WINDYCITYJOHN400

He's got the parts, so it will get built with what he has. (It's like guys who put a Vega body on a chevy K5 chassis…..you ask why and they say….cause that's what I had sitting in the back yard.)

I had a feeling it was going to be a basic pre fab VW kit. So .....what about that makes it "not the average VW rail"?

Go to the ASV site! The C6 are offered for MX motorcycles F3 still =ATV

Get a girl that can ride......

Go to ASV site. You can click on MX motorcycle - ATV - Streetbike Click the ATV picture. It gives you ONE choice.....F3 Why do shops sell the wrong levers to people?....Because they don't research everything like me. They just sell you the most expensive lever.

My buddy has that system. Uses an R/C car battery. I don't like it at all. Charging circuit fails periodically. Timing changes are done with dip switches. I'd rather stay stock.

You can go with Cool Head, NOSS, Chariot…. (Use site sponsors NOT Ebay….it's worth having a company who you can count on for help and advice.) Just about any of the aftermarket Banshee heads will be fine. I'm fairly certain that your motor is a zero deck set-up, so you can take advice as to the dome size for the fuel you would like to use. (It would be best to do a squish check, but I'm not sure what your pay grade is on that.) But it's a process you can search for here and learn to do. Keep your timing down around +4 for now and don't trust the last guys jetting. Make some runs and do plug checks as you go to be sure your jetting is rich enough to prevent it burning down. You won't be riding tomorrow….but when you do, it's more likely to not end in disappointment.

Thanks Rob.

Well then START by ditching the Trinity head and domes. THAT is the heart of the problem with their stuff. They have a horrible dome design. It actually causes detonation which blows O-rings and head gaskets. They also like to build motors with crazy high compression. (Which blows O-rings and head gaskets) I understand you wanna ride….but you gotta slow down and solve the problem, not treat a symptom. Otherwise you end up blowing it a second time, washing the piston and cylinders with cool water and warping pistons, sticking rings and the whole motor ends up an aluminum paper weight. I just want you to understand that "Trinity is all I have to work with" is not a workable game plan. "Trinity is what you have and THAT is what we need to solve." I'm not condemning the entire motor. But the heads and domes gotta go. That's not even up for discussion. Keep them and you keep the problem.

I'm 43. I just talked to you like any parent….I just basically told you don't do it you'll kill yourself…..and stay out of your dads's tools! Then I offered a smarter way to accomplish your idea. Buy a frame that's done. Carry on.

Here…..fixed it for ya.

I got a KID I built in 2002! He at least listens when I try to tell him something…...

Back off slim shady. Nobody is being an asshole. People are just saying this project is not on the level of earning a scout merit badge. Your dad's tools and knowledge give you ZERO ability. So unless you're going to ask dad to do the research…..try not to sign him up for shit you can't do. With some plumb bobs, levels, straight edges, tape measures, a sawzall and some time….you could figure this project out on your own. We can't explain it all for you. Do a search….maybe the DIY network has a video for you. Otherwise, I offered to sell you a stretched frame ready to go. Beyond that……..talk to Uncle Daddy.

There is nothing simple about stretching a frame. That's the point. I have one that is already stretched +4 in front. I'll sell it to ya if you're interested.

Whole thing rebuilt in 2002……………….…..That shit is FRESH! I'd help more but, first we'll solve this problem……..then next it'll be a tutorial on jetting. And so on and so on….. Trade that thing for a 4 stroke with EFI and electric start. They are like cars…..you just add fuel and ride till they break and you tow them to a mechanic. Sounds like your speed. Turbo domes…..FFS

Whaddayamean gunna?

besides….once they start hanging with the guys and see how they react to seeing other girls on Banshees…….they quickly realize NOTHING is hotter than a "Chick on a Banshee"

It may be bigger…..but nothing has the deep thick padding of the Banshee seat. We have a 2009 YFZ450R with a really nice shaped seat….but it's a phonebook compared to the Banshee seat.

Best input on the topic your going to get. I'm not TRYING to be negative…..the facts just sound that way. (Why does everyone want to kill the messenger?) Maybe instead of trying to help you diagnose an issue and work it out before the problem gets bigger…….maybe I'll just say... $900 for a running Banshee!?!?!?! ​ Awesome deal dude! You STOLE it from him! Sounds like it was built years ago…so I'm sure it's fine. Top that bitch off on fuel and go rip that thing!

For crying out loud….buy her a mostly stock Banshee and be done with it. If she wants a manual tranny….go with the Banshee. As she gets better at riding, you can build more power into the mix. If you buy her a kids size quad, she will never be happy. Plus (And I'm quoting my wife here) "Why don't any of the other machines out there have a seat as comfy as the Banshee seat?" My wife had a 400EX…..till she rode my Banshee once. Then she HAD to have that cushy seat! Make her comfy and she'll like riding, put her on junk and she won't.

O-rings are for a cool head. Head gaskets are for stock head. Trinity is for Don't order stuff from them. $900 for an entire bike? You ever see that movie "The Ring"?……….I think he sent you a copy of the tape!

Raising ignition timing can increase spark plug tip temperatures by 150-220 degrees. NOBODY has asked to see a plug. I'm amazed at the belief that timing it picked off of guesses and butt feedback. That's why I asked WHY the timing is at +7. If you don't understand WHY it's set at +7….then find out or learn. Advancing timing more and more doesn't make more power. Eventually all it does is create HEAT. Don't fall into the "More is better" line of thinking. Plus advancing timing actually makes the mixture leaner. You might find more power and throttle response with lower timing and going down a main jet size. But there is WAY more to this topic than can be easily and quickly answered. Your PLUG tells you what your timing needs to be, not your friends, not your manual, not us internet advisors. Till you read up on plug reading, you won't KNOW what your timing needs to be. +4 is safe because it's not a radical advance. +7 is nearly doubling what most consider a safe step up. Running +4 is possible on almost any Banshee motor, but moving into the +7 to +10 range requires being VERY in tune with your motors personality and needs. If you can "Feel" or "Hear" that your timing is too high……it's usually too late.

C5 = Motorcycle lever F3 = ATV lever

Yes. The stock stuff is very good. I run a Nology on my 10 mill. But a stocker on my 370. Stay away from aftermarket CDIs. MSD has a new system that some racers use on 3-4 cylinder monsters to find that last little bit of power and adjustability for a high end drag application. But it's not for 99.9% of us.

+7 on 93 is steep. The real question is Why are you choosing to set your timing at +7?