Eric Krupp

Got the bulbs in yesterday and rewired it lastnight using the tailight circuit for the low beams. Everything is working great. With my prior hook up the duners took a second to fire up so when you would switch from low too high it was dark for a second. Doesn't sound like a big deal but it is when your blasting down a gravel road doing 60 at midnight. That is a long second! Using the tail light curcuit, the lows never go off so you always have light. Throws a ton of light and I can steer the lows. Awesome!!

I ride alot of wooded trails so the handle bar lights are great but I also ride alot of gravel at high speeds so I was trying to get all the lights working at the same time. 2 Reasons: as much light as possible and the ability to turn the lights down when I meet another vehicle. I am probably going to leave it as is. I had a bulb burn out and I was seeing if there was any room for improvement while I was messing with it. Not real hip on tearing into the wiring harness I just re-did about 6 months ago. I think I will leave it alone.

I will definitely be pulling less amps. I already have the RS stator and regulator as well. I am going to run into an issue if I split the tailight lead and run three lights instead of one? Not sure if I am going to see a resistance issue.

I was trying to figure who knew what they were talking about on here so I looked up your and other member's profiles and I think there was a Face Book link or something. Sorry for digging too deep, I just wanted to make sure who to listen too. If your not careful on here you will get a reply from someone who knows less than myself. Ended up with 200 main EEJ Bottom Clip Bike runs great and plugs show good color. I think I finally got it. Thanks.

I went throught the same thing a few weeks ago and could never get a straight answer. I bought a K&N A/F meter but never installed it. Ended up doing it the old fashioned way, trial and error. Listed all my mods and listened to the feed back. Make sure you are listening to someone on here with the same mods you have and some experience.

I read some of your other posts concerning electrical and DC conversions and I knew you were going to hit me with that one. I may leave it as is. I think I may be opening a can of worms and everything is fine as is. I was thinking I could use the tail light circuit because it is on for high and low beams. Thanks, Eric

You are correct, I do want to run all 4 on high beam but I am actually cutting the wattage from from 200 down to 180 by changing the duner bulbs from 100 watts each down to 55 watts each. Current High Beam 100watts X 2 Total 200 watts Proposed High Beam 55 X 2 110 watts 35 X 2 70 watts Total 180 watts Am I missing something? What about splitting the tail light circuit? It is constant. I will check into the DC conversion.

I have been running the current configuration for about 8-9 years with no problems and my current set up is pulling 100 watts per bulb on high. By dropping the Duners down to 55 watts each and hooking up TT's I would only be pulling 180 watts total instead of 200. I am actually dropping the wattage on high but using all 4 lights. That's my theory anyway??? I have had no problems with the factory switch I am just not sure how to make the TT's work on both low and high beam.

Current Set Up Low Beams/ Trail Tech 35 watt bulbs High Beams/ RS Duner 100 watt Bulbs Max Low Beam Wattage-70 watts Max High Beam Wattage-200 watts Proposed Set Up Low Beams/ Trail Tech 35 watt bulbs High Beams/ RS Duner 55 watt Bulbs and Trail Tech 35 watt bulbs Max Low Beam Wattage-70 watts Max High Beam Wattage-180 watts My question is can I wire my factory switch to run the only the TT's on Low Beam and the TT's and the RS Duner's on High Beam? I would actually be running less total wattage on High than I am currently running with the 100 watt Duner bulbs.

That is another hard one to explain verbally. I may try going way up and down on my jets to see if I can figure out the difference. The bike is actually running better than it ever has. I am extremely close but I want to figure this stuff out for myself so I know. It pulls hard from bottom to top with a slight hesitation in the middle but most people wouldn't notice it. It is screaming. I really appreciate the help. I noticed on your profile that you are into Wakeboarding also. If you ever get to Missouri in the summer time look me up and I'll let you ride my Air Chair. It rates right up there with wringing a Banshee out.

Mark, This is something else that I find very confusing. Explain the difference, please. Can sound files be posted on this website? Maybe someone could record a sound bite of the difference for a reference. Video would be even better but I am sure we would hit a size limit. Eric

Okay, hold on! Set Up #1 200 Main EEK 2nd From Top 48 Pilot Bogged bad at 1/4 throttle. Would all but die if you held it there. Set Up #2 200 Main EEK 2nd From Top 52 Pilot Still bogged but much better. Read your post suggesting an EEJ Needle and 40-42 pilot. Set Up #3 200 Main EEJ 2nd From Top 42 Pilot Bogged slightly at 1/2 throttle but seemed much snappier. Set Up #4 200 Main EEJ 2nd From BOTTOM 42 Pilot Ran really well. Plugs started to show color but slightly wet still. Set Up #5 190 Main EEJ 2nd From BOTTOM 42 Pilot Runs extremly well. Plugs showing good color after a 3-4 mile hard run. Pulls hard all the way to the top. That all transpired today. I may do a plug chop tomorrow on my mains to see what I'm getting to be safe. Explain your "feel" theory to me. I would like to understand. It seems to me it would be real easy to get it lean since lean is usually faster. Not argueing against it just want to know different theories. Also, would I be better off going to a richer needle and moving the clip to the top so I have more adjustment for temperature drops? If so which needle would I go too? I am definitly much closer, bike is running good and plugs are shaping up. Thanks.

