robert.b.west

So this is the original schematic as your banshee comes from yamaha. That part you have circled is me short circuiting the two wires that run to the key switch to eliminate the key. I left them over in that position just to remind my self what they were originally for. If you don't have a key this short has already been done.

I guess I am not sure where you mean. Can you circle it in the schematic and re-post? If you are talking about the wire that starts at the cdi as black then ends up at the cdi in another location as red/black. This is what I did to eliminate my key. If you don't have a key this has already been done.

That will work but in that case you are looking for the black/white and black wires for that switch.

I deleted my key so I just shorted them together and just use the kill switch. But it can be done either way.

To run the ignition switch has to be closed and the engine kill needs to be open. You can put a switch on either loop. Probably just easier to just delete the engine kill switch (leave it open) and put a toggle on the ignition circuit. With that closed it will run.

Why do you need a toggle switch? Do you still have you engine kill switch? You could do that but if you still have you engine kill switch there is no point to have two switches that kill the engine.

Did you just delete the wire from the stator to the chassis ground? I was looking at that at lunch and figured I did not need that.

Yes it is a trail tech reg/rectifier. I have it hooked up to use a smaller battery (>4ah)

Here is my electrical schematic. Let me know if you see any issues. I have added a 12v dc system and hid's. I have deleted the tors throttle switch along with the tors switches on the carbs. I have not yet proved out the 12v dc system. I plan on updating my harness this week with the 12 dc changes.

I have a sling shot style lock up that I use at the dunes and I love it. It works great. I don't drag race with it so I don't ever adjust it anymore. I did adjust it two times after I got it but they get you pretty close in the instructions.

Last weekend I heard there was 4.5" inches out there. This week was not very cold so I doubt we gained much. And seeing the forecast is saying that all the highs are above freezing, I think that it will be canceled if it has not been already.

x2

I have the same setup except 33mm pwk's and I have 165 mains. The 35mm should be about the same.

I don't think that it is going to happen this year. I don't think the lake is even skimmed over yet.

I think I may be driving a ways to get to go ride

I will go just let me know when.

Where are all of the ice races this year? I only got to race in one last year and am looking for more. Here is the flyer for Devils Lake

No they arn't. I have some shit on the pipes that makes it look like there are more welds than there are in that picture.

I am running a 15/41 with 22" paddles but I think that I like the stock 14/41 with the 22's better. 15/42 would probably work pretty good on dirt. I just have a hard time wrapping out 6th on the sand with the 15/41.

I personally love the cpi's but have no experience with shearers. The stock clutch has components have worked for me with no issued although I do have a lockup. I added it after my second ride. From personal experience it depends on what you are doing if you need a lockup on a serval. If you are doing just general dune riding I would say some good clutch plates and hd springs would be just fine. Up at Silver Lake we drag race quite a bit on wet sand. Once the clutch started to get hot it would not hold while drag racing. I got an under cover lockup and love it. I think that a cool head is pretty much a necessity. I run the stock radiator and never have had any cooling issues. I have a in line temp gauge coming out of the head and the highest temp I have seen was 180 f.

I would say that bottom to mid range was for the most part an unnoticeable change between the two sets of pipes but it was a big change from the dune ported 350 to the serval.

I got my Serval back in March. My mods are listed in my sig. The only difference was the pipes. When I got it I did not want to spend money on another set of pipes so I just stuck with my t-5's and it ran very well but it was not as significant of an upgrade from my dune ported 350 as I would have liked. At the time I was actually regretting getting the serval and thinking that I should have got a cub. Over the summer I ended up breaking down and buying a set of cpi's and going with what other people seem to be running on the Serval. The power increase was very significant. The t-5's seemed to have just a mediocre mid to high end power but the cpi's really seemed to wake it up from late mid range to high. After switching to the cpi's I now really enjoy this motor and would suggest it to anyone that is looking for a dune motor that also like to drag for fun.

That is not correct. You can have a fully synthetic oil that does not have friction modifiers and is ok to use with a wet clutch. An example Mobil 1 4T 10W-40 http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil1_Racing_4T_10W-40.aspx# What you can look for on the back of the container to see if it is "wet clutch approved" is the spec for wet clutches and it is JASO MA or JASO MA2. There may be oils out there that do not have this spec on them but are still ok to use. The manufacturer may not have tested the oil for that specification. BUT if it has this spec it is ok to use in the gearbox.

That is what I use. Pretty much because it is cheap. I have never had any problems with it.

That could work you would just have a large wheel.