sinisterboo

yea, i tried it with the one that was still good, i can do it. and i dont have a cub yet, havent decided if i want a 358 or 392. Probably get 392 and be done with it as its same price.

thats the ones in that pics, are they wiseco items or can i just measure them and source my own?

well i went ahead and split my cases to make sure there wasnt anything else to sneak up and bite me in the ass before i "cub" it, and i noticed the orings on the crank bearings were all tore up. what is the purpose of these? btw, its a hot-rods crank, and the bearings still feel great.

yea, police? i'd like to report a stolen thread! LOL j/k im just gonna search some more, and save up for a 392 cheeta setup. just mite run on stock carbs for a bit. be like a 572 big block with a 2-barrel huh? lol

What about rz cylinders? what are the benefits and dissadvantages of them? and will my coolhead work on them?

how much for the cub?

Sheerider, why u sellin the cub? just curious.

can i run a cub with stock carbs? just a 358 or whatever.

one of my wrist-pins "somehow" (lol) made its way out of the pistin and into the sleeve. Didnt lock up, was just going thru it to re-ring it and happened to see this. my cylinders are already .080 over. heres my dilemma, do i sleeve my non-ported cylinders or buy a used set? i want a cheeta cub, but cash is a little thin since i just bought my cpi inframes. what are my options?

well, went to little sahara "new" used replacement clutch. man its like riding a different bike, that old clutch had been slipping for a long time. now that its getting cold its coming back apart and getting r6 fibers and a billet basket. this thing wheelies like no other now, i love it!

I will be there sat and sun, the lone 2-stroke in my group. rest are 400ex's, so i have nothing to worry bout.

I have seen the little hole on the bottom, it looks to small for any big chunks, but im sure there is clutch material all over inside the tranny. i will clean it the best i can and go have fun this weekend, this is our last trip to the dunes this year. i will plan on winter teardown including going thru the motor, ie: seals, better clutch, rings, i would like to polish the covers, but if im doin a good clutch and i win the lottery i will buy a lock-up with a polished cover. i will put it together tonite and let everyone know it works.

do i just spray the hell out of it with brake clean or what? i was thinking i would HOPEFULLY have it together for the weekend, run it long enuff to get it warm, then drain and refill the oil, maybe several times, cuz i did see that the crank seal is in a pretty vulnerable spot, and i made srue the spring was still on the seal. any other method for flushing this turd?

I am in tulsa oklahoma, zip 74107. any other people close to me on here?

i agree after what i have read that the f.a.s.t clutch is good, but im trying to buy a clutch locally just cuz im leaving 4am sat morning for sahara. already got gasket and bolt kit, just need the expensive stuff now. i can tell it had been slipping for a while. i just thought my dunlops sucked! got worse with the last trip on paddles, so i knew it was coming, but wasnt expecting broken, just bald! how much was that fast kit? and where are you guys located?

ok found it, grenaded 2 fibers and wadded up one steel. all other gears and stuff look good, just needs cleaned out and new fibers and steels. anyone ever used the Tusk brand stuff? i see they are cheap, but it only has to last thru my trip to waynoka next weekend. any other ideas or input will be appreciated. your truly, "clutchless in tulsa"

i will be there the 27th and 28th, with my blue and white shee, and my uncles 400ex, i hope to meet some of u guys from this site.

I had been ridin hard all day, thats why im thinkin it galled up the ball and rods. has anyone ever had their adjuster nut come loose? i mean it was there on minute, 3 seconds later i had nothing. weird huh? i hope its just the adjustment or rods, im looking 4ward to my little sahara trip. at least it didnt happen there!

I was riding thru a fast trail, not even touching the lever. stopped to wait on my buddies 400ex (lol) when i figured out i had no disengagement. i tightened up the cable and it worked a little, but then got worse. thats why im thinkin it was the pushrods inside. the clutch grabs fine, just wont disengage. i leave for waynoka friday morning! ahhh!!~ anybody have an exploded view of a tranny? theres 3 parts to the pushrod if i remeber right.

after riding today, my clutch lever went to shit. will not disengage. cable is good and adjusted right. the lever sticking out of the motor is moving fine. could the pushrods and ball inside have welded together? thats the only thing i can think of so far.

i will have to look at the steering stem, that seems logical, because i have only recently added the shocks, last summer it still made contact with stockers installed. i will look in the morning and repost. im gonna keep absorbing other threads. im already learnng a lot.

solid where they mount to the frame, but there is some adjustment in the upper and lower ball joint. should i just refer to the thead on front-end alignment? also, it has PEP triple-rates that are ZPS, so the front end rises with throttle, how should i compensate for that with the bike just sitting?

I HAVE A SET OF EYEBALL ENGINEERING A-ARMS, +1/+2 ON MY BIKE, WHEN TURNED ALL THE WAY IN EITHER DIRECTION, THE INNER LIP OF THE RIM CONTACTS THE A-ARM. THE WHEELS ARE FACTORY WHEELS, NO DIFF. OFFSET OR ANYTHING. DO I NEED TO REALIGN THE BIKE OR COULD THE STOPS ON MY STEERING STOP BE FIXED OR MODIFIED TO CORRECT THIS? THIS IS MY FIRST TIME ON HERE, HOPE TO LEARN SOME TIPS FROM YOU GUYS, C ME LATER. SHAUN