so when is the last day.

Actually a 96 will have ODBII. 95 was the last year for the single catalytic(sp?) converter ODBI LT1's. A 96 LT1 is a good motor it has the vented optispark and ODBII. I had a 85 and 2 97's. The 97's got the updated interior, gauges and centerconsole mostly. You can put a cam in a LT1 with out removing the front clip you must remove the radiator and condensor and it will go in. While you have the intake off clean the rear sealing surface good and lay down a good bead of rtv they are known for leaking there. They T56 is a good tranny and with the .50 6th gear you can get awesome mileage. I could get 30mpg highway in my small cammed(cc305) 97. The 7.5in 10 bolt in the cars are not very strong at all. I had no prblem until I swapped the clutch for a spec stage 3 in my med size(227/233) cam 97 car then it broke the axle twice on street tires in a month. They are good cars and if taken care of are reliable and will last a long time. Just watch out when it rains if you have a old optispark, first time it stutters in the rain you might as well replace the opti. then you wont have to worry edit also all 6 speed cars except 93's will have 3.42 rear gears from the factory. Yes ls1 cars respond beeter to mods. My 227/223 lt1 car probably made 350 to the wheels. My 99 ls1 with a MS4 cam made 415 to the wheels and my LS2 GTO with a large(244/248) cam makes 452 to the wheels. But with each newer car and motor the price went up. SO lt1's though less power are much cheaper, ls1 car prices are going down though.

I was just explaining that i know the effect of different octane fuels. I also posted it since my shee seemed to have the same problem the original poster has after I alsoinstalled a RS stator, I told him I would let him know what fixed mine. Mine just happened to be a coincidence with the the RS install.

We've used aviation stripper on engines we are rebuilding and it cleans the shit out of them. I'm talking about 5.0 ford engines that have spent 20 years in a dirty fox body. Our Orielly sales it, it just says aviation paint stripper on the can. I'm not sure if I would use it on my 4 wheelers, since you are just doing the axle it might be ok

My girl friends dad lives in Tulsa I'll be down to go sometime. Probably not this weekend though we are getting her a warrior saturday with a electrical problem I have to get fixed first. What all kind of riding is there at App bay more specifc then whats was said above if possible.. Would it be more suited to my 700 raptor then the shee. My banshee hasn't proven real reliable yet so I'm kinda afraid to take it that far for it to break down on me. I'll probably bring it though if the majority is sandy, I like it alot more in the sand then the 700. Are there any requirements for App BAy such as a helmet or noise regulations?? I'd love to come ride with yall and meet some people.

I got it fixed turns out it was the piece on the end of the shift shaft, the part that actually grabs the star. It had gotten loose and could wobble to much. I hammered the rivet thing that hols it back down tighter, and modded the shift star while I was there. Now it shifts awesome.

What I was refering to about the gas was the high ethanol content you now get from the pump in your gas. Don't get that confused with methanol alcohol. I know all about the effect of octane on the flash point. I went with a little higher octane (93) because I advanced the timing and better safe then sorry I figure. Where I live at the pump gas is 10% ethanol which is added as a oxidzer to help with emissions. Thats why we in bigger jets since with this gas/ethanol mix to a certain effect has 10% less fuel in the cylinder we went up on the jets to compensate. My friends who have 5.0 mustangs we also raised there fuel pressure to compensate and it made a difference there to. I put my RS back on and it ran fine saturday and I had to fix the tranny sunday but I still put about 3 hrs on it and no problems so far. I did take the ground wire loose from my stator and the one back by the regulator and cleaned those up real with some sand paper. I removed all the TORS wiring and added another ground where the TORS box was mounted. Maybe you don't have a good enough ground and it putting alot of heat into the stator. I'm running some MSD boots and terminals that I left from cut to length automotive kit. They work fine and the boots appear as though they would be water proof.

Mine turned out to be the carbs. The only reason I can come up with is this was the first tank of the high ethanol gas. We put it slightly bigger jets and raised the needles one clip. Runs like a champ well it did for another 30 minutes now my trans is stuck in 5th and 6th. Hopefully you get you problem worked out and your shee isn't as big a pile of shit as mine is right now

It has regular oil in it and has for a year or so and shifted fine with it. It was shifting great today right up until it hung up. I'm going to check the shift star tomorrow , I have a feeling that may be it with the way it acting.

Took my banshee for a quick blast down the road today. Did a run thru the gears went to slow down and turn and it wont shift down. The shifter will move down and engage a gear but it is solid in that gear the shifter has no up to down play at all. pull it up and it will click into another gear and you can easily move it up some like it's at the top of the pattern, push it down at it shifts back down a gear and stays there. The shifter is harder to move between these 2 gears then normal. It has never exhibited any trans problems before and runs smoothly in the two gears it has(5th and 6th I believe).

Got home yesterday it started right up, power for the lights, so I guess the regualtor went out so that explains the lights. Swapped cdi no difference, still wont idle or run under about 1500 rpm. At the rpm it would normally idle at it sounds completely different and wont run. Put the stock sator back on no difference, timing at 4,3, and stock no difference. It will how ever idle with the choke on, or if you let it die when idleing with the choke off you must choke it to restart. I have my idle screws all the way in(slides up) And adjusted the air bleeds from .5 to 3 turns out and it didn't ever want to run right. My coil is a few weeks old and checks in specs it starts the first kick. I took it to my girlfriends step dad he makes a living building sand drag four wheelers, so he is gonna straighten it out for me. I'll let you know what he says it was.

If it was the flyheel wouldn't it have the problem all the time?? I'm sure it's wired right I just went thru the entire harness. And with the other stator it ran just fine. I am looking for another voltage regulator to see if thats the light problem. Which still doens't explain the reason it doesn't run once it gets warm.

I'm having the exact same problem, my bolts backed out so I bought a ricky stator stator and a adj plate set it at 4 degree's it ran fine for about 20 minutes then the lights stopped working and then it started bogging and hesitating, then quit. That was last night I came home today and it started right up but after a few minutes it got to where it wouldn't idle or run right at low rpms at all. I'll check the ohmns on mine. I also talked to RS and they said send it back.