serius4play

So im thinkin i wont to put a 4 mill crank in my banshee, Its already ported and polished, v forse 3 reeds Lightened flywheel +2 degrees timing .20 over Pro circit pipes (i dont wont to change these eather so dont try to convince me that i need to) 34mm keihn carbs K&N Filters, 43 tooth rear sproket, 14 front, 6in extended swing arm, 18 paddle paddle brats on 8in ITP sport rims, So im wondering if there is anything im going to have to change or just take it apart after i get the kit and put the crank in and put it back together? I have a stock head and im thinking im going to put a cool head on it with 20 or 19cc domes. will all this still work without any other mods?

thats just plain dumb to even try and go that far with stock jugs! im prety shure at like .110over your cyl walls are like paper thin...... it has to be a stroker. pull ur pistons out and meshure the cyl.

haha nice weld i see there. have a little incident?

posible cluth plates apart but it maid more of a clicking sound i had 3 broken clutch plates in mine. all i would know to say.

I know that after long periods of ridding a crap load of stuff sticks to the exost ports so if you tage em apart and clean em up and polish em down again then that hase to help. it seemed to with my dads 01 after he F@#$ed up the tranie and i had to compleatly take it apart and i noticed all the build up. i cleaned it out and carved the exost port a bit wider. idk how much but eatherway it helped it out. and yes iv been told widining gains mid 2 high power and a few more rpm and up gives you significant rpm gains. weather thats compleatly true or not idk. youl have to ask someone who isnt just experimenting with it and knos for sure how it works. (that is if they will tell you )

as i do too. they sound pretty cool but they rob power unlike they claim u gain but thats just common since your not guna gain. think v8 for example. u have dule pipes ran into a single you loose power u but dule pipes alll the way on em and u can gain like 15hp. same principle they must of been high thinkin you would gain power. my dad has a toomy 2 in 1 and i can tell it has took power away but he thought it was too loud and he was guna get a ticket but it was really fine but not guna argue with him about it.

did the plug from behind the front sprokit come out? looks like a tiny freez plug kinda, if it did then it will brake the e clip that holds the shift fork in place and allow it to flop around and slam in 2 gears at once. my dads bike did this and it chiped the tooth on seccond gear. but it would also randomly lock up so you couldnt even ride it. had to get it in nutral and i towed him back.

Sounds like part defects or minor differences in the product quality seem to make or breake the lockout systems, perhaps you shuld not change the baskit and try it. if there is no torq load and its still a B@#$% to shift then there is a problem and its hanging up somewhere and not releasing. wich it shuld. and as far as a lockout frying your clutches somethings really wrong threre! ur clutches shuldnt even be being used hardly.

Ya i got some burnet HD springs and the street bike clutches. gettin them put in tommorow. goin riddin saterday. we see how they hold up .(new chain and sprokets also changed 14 front 43 rear) hoppin to get a little more top end speend in 6th from my 45 tooth sproket.

ok makes since now. (ya with my extended swing arm i dont get shif for traction (take off in 4th gear no prob lol)

so cascade clutch and spring pack? or from fast with burnet heavy duty springs....

ehhhh.... so u shorten it for racing on dirt? cuz on sand i have a 6in extended arm and 2nd gear take off and it will flip over backwords if i had one that short i deff would. So better traction on dirt?

I like my PC pipes. and im a duner. and i have beaten my dads banshee no prob with t-5s and iv beaten many stroker motors. personally i like them and they came on the bike so im keepen em why for out money on something that i already have an improvment on from stock just to gain a few RPM or couple ponies. they work and im faster then some so why not. plus i still like to do normal ridding. im not after a full drag bike F-that shiz! Thats how banshees get bad reps. Im after a all around bike and thats what the PCs help give me. i put t-5s on my bike and didnt like em. Anyway back to the clutch.... just get some flat steels and some heavy duty pads?

When i shift my clutch will slip for a little ways then grab really hard. im thinkin the clutch pads are worn down and gettin ready to go (well im hoping thats all it is anyway) i had em checked out a year ago and they said they where ok (never told me exactly what "ok" means but ya) anyway i do a fair amount of drag racing and 2nd gear takeoffs and iv got 18 paddle paddle brats and a 45 tooth rear sprokit and 14 in front, ported/polish, .20 over, keihn carbs i think like 35's (they came on the bike) aftermarkit ignishin system with pro circuit pipes, so iv got a little bit of power, what do you think i shuld do to fixe my clutch problems? is it time for a lockout posibly? or would u just recomend me getting some high strength clutche plates and springs.... i do know that whoever had my bike befor maid it so that it holds an extra clutch plate or 2. idk i didnt really look at it when i had my engin re built. but shuld i just get some heavy duty springs and new clutch pads and plates? what compony would u recomend?

why would u wont to shortin it? wow this totally blows my mind.

why would u wont to shortin it? wow this totally blows my mind.

Cascade inovations have some. and as long as u dont let one of your friends (or your dad) spin the paddles on asphalt or gravel they last a long long time. and ur engin will think u for them if u ride on the dunes with just knobies. (BAD THINGS HAPPEN!!!) ya engin revs way to much

i installed some of the little walmart lights andi didnt make a braket they pinched together and had no problems with them. idk if i hooked it up wrong or what but they dont have low beams just always high. and they are very bright soon as i hit the gas just a little (like just above idle) but my old lights where the same way. they work fine and are cheaper to buy a new set if u break one then to buy a lense for the stock ones and they are smaller. CHROME!!! and worke grate for a stock stator and didnt cost 200 or more bucks.

hey, iv been lookin for a way to get cascade silincers on pc pipes, well i finally called cascade and they said that they will give you just the silincer pipe and then you use your old stingers to fit on there silincers and they nock off a hundred bucks! so i bet if you just order the silincers and use the old style stingers that you have with lets say your toomies or shears, CPI's you can get them for a 100 bucks cheaper. just thought id let ya know.

hmmm. STUPID VARIATIONS!!! why cant things be simple! so what your saying is that it cant just be ground down a bit then put back in. i have to re do the dome it's self? (stock head not cool head with replaceabel domes now that is easy.)

Wondering how much i shuld take off my head when i shave it down. a messurment would be helpfull. or maby even a compreshion chart. =)

Sounds like detonation or maby a air leak like they said or your kill switch isnt working properly.

ok i havint got it apart yet gota get it back from the shop. once i take it apart and find the problem il let you know what i need.

lol yeah i figuerd

Lone Star Micro-Lite Rear Wheel Hubs and fronts axecaliber axels and if they dont hold up well to jumping what would u recomend? and do you think pro lite pistons are better then wisco?