04titanse
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Posts posted by 04titanse
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i have my banshee running pretty damn good @ 35 degrees here in connecticut but i am going to an indoor MX track tommorow and its going to be like 30 degrees warmer. how much should my main jet drop??? i am just looking for a ball park assuming all is equal but the temp is rising between 20-30 degrees. I am at a 300 main jet with stock pilot. thanks
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are you shure it wasn't at -5?? mine is at +5 with 19cc domes and absolutely rips.. i bet your gap on the pickup was off, i would try the timing plate one more time , make sure it is at +5 or +4. and check the gap on the pickup coil. if its not right it will run like shit.. i use a business card to set the gap.
yeah i am going to put the timing plate back on and double check everything. i have a feeler gauge and i gapped when i put the stock plate back on. I am just happy it runs good now. I am going to get a cool head and play with the timing when i get some time. I am still really impressed with the power the toomey T5's make!!!! she really hauls ass.
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Well after almost two months of on and off work on the banshee and lots of trouble getting her running again i finally got it. I changed the pipes and silencers, timing plate, boyseen reeds, and a clamp on K&N with outerwears. All my trouble were associated with the timing plate. I had it set to +5 but for some reason that was advancing the timing way way too much and no matter what i did it was boggy and had like zero power. Now with all those parts and a stock timing plate the bike runs sooooo much stronger than stock. its unbelievable, i can wheelie 1,2,3 and fourth siting and only using throttle no clutch and the power band is harsh but really strong. everyone on here helped me out big time with getting this machine running right so thanks a lot!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The toomey t5's make real nice top end, hopefully now my banshee can keep up with my raptor 700r se. thanks again all!!!!
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First thing I'd try is another flywheel, see if that cures your problem.
Then...if the gap is still that different, time to check the true of your crank.
could the flywheel being warped or bent or even the crank being messed up be causeing my tuning issues or would it be a totally different set of problems??
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What was the air gap...and how much was the variance?
the gap on one magnet i made to spec and the other was like twice a large.
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Yep...I think we all have...LOL...
What about the air gap between the pickup coil and flywheel magnets?
i made sure the gap was right with a feeler gauge or whatever you call it. but.......i did notice that one of the two magnets is closer than the other to the pickup coil....
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Did you line the case half split with the mark on the plate you desired your timing to be at? (+4 is the norm)
Did you reset the flywheel to pickup coil air gap? Should be .015 to .018, and check each magnet on the flywheel...
With your temps and mods, here's where I'd start.
1.0 turns out on the air screws. Leave the stock pilots in there.
300 mains. Needle on the 4th clip down from the blunt end (if it's Toomey/Dynojet needle, there are 6 grooves total, 4th from the top is the starting point)
Do one jetting change at a time...and warm the bike up completely before you ride it for the results.
If changing the pilot and/or needle clip position don't improve things, go back to the electrical system.
You hooked the carbs back up correctly, right?
Choke tube in place, didn't swap bowls, slides in the right carb....
the timing plate is set to +4 and it is set at the crack in the case, i double checked. The carbs are together correct,i know because i did it wrong the first time and have now corrected it. I will try like a 300 main with the needle on the 4th clip and air screw 1-1.5 turns out and check back in. thanks for all the help everyone.
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alirght i will throw a 300 or a 310 main jet and play with it but i have done that before with no positive results. the electrical on the bike was 100% before i replaced the pipes so i cant imagine it is messed up now. unless i screwed somthing up when i changed the timing plate. do you think the timing plate could be the problem? i just remembered that i also changed the stator plate. maybe i messed it up some how so my timing is like way + or way - . is that possible???
could way advanced or retarded timing cause lean like running?
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i have recently taken my stock banshee with tors removed that ran great and have done some mods and cannot get it running.
Mods - 2000 banshee
advance timing + 4
K&N clamp on NO lid
Toomey t5's with silencers
compression 115-120 both sides
Jetting right now: toomey needles on the 4th clip/340 mains/ stock pilots
avg temp 35-40 degrees/ elevation 450-750 above sea level
It starts fine and idles good. revs fine off or idle in neutral.
It very hard to start without stalling. and has like zero power and is always very boggy and runs terrible. No powerband at all and can't even wheelie in first gear. It is still running very very lean even with the 340 main. I know its lean because if i put the airbox lid back on it runs better. Still really really bad, but better none the less.
tonight i checked all the rubber parts for cracks and air leaks and even pulled the head off and looked at the pistons and the cylinder walls and everything looks perfect.
