SLORYDER

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Forgot to mention they are billet intakes an price is negotiable

Can get some pics tomorrow

Would they make decent drag pipes?

I'm sure the cpi's make more power but how do they compare overall Thanks

In my mind they look closer than anything to stock pipes (from a glance) but maybe that's me I don't remember exactly what they look like..

Yeah well the chrome isn't perfect, to say the least.

well just the shipping would be 80...

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meh, I'm not too worried about it being perfect, as long as I can get the coat to stidk

Hey I'm going for a sleeper look on my new build and I have a set of chrome Paul turner hi rev pipes I want to paint black.. I plan on using hi temp brake or some other hi temp paint but I'm wondering what's the best way to prep the chrome surface? Thanks

230 shipped is a great deal. Someone out there needs some good mx pipes with not a ding anywhere. Like I said there is a bit of surface rust on the welds but it isn't visible when the pipes are installed. I can take some better pics but it won't be until tomorrow.

Nevermind I looked at the cases they are wore from the separation I'm gonna send it to hjr for a rebuild Thanks

agreed, but in this case....

Pm me

Excellent trail/ mx pipes here

K&T or RDZ Get ready to pay though. (You get what you pay for)

No I grinded the sleeve... Raised the exhaust 1.5mm and widened it abut 2mm total. Not a lot of grinding had to be done, however, because the sleeve wasn't matched up to the cylinder that well. Basically in the exhaust by the time I beveled the sleeve to be even with the cylinder and made a straight run into the bore, I had trimmed the sleeve (raised the exhaust port roof) about 1mm, w/o even touching the aluminum.Same with widening it. Question; Hwen you raise the transfers, you keep the roof flat right, as in the port does not open up from the OD of the sleeve to the ID of the bore, right?

Hey on the stator side the pin that the rod atraches to has backed out of the crank about 1mm... Can I just tap it back in with say a hammer handle? Should just slide straight back in right? There's no play(I can't twist it by hand) I think it just backed out from rough handling shipping...

Chamfer....there's the magic word No I don't have any more pics right now... Did I change anything by lowering the boost or raising the intake? Like I said it is 2mm at the most that I lowered the boost or raised the intake

I am doing some minor port work and opened up the intake mainly by narrowing the intake bridge..Hopefully I didn't go too narrow, as I wasn't aware that breakage can be a problem... I didnt change the timing much, maybe raised the intake roof 1 mm, and also lowered the boost port floor a mm or two (ok, right)? Another question; how do my corner radiuses look (do I need to open them up any) Also What bit do people use to miter the bevels inside the bore, what angle do they have to be and how close do I have to get to the exact angle? And I just have to miter the edges parallel to the piston rings, right. One more question, after I finish all the port work and miters, and I hone the bore, do I need to re-ring or can I use the old rings if they meet the end gap specs after the hone? Please let me know if I left anything out with the porting/ cleanup process. Thanks

$30 shipped or trade for clutch boss

Title says it

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