pittss1c

And leave your beer at home. They will go into your car and pull your food out of your cooler looking for beer. I bet it is busy as hell there. It was pretty packed on memorial weekend. paddles not necessary, but flag and helmet are. (no double riders either)

I didn't mean to hijack this guy's thread, just wanted to make sure he passed things on once he got it dialed in. I am pretty confident I am running the bowls dry. It doesnt bog. It cuts completly out after a bit having it pinned long enough in 6th doing 85+ MPH, and the plug chop looks a little lean (even with 172s) No air box... I have Pods, PWK 28mm, vf2 reeds, 4 mil HR crank, long rod, I am told it has a mild port, only 21cc domes and DG pipes. I need to get rid of the fuel filter and start the testing over. I just want see if I get confirmation that I don't need to switch to pingel or get bigger bowls, or drill out the fuel passages in the carbs. (which I have heard could be necessary). If the bowls weren't running dry, I would just be dropping the clips since, when I ride I am more often at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle and the plugs look rather rich. Question: do you get much more power between 1/2 throttle and full? (I do not)

I am interested in your results. I have a similar setup but with different pipes. I am newish to this and don't have mine setup right yet. I am conservative because of fear of burning it up. I have been as fat as 172 (at 165 now). Everything that I have seen in searches says 155 should be rich. My plug chops look lean but my plugs after a ride look really rich. I now think I am running the bowls dry durning the plug chops (but not during regular riding). I am curious weather or not you run into the same problems. If you don't run your bowls dry, it might eliminate some resolution paths for me.

It should be pretty good on a Tuesday. On a weekend, they will search your car... they will open your coolers and dig around (in search of beer). I hear they increased the price if you want to ride the MX track too. Mike

I get my temp from a trailtech.. but sometimes I wish I didn't know. I have a cooling problem. I am going to try something with a fan and battery to see if it helps.

I have seen 245 degress many times without it puking puking out the overflow. The only time that happend, my trailtech said it peaked at 265!. I am suprised it didn't hurt anything.

please define overheat. Mine almost never boils over. (only happend once) I put a temperature gauge on it, and it can get to 230 within 10 mins of trail riding. (really slow trails) It can get to 245 and still not boil over. (but then I shutdown out of fear). I have a billet impeller as well, so not sure what I can do to fix things. Absolutely no problems if I am moving more then 15 mph from time to time. I wonder if anyone has tried a battery and fan before.

I have not had any problems with mine.

I figure it will be a little while before I am jumping that high. I think I will plan on putting some YFZ450 shocks on my list of things to buy. Now... to assign priority to the list Learning the right amount to shift my weight back is helping quite a bit. Now I am just bottoming out when I screw up. (which is still a little too frequent... I'll learn) Thanks

I added a small capacitor across the battery leads. It seemed to help. I got all the way around the track the first time with jumps without it shutting off. However, it did shutoff on the second or 3rd lap. better but not fixed. Mike

I shifted my weight back and landed a little more on my rears and did not have as much trouble with bottoming out this time (different track though) I posted a video of the track in bansheetube

I just talked to support, and they say that it is a vibration issue with the batteries. (there is a new version coming out next month to fix all the problems) In the mean time, I am going to add a capacitor across the battery leads to buffer the power. I will post back the results here if I get it done before my sunday ride.

I have a couple videos in banshetube that use this (both videos say badlands) there is some wavyness to the video. The audio can be pretty bad. I don't see an easy way to mount it to a MX helmet. I mounted it to the frame. I am OK with all of this, but mine shuts off frequently on it's own. (I have heard others with this problem) and it doesn't necessarily have the video up until the time it shuts off. This is why the mx video in bansheetube is weak. It was my first run, the next 4 or 5 runs where I was hitting it better all resulted in the camera turning off and I didn't get any video. If I could fix this I would be much happier.

I saw the overheating on the temp gauge. One time I could hear it bubbling in the overflow but no steam. I have a trailtech and it says I peaked at 265! I only saw 245 when I looked, but that was enough for me. I was scared, I had just leaned the mixture via the air screws, so I backed off a half a turn, and bought some engine ice coolant. That is when I found the metal flakes in the coolant (I had never looked before) I opened the water pump up expecting to find a melted impeller, but found a billet impeller installed already. I turned over the engine a few times to see that the pump was rotating. I have never seen a problem in the dunes (even hill climbing) or any other area. I have only seen this overheating in the woods. Many people have said it happens to all of us. I wonder if it didn't happen the first few rides because it was so overly rich before.

The rebuild was done before I bought it, so I don't know who did the work. It is anyone's guess. But, it sounds like it is reasonably normal to have some in the coolant. I did a half assed flush of the system, and it is better, but still has a few flakes.

I bought a recently melted and rebuilt banshee. Most everything is working well, but I had some overheating in the woods. In the process of debugging the problem, I found that there were specks of what looks like metal in the coolant (aluminum maybe) it seemed to float around in the coolant. Is this just leftover from the meltdown (meaning they didn't clean it up well) Or could this be something else?

I will keep my eyes out for some YFZ450 shocks.

I was looking at the cost of front shocks... maybe I should just take smaller jumps.

Oh yeah... I have these and... remember to keep your gloves on until the fuel is shutoff cause you are most likely going to touch the pipes trying to reach the petcock.

I am new and technique could be a factor, but I was on a motorcross track the other day, and it seemed like I was bottoming out on the bigger jumps way too often. If I compare my front suspension to other brands of quads, mine is WAY softer. Is this normal for stock springs and a 200+ pound rider?

Stupid 4 strokers... I need some new 2 stroke friends

Well, I readjusted the air screws (they were barely 1/2 turn out) and that improved my idle and helped the sputtering problem. Except when I splashed through a mud puddle, it ran strong all day. Adverse effects... harder to start: I actually need to start with choke, and leave it on for a minute or 2 when cold) Maybe coincidence, but I started seeing overheating in the woods now. (damn 4 stroke friends like woods and mud too much) My trailtech actually says it peaked at 265! it seemed to climb to 230 easily when slow in the woods. I backed down from 2.5 turns down to 2.0 turns and didnt seem much difference in idle, but didn't help overheating much. No problems in the hills or dunes though.

Since this seems to happen as a result of low power operation, should I assume that it is a pilot jet/needle issue, or can the main jets being too big effect the behavior at minimal throttle operation?

Is that true? Everyone has this problem? It seems there aught to be a jetting change that could prevent this if it is plug fouling.

yep, then it seems like it runs fine for a while after that... it seems like a plug fouling maybe. My plug chops were done while it was colder out, I will probably do new ones. But I am concerned that is not a main jet issue. It seems to happen as a result of low power operation...