I ran it as I specified this morning; 200 Main EEK 2nd from top 48 Pilot 1 1/2 out Bogged bad at 1/4 throttle, bike would almost die if you kept it there. Brought it back and put a 52 pilot 1 1/2 turns out and bogg went away. Would the EEJ richen it up 1/4 slightly? That damn Keihin Needle chart is easily confused in my opinion. Another question; should my plug chops all look the same at the various throttle positions? 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, WOT? Or will the smoke band vary at the different positions. The way I understand it is that it should be 2mm at every position. I am going to rip it back down and go with your suggestions; 42 Pilot EEJ 2nd from top 200 Main I am listening to your directions.

That is kind of what I wanted to hear. I think I may have been compensating for a small pilot with a fat needle and main. I have changed to the following and will test as soon as it stops raining. I think I am over analyzing the entire procedure. Main 200 Needle EEK 2nd from top Pilot 48 1 1/2 out Gonna chop the mains and see what I have now. I'll send pics. Thanks for the help, I REALLY appreciate it!

That was a small sampling of what I have done. Here is the entire pile. I think I am going to try a 40 Pilot, EEK Needle and a 200 Main and see where that puts me. The base ring color in the second picture is what is stumping me. The plug chops look alright but the base ring color never gets any darker. Could something else be affecting this like timing?

Most of the riding I do anymore is trails and gravel roads/blacktop. I live in BFE so I can get away with it. The nearest sand is a good 10 hours of driving away. I can't tell you that it does run any better with the 220 over the 200. What confuses me is that the smoke ring on the 220 plug is narrower than the 200. Shouldn't it be wider? What about that base ring on the uncut plug? That is what is really screwing my head. If that thing was brown like it is suppossed to be I would say screw it and ride. It is plenty fast enough. I think I might try going up to a 40 pilot, an EEK Needle and a 200 Main then re chop. Right now I am at the minimum jet on the bottom and the max at the top. Seems odd. I may remount my Digitron and check the main that way. What will my temps doif I go too big on the main? Drop or raise? It seems to me lean would be hotter and rich would cool it back down but at this point I am not sure of anything.

Snop, It actually run very well. Does not smoke. Some oil on silencers but have not cleaned them in a while. I am testing on blacktop on a pretty good grade. Should I try an EEK on the needle. My biggest concern is the base ring not showing color in the second photo. Can you explain the process of tuning by EGT. I just took my digatron off about 3 months ago. Is it like a plug chop? What temps are optimal? Regards, Eric

All, I noticed in my original post that I stated "my mains ranged from 195 to 200". As the picture shows that is incorrect. The range was actually 195 to 220 as noted in the pictures. Sorry, Eric

Firehead, If I knew what I was doing i wouldn't be here but Thanks either way. I am a machinist and in my opinion the Monoblock is a rock solid design and it runs good. I had 4-5 Trinity 420's before this motor but they never stayed together whether I put them together or Trinity did. I had both short and long rods and they had nothing on this motor performance wise. This plug thing is kicking my ass though. What makes you say the 220 looks better than the rest? It is darker than the 210 but it is also narrower in width. Not to mention that is the largest jet I can buy so what am I going to do when the temp drops here in Missouri? I have read all the "Plug Chop" posts and tend to think this is the best practice but it still seems a bit vague. The second picture of the base ring is what really has me confused. It should be much darker without a doubt. Not sure what is going on. Eric

Picture of the total package.

Picture of uncut used plug.

1987 Banshee Vito's 404 Monoblock 4mm Crank 4 Deg Timing Advance Trinity Stage IV Intake 2 into 1 Kehien PWK 38 with K&N V-Force Reeds Toomey T5 Works Dual Rates Lonestar Front and Rear 91 Octane Castor 927 at 32:1 950 Feet above sea level 65 Degrees The list continues but not needed. My issue is this. I am running PWK 38 with a 35 Pilot, air screw 1 1/2 out, FEJ Needle clip in the middle position Mains ranged from 195 to 200. Please see attached picture. The issue I have is that all of these plugs look close to me but the base rings of my plugs never color which should tell me I'm lean. The bike starts good and runs good but this plug issue is eating me up. Could I be too lean on my pilot and I am trying to compensate with the Main? This has been a strong motor and I don't want to eat up due too poor jetting.