Shee's Dirty

Looking at buying a banshee, the jug is black and says CGR on it. Any idea what they are? Probably a dumb question, but I have NO idea. Thanks in advance!!

That was a previous combo, I no longer have that short block, I have all the external aftermarket parts, not the old motor itself, I sold it. I have a factory virgin engine I am looking to build. Sorry for the confusion. I appreciate all the help!

I have a dual carb setup too that came off a friends banshee. I could go either way. I'd just rather have known good new internals and cant see going back to stock really...Anyone have a proven 4mil combo I could just copy??

What kinda power would that make? Wouldn't it be cheaper to buy the 4mil kit for $450, have cylinders bored, and a lil minor port work?

Yeah, that's my whole delima. Old combo: No-Toil Filter Pro Flow filter mount 2 into 1 34mm PJ Noss Reed Spacers Boyeson power reeds Bored .030 over .030 Wiseco's .010 milled head Crank welded and trued DMC Alien complete exhaust. Dyna FS Ignition Ricky Stator Stator It made 51hp, it ran so so, looking for a lot more, but like I said, trails are my main territory.....What will a .30 over 4mil make on a dyno?

Debating on a 4mil setup, starting from scratch basically. I do more trail riding than anything, but also like to drag. I don't want to make TOO much power to ride the trails with a hard powerband. What HP range should I try to be in, or what are my options? Who is the cheapest package deal supplier for engine internals/pistons (complete 4 mil) etc. etc. Ebay the best source?? Thanks in advance!! :cool:

I use a good sharp utility knife. I freehand most of the ones I cut, but you could use masking or electrical tape and make your lines how you want them, build up 2 or 3 layers of tape to use for a guide, then run the blade over your tapeline several times in the same cut until it cuts all the way through, you have to use a little pressure. This leaves a cleaner edge than a dremmel or a jigsaw and makes for quicker cleanup. just my .02 :cool:

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I don't mind shipping it. I'm not sure even what to ask for it to be honest....I gave 3k for my running 99' Shee that was waaay rough when I got her, but ran good. Make an offer guys! Trades??

Would a car fit in this trailer??

I have a 99' Banshee that I bought a while back that needs a home. I bought this bike in pieces from a friend of mine, original owner, clear title. It was her husbands bike, it had been totally taken apart for powdercoating/customising etc. and is still in pieces. He passed away a couple years back and she finally decided to sell it as is. ALL parts, bolts pieces, hangers, plastics etc. etc. are here. I have not went through everything to see exactly what aftermarket stuff is on it. I DO know it has Pro Circuit pipes and all the small easy aftermarket upgrades. It was a 100% stock engine internally, bike was barely ridden. I don't know wether to sell it all together, put it together and then sell it, or to part it out. How much will a good Shee part out for? Make an offer......Or a suggestion. Thanks in advance...

Are the wheels bare aluminum? How much tread is left on the tires? Hit me at [email protected] with pics VERY interested!

I do alot of painting myself, custom paint on boats, cars, trucks, really whatever is thrown my way. You CAN paint the plastics, but like everyone said, any flexing, rubbing, bolt holes, edges etc. are going to be the first things to peel and chip. If you take care of your bike it would be fine for a few years. To be honest, I do enough trail riding that I'm going to have a local shop do what the call a "wrap" or "bodywrap" on it. I'm not sure if this is what you were referring to as a sticker or not, but it would definately be the way to go. What they do is print ANYTHING you want onto the vynil, in any color wether it be pictures, logos, decals, writing, flames, lighning bolts etc. etc. They heat it and wrap it around your plastics, then they come back with a thick, clear vynil that acts like a clearcoat on a car. It protects your graphics and withstands alot of abuse. A wrap is said to last as long as a paint job on the average car or truck (8 to 10 years) Depending on how you care for it and if it's left out in the sun or not. Besides that, if you screw it up in a small spot, or have to replace plastics, all they have to do is reprint and wrap the new plastic or piece in the scratch or whatever and you're back on the road within a day or two versus waiting weeks and spending an A$$load of cash on custom painting! I'll post pics when I get mine done in the next month or so.. :thumbsup:

What's your bottom on the cylinders???

How about the rear shock??? I'll take the rear tires and wheels if they're still available...PM me.

I saw that bike in another thread...Looks great. I'm just not sure that the powder coat shops around here have the colors it would take to do somthing like that without breaking the bank to order the custom colors because I'd have to pay for a full bucket or bag or whatever the powder comes in on top of the labor. I'm going to use basecoat/clearcoat with some additives to make it more durable/scratch resistant and hope for the best....Probably get some frameguards and call it good.

I've seen that color, looks good. Great lookin quad. Think I'm going with solid laser yellow, then coming back with a green candy with some super green and yellow pearl mixed in it, or somthing along those lines. Somthing similar to anti freeze green.

Great example, maybe now everyone will comprehend.

Brake systems are nothing more than a hydraulic system. Equal pressure gets dispersed through the entire sytem no matter what. The more flexing and expanding you get in ANY system, the more braking power (Pressure) you are going to lose, thus weakening the pressure and ability to stop at the calipers. Stainless lines cure much of this pressure loss and flexing in the lines. Using dual calipers doesn't boost line pressure, but it provides twice the pad surface grabbing the rotors giving you a better, more sensitive braking system. I'm sure if he put the YFZ450 complete system and stainless lines on his quad, he would be MORE than satisfied. But if it were me, I'd try just the stainless lines first before I spent all that jack. :thumbsup:

I'm not sure what plastics I will use, maybe white, maybe black...I'm just gonna kinda play them off of the frame color. I realize every color has been used, but I'm going for a different effect, not so much color. Maybe a couple different colors of marbilizer or running a wire wheel over the frame/arms and coming back with a green or blue candy. Maybe a combination of the two. I dunno, just lookin for ideas really.

Got my frame stripped, about to add gussets and reinforcements where needed. Looking for ideas and color schemes for my frame/A Arms etc. Any ideas??? Pics?

Stainless braided lines do not expand or swell when the brakes are applied and pressure is built like rubber lines do. The more they expand and swell, the less pressure you're going to have at the calipers. If they are old and been in the heat, they break down and expand just like old radiator hoses on a car. Same reason any REAL race car has all braided lines, gotta stop all that speed.... Plus they look cool, and won't rub and wear and eventually bust like the rubber lines. :thumbsup:

So what you're saying is that you shaved some material off the sides of the stop on the frame to allow for sharper/more turning of the bars?? Bet that helps riding trails with hairpin turns, how much did you shave off each side? I already have a stabilizer, maybe it will help once I get it fixed.

Cool man, thanks!