sinisterboo

whos got one? what brand do i need?

thats the problem, whoever painted it made it really hard to read. I am hoping they didnt do it on purpose! I found a chart, so now i just have to figure out what that 10th digit is for sure. i will upload the chart and somebody can stickie it so we have it for future reference.

nobody know a site at least with the year code chart on it?

didnt have any when i bought it. was a roller with cases. i bought everything else.

my tenth is either a 4 or a "A" hard to read thewhole vin for some reason. its all there, just not stamped very deep. the numbers dont appear to be modified, maybe sanded? who knows, just wanna know what year it is before it gets PC'd tomorrow.

easy off oven cleaner , believe it or not, is a safe paint remover to use on plastic. its not quite as bad ass ast the aircraft stuff, but it wont turn your plastic to a big pile of goo!

You can usually take a small pick and twist whats left out of there, that is unless it broke because it was cross-threaded. Running with 5 springs will cause the clutch to disengage un-evenly, wearing out ALL of the clutch components way fast. I would take a little time to make it right, clutches get expensive when you have to buy basket, pressure plate, hub, and fibers all at once. Been there! If its too bad someone on here will probably have a stock hub for cheap.

click on that cascade link a few replies back. it shows a stock one right next to a modded one. really good pic for you to go by!

they hook into a little plastic tee that 3 hoses go on. the third just runs up about where your top hose from your overflow bottle ends.

Just did mine lastnite on a bench grinder. Just be careful, they get HOT! lol. anyways, afterwards i finished smoothing it out with a 3m roloc wheel on my die grinder. Seems to work on the bench just fine. When i get my frame back and all together we'll see how it works.

actually, its not to bad, its silver vien, just chipped from a chain departure a while back. it has a dual row bearing carrier with recent bearings. found out that it uses Geo Metro front wheel bearings! Saved some money by doing some research.

p.S. there are 2 breather hoses on the engine that I can remember.

The lower line from the overflow runs up to the neck of the radiator. the line on top of the bottle just runs parallel with it up to the front, then just hangs there, doesnt hook to anything. If you are wanting to clean up the bike a little, some guys on here dont even run the bottle anymore. they just run a hose from the little neck on the radiator down to a safe distance away from you. maybe somebody will chime in with more details.

That small hose out the water pump is breather if i remeber right. should tie in with a tee to the hose that comes out of the top-rear of the engine cases.

I just so happen to have a stock length roundhousing swingarm. Its made by eyeball engineering. It has served me well, but i need a longer one. Its not real pretty, needs to be re-powdercoated. I may be willing to part with it.

ok guys, called hot-rods today and he did not hesitate to ask for my address to ship me a new set. good guys, and i will continue to due business with them. by the way, there was no charge.

If porting is in you future then you will definately want bigger carbs to take advantage of the increased flow. have you read the thread on the 30mm oko carbs? they seem to be a very good carb and use common parts so tuning wont be an issue. what pipes were you running now?

first off, what type of riding do you do, and what are some future mods you are thinking about? for your set-up i believe most people here will agreestockers are OK. but if you are planning to get heavy with it, the 28's would be a good start in my opinion.

I will measure the grooves on the bearing races. I will post the measurements soon.

By the way, my wife rides a 660 raptor. anwhere i can find tips on that bike? other than sell it! lol

I'm with you on that. I want to be able to ride varuous types of areas without changing my bike arond alot. I ride probably 40% woods and 60% dunes. I am also researching the RZ conversion. Maybe i just need to buy a 2nd banshee! LOL

what do you mean it take more to run a cub? I have a hot-rods crank, cpi inframes, duncan powerhead (coolhead copy) ect. ect. i have been reading and asking questions about the cub stuff for about 3 months now. I'm not just a dude with money jumping in not knowing. Im a dude saving up money to buy what i have been researching forever!

for what it cost to get sleeves installed and another set of stock sized pistons in my non ported jugs i would be 200 bucks shy of a cub kit. im just runnin these while i set back some cheese.

well, as we know i killed one of my .080 over jugs recently, so i bought a used right side and a .100 over vito's piston kit. I know my bikes gonna need a little help in the cooling department. My plan is a finned inline cooler, and some "engine ice" in the coolant. will this work? or am i over engineering stuff again?

thats what my local shop told me, they arent super important. but since i am waiting to get my jugs machined i figured i'd kill some time and research what to do. i'm not gonna kill a set of cases over a 3 cent oring. i will measure them tonite and post what i find.