afireblade929

I don't think so, i bought the crank new. Max load bearings don't have set pins?

I want to install my hot rods stroker crank, but I'm not sure if one of the crank bearings is right. I know that hot rods uses o-rings instead of set pins like on the oem crank bearings, but the pto main bearing doesnt use a o ring and hot rods says its suppose to have a set pin (actually a ball on the bearing) but i dont see anything on that main bearing; its completely smooth, except for the notch for the c clip! Hot rod says "The PTO main bearing has a small set pin (actually a ball) that must be located in the proper location in the cases. Failure to locate this pin will force the bearing out of round when the cases are clamped." Do you think they put the wrong bearing for that side? Anyone have any experience on installing these cranks? Any help would be appreciated.. Thanks!

Thanks for the input guys, ill try to get some pic's of the factory welds off of my crank so u guys can get a better look at it.

Yea, they are two good size spot welds on each side of the pin. Do you really think they will come apart with my setup?

Yea sounds like the floats aren't adjusted correctly. I had a similar problem and ended up being the float level. I would also disconnect the tors so you could rule out that as a problem. I believe you just disconnect the wires going into the black box underneath the left front side. Check the forums on how to disconnect the tors to make sure. Hope this helps!

I have a 89 Suzuki lt250r and i remember about a year ago i did a compression check and it was around 160. This is on a pretty much stock bike. I don't remember what book says, but i remember i was pretty good at 160. Hope this helps. Just looked at my manual and the book says it should be around 125psi!

There really aren't any "cheap replacement" shocks, unless you want to buy used stock banshee shocks. A good clean set of stock shocks will cost you around 60 bucks on ebay, maybe cheaper. You can even find some cheap used works shocks for around 150. I have some really clean shocks off a 03 banshee that are practically new, red in color with no chips. PM me if interested, hope this helps.

I just purchased a long rod stroker crank from Hot Rods today and by looking at the welds, I'm not sure if they are that strong. Has anyone had a bad experience with these welded cranks or knows someone that has had bad luck with them (i.e. crank separated)? I'm planning on running the stroker crank with an aggressive trail port without the spacer, around 180psi of compression, +5 advance, stock jetted carbs with pods and dmc 916 pipes. Do you guys think i will have any problems with this crank? I really didn't want to send the crank out to get re-welded, but i will if i have to. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated, Thanks!

That a good looking port job. Was it sand or media blasted in the intake? Who ported these cylinders for you?

Thats such a big help slobanshee, you really know what your talking about and i appreciate you taking time to measure a stock set of cylinders for this topic. I also appreciate everyone who put in their 2 cents to help me out on this. Thanks Guys!

Ok thanks, thats a big help. Is the exhaust the most important or should the floor of the intake be 2mm lower than stock to? Since the floor of the exhaust is 2mm lower, should the roof of the exhaust port be 2mm higher?

Hey guys, I'm interested in buying a pair of cylinder heads that have been supposedly mx ported for a 4mm stroker engine. In the cylinder intake ports, the guy who ported the cylinders wrote his name "Billy Winn". I'm hoping that someone on here knows who this guy is and what company he works for. If i find this out, i can call that company and give them the numbers they inscribed underneath the cylinder jugs which i believe is their order # or purchase order # and hopefully find out some details on the work they had done on them. Any help would be appreciated guys. Thanks! Oh i totally forgot to mention this, but these cylinders came off a engine that used the spacer plate underneath them. Is this a dead give away that they are not ported for a 4mm crank? And also is there any way to identify a 4mm port job? Measuring or???

I run the dmc 916 pipes and i like them. Although i expected more lower/mid power from the pipes, they do offer more low-mid power than the t5s. They also have a much smoother power band transition than the t5, but in a drag race the dmc would loose as the t5s has more top end pull. Also the 916 sound pretty sick.

Looking for a stock set of upper a arms, mainly the left upper. Will take both if good price, Or if anybody has a set of 2+1 arms they want to sell at a decent price, i will go that route also. If anybody has these, please get me with pictures and a price. Just wanna get my banshee going! Thanks

I want to powder coat my stock a arms, but i do not want to ruin my plastic ball joint bushings in an oven. Ive been hearing people talk about UV light curable power coatings on the internet and someone mentioned it to me on this forum, but no one around my area offers that type of powder coating. Just wanted to know if people on this board have herd or tried this type of powder coating and if they know of anyone who does this type of powder coating. Any help would be appreciated!

Interested in shocks. Do you have any pictures?

Thinking about powder coating my stock a arms and was wondering if anything would get messed up with the heat. I'm not sure if the ball joints have some type of plastic inside them or some type of bushing that will melt or distort with the heat. Just wanted to know if anyone has done this without any problems or complications. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!

Hey had the same problem on one of my shees. I cleaned out the carb like 3 times, made sure everything was good and still!!! Finally, i adjusted the float level on the missing cylinder and bang! idled fine and ran great. I was blown away that it was the float level because how did it get out of adjustment?? who knows??? Check that and see what happens

I had a similar problem that sounded like this. My bike had crappy throttle response and was running really rich with stock pilots. Tried syncing carbs, adjusting air screw, nothing.... Pulled spark plug boots off and found that the tip of a spark plug somehow came loose and unscrewed itself from the plug, causing poor spark on the left cylinder. Try checking the spark plugs and little stupid things like that before taking stuff apart. 25 pilots with the clip in the middle position and 1 1/2 turn out on the sir screw should be fine, although 27.5 pilots will work as well depending on what pipes you have. Hope this was of help to you.

Yea, something could have been in the carb and cleared out. That would make sense, but either way its fine now so either the carb got plugged or the chrome on dmc pipes suck. Thanks for you input guys, i appreciate it!

Although the bike was pinned wide open every gear for 3 passes, i didnt expect anything to discolor badly either, especially that left silencer tube...

JUST WANTED SOME PEOPLES OPINION ON MY 03 SHEE. I RECENTLY PUT A DMC 916 SYSTEM AND JETTED TO DMC SPECS (27.5 PILOT AND 280 MAINS, CLIP IN THE MIDDLE AND AIR SCREW AT 1 1/2 TURNS OUT) WITH THE RECOMMENDED HOLE ON THE AIR BOX LID. THE BIKE RAN FINE AROUND THE BLOCK. BUT WHEN I LOOKED AT THE PIPES LEADING UP TO THE SILENCER, THE LEFT SIDE WAS A DARK BROWN PURPLE AND RIGHT SIDE HAD A SLIGHT HAZE ON THE CHROME BUT NOT VERY NOTICABLE. MY FIRST REACTION WAS THAT THE LEFT CYLINDER WAS RUNNING LEAN, BUT I DID A PLUG CHOP AND BOTH CYLINDERS HAD A NICE BROWN 2MM RING. ALSO BOTH HEADERS LOOK THE SAME, NO ONE LOOKS DARKER THAN THE OTHER, SO WHY DID THE LEFT SILENCER TUBE GET SO HOT??????? IM STUMPED, AND ANY HELP OR SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

Just wanted to know if i could get some peoples opinion on the dmc alien exhaust. Their website is very vague on their description and doesn't offer to much info, but from what i have herd they are a good exhaust providing power gains everywhere but mostly on the top end like t5's?? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Thanks, but it already looks like some one already bought them. Thanks anyways dout.

Hey the t5's will work with the stock silencers, but you need to cut off about an inch and a half off of the silencer as the stock silencer will not fit into the toomey pipe and is too long. I also used high temp silicone tubing as someone already posted.