I am getting very discouraged because i have tried like 15 different jetting combinations and different needle clips and airscrew adj and nothing really seems to make it much better or worse. ANY help would be greatly appreciated. I am trying to go on a trip with my finance and cant get the banshee running! thanks and sorry for the long post.
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come one anyone have any advice i need to get this thing running?
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damn man thats terrible. I cant imagine there is a good way to salvage that shaft. i guess the only way to find out would be to cut off the very very end and see if you can get that bolt off and manage to thread a new one on. but my guess is that you wont be able to reuse that and you will be replacing the entiire shaft back into the tranny. best of luck!
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ok i just put in 320 mains and the air screw .5 turns out from seated. the dynojet needle is on the 3rd clip. and it runs much better than before. but it still has very little power, i did this with the k&N clamp on with outerwears and with the lid on. when i took the lid off, it ran like shit again bogging and crap. with the lid on i can get through the gears but it reallys hti power band very little and it has like no power at all. i feel like going from the 280 to the 320 made a big difference but is it possible that i still need to go bigger? it seems like with my mods 320 should be more than big enough.
also i feel like an idiot for asking but where is the pilot jet, i cant find it and i cant get one from the dealer unless i show them the stock one to compare to? sorry for the stupid question but i searched and could not find anything about it location is the carb. pictures would help but any advice is appreciated. you guys have helped me out so much the last week I love the forum!!!!!!!!! hopefully the more i learn i can help people out when they are having the same troubles i am
2000 banshee
toomey t5's with silencers
+4 degrees timing
k&N clamp on with lid on
jetting
stock pilot
320 mains
air screw .5 out
avg elev. under 1000
avg. temp 40-45 degrees
i am going to correct myself here. when i was testing with the 280 main i was running without a lid and even with the 320 it made no difference.; so its like i didnt really change a hole hell of a lot. obviously with the lid on it will essentially richen it a little by restricting the flow of air and therefore giving less air to the mixture.
what i dont understand is that all the signs say it running too lean but even when going from a 280 to a 320 it really runs no different.
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ok i just put in 320 mains and the air screw .5 turns out from seated. the dynojet needle is on the 3rd clip. and it runs much better than before. but it still has very little power, i did this with the k&N clamp on with outerwears and with the lid on. when i took the lid off, it ran like shit again bogging and crap. with the lid on i can get through the gears but it reallys hti power band very little and it has like no power at all. i feel like going from the 280 to the 320 made a big difference but is it possible that i still need to go bigger? it seems like with my mods 320 should be more than big enough.
also i feel like an idiot for asking but where is the pilot jet, i cant find it and i cant get one from the dealer unless i show them the stock one to compare to? sorry for the stupid question but i searched and could not find anything about it location is the carb. pictures would help but any advice is appreciated. you guys have helped me out so much the last week I love the forum!!!!!!!!! hopefully the more i learn i can help people out when they are having the same troubles i am
2000 banshee
toomey t5's with silencers
+4 degrees timing
k&N clamp on with lid on
jetting
stock pilot
320 mains
air screw .5 out
avg elev. under 1000
avg. temp 40-45 degrees
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i just put the needle of the 3rd clip and put the air screws .5 turns out and it still runs about the same. runs better with full choke so its obviously still very lean. i just picked up some more main jets and i am going to try a 320 main.
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IF running stock pilot , turn air/fuel screw only 1/2 turn out. If it likes it but needs more i highly recommend 27.5 pilots. Prolly should run a 310-320 main with clamp on's, timing, and 40 degrees!!
i will play with air screw and then most likely change the pilot jet and put a fatter main. I am using the dynojet needle on the 4th clip down from the top flat part. so i will put it on the 3rd clip. also do you sell jet for stock carbs? if so should i give you a call.
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Your main is too small and air screw is out too far( personal opinion though)...Swap out with a 300-340 main, needle in 3rd clip, airscrew out 1.5-2 turns out and see what happens..May need to drop in a bigger pilot. Also try moving the air screw to 1-1.5 turens out and see what happens before you start taking things apart. The popping isn't from the packing that's from the jetting being off. Sounds like you're running lean
handyman i will try to mess with the air screw and then change to a 340 main and see what happens. the dynojet kit only came with a 280 and 340 so i will need to get some more jets. but i will give it a shot thanks for the help
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any one else have any opinion on where i should start. a 340 main sounds huge for just bolt ons. also what size pilot jets should i consider, i want to buy a bunch on mains and pilots so that i can experiment and change for seasons and for location. I am really trying to get this machine running again. if anyone can please help i would appreciate it.
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i have two questions:
1.) where can i get a couple diff. main jets
2.) where is the piolet jet and what does it do?
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i have a 2000 banshee stock motor here are my mods:
toomey t5 pipes and silencers
clamp on k&n with outerwears going to prob put the lid on with vents and remove the outerwears
adj timing plate +4 timing
right now i have 280 mains with dynojet needle on the 4th clip from the blunt side with the air screws 2.5 turns from all the way in.
compression is between 115-120 in both cylinders.
average elevation is under 1000ft temp now is around 40-45 degrees
right now the bike starts well and idles ok but runs terrible. hard to drive without stalling due to serious bogging. cannot get out of 1st gear easily. 1/4 throttle is the most i can give it without it bogging and stalling. with choke on it runs a little better but still terrible. it doesn't over rev and the rpms drop back like normal. when reving in neutral it feels almost normal... a little slow on reving but not terrible. the pipes and silencers are used and i think the packing is shot because it pops a bunch and sounds kinda bad.
i am very confused and any help with this would be great. I am new at jetting and trying to get this running well.
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after taking the shee for a spin i realized that it is very far out of tune. it starts good and idles ok..... once i start to ride it is super boogy at like all th rottle positions. it feels slower than my old blaster did. no matter what throttle position is feels really poor. it stalled the first two times i tried to start. it has so little power you need to give it lots of gas to get going. it revs fine in neutral a little slow but doesn't over rev. any ideas what i should change with the jetting????
right now this is what i have:
stock motor/toomey t5 pipes and silencers/k&N filer with outerwears and no lid./ adj timing plate +4 timing advance/ dyno jet jet kit 280 mains/ dyno jet needle on 4th clip from top/air screws 2.5 turns out./ elevation is below 1000ft on avg. temp is around 40's right now.
any help would be great!!!
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very well could be the silencers, i would start at a 300 main though if your not running the lid, the needle will either end up where you got it or you might have to move it up to the third clip if its a little boggy in the midrange, but youll probally be a little lean up top with no lid and a 280, better to start a little rich then lean
the dyno jet kit i got came with a 280 and a 340 obviously the 340 is way to big. i think i am going to stick with the 280's for now since they are already installed in the carb. obviously if i need 300's i will get them.
So i guess tomorrow i will take her for a spin and see how it runs. and i will go from there. its like midnight now and i think i would have some angry neighbors if i took her for a rip now. i will keep the old plugs in and try and get it tuned right and then i will put some new ones in and recheck to see if if they look like i am running lean. thanks again for all your help!
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the bikes motor is 100% stock. toomey t5 pipes and silencers, K&N filter with outerwear no lid, compresion 115-120 both cylinders. ricky stator adj timing plate +4 degrees timing. i have a 280 main jet with the dynojet needle on the 4th clip from the top. air screw 2.5 turns out. i will take it for a ride tommorow to see how it runs but it runs and idles but it pops a lot. could the poping be due to bad packing in the silencers? they are used.
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alright chevy7398 was right on. my slides were switched and thats why is was running on one cylinder better than the other. Now they both run strong but they are both poping or sort of backfiring. i dont know what back firing on a 2stroke sounds like. It sounds more of a poping and its all the time. when idling and when giving it throttle. any idea how i should adjust my jetting or anything.
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oh wow i didn't realize that the slides were different....i did have them wrong i will change that right away.
but even though that was wrong why would one cylinder run so much different that the other. Right hand cylinder pushes a lot of exhaust out and is very loud put kinda pops or back fires and the left cylinder pushes very little exhaust out and is quite and doesn't pop or make any irregular sounds. I understand that my carb slides were wrong and i will fix that but what is causing my cylinders to run diff. it ran pretty good before the pipes and jetting???? so confused
motor
in Wanted
Posted
i am looking for an inexpensive complete motor. Or a mostly complete motor, its going to be a project build. if it needed some work or had probelms that would be fine. I am in Connecticut so within 3 hours i would pick up or we could ship it,
thanks
andrew