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Figured out no, it is fixed tho, I replaced just about everything, stator, flywheel, CDI, carbys, reeds, and it still did it but the problem did swap sides, then after that I swapped plugs again with plugs I had already tried and it all worked. So I don't know what the problem was.

Ok so I have since checked my reeds (looked fine) but swapped them out any way with some stock reeds. I have also changed the carbys just to eliminate any chance of it being them. I Started it back up but it's still the same, only running the the left cylinder. The right side pipe just blew out unburnt fuel. I covered the right side pipe with my hand and after a few seconds the bike starts to rev up, obviously covering the left pipe after a few seconds kills the engine. Any more thoughts of what else I could check?

Hey every one, last night during dirt circuit my bike was running awesome in the first round But in the second race on the second lap it dropped back to 1 cylinder (only running on the left) so I pulled up and spent the rest of the night trying to fix it but not sure what has happened. The first thing I did was a compression test, both at 140psi still (same as b4 the race) I thought it was a carb problem (35mm pwk air strikers) but I swapped them around and it's still only the left cylinder running. Tried new plugs, swapped plug leads still the same. If a reed petal broke could it cause this kinda thing to happen? Cheers, Paul

Also I'm pretty much at sea level...

Hey every 1 I have just finished building a little stock stroke/ cylinder shee but I don't want to run the stock carbys and I have everything new to put some Keihin PJ 34mm carbys on it, but I would like to know ruff pilot and mains jetting to get me started. The engine isn't to much just Bills pipes, v force 2s, 22cc cool head, vortex ignition, and ported, I'm not sure what kind of porting it is but looks good. The new carbys came with 160 mains and 48pilots fitted and came with spare 168 - 45 jets. Any info would be great, thank you, Paul

Heres my green and black Shee.

Is any 1 able to get dome close up pics of there wheelie bar set ups just so I can try and make my own as I don't know of any 1 in Australia that sells them. Thank you, Paul

What does float the ground mean?

Cheers for that chugger, I'm not running lights it's just for my flat track bike. Where about do I need to plug that rectifier in to my wiring loom? Cheers, Paul

As the topic states I just wana make my Shee keep charge in a battery so I can run a small thermo fan. Any info would be great thank you, Paul.

I haven repacked the silencers I'll check them out. I did put the air box lid back and it seemed to stop alot of the backfiring in-between revs. Still not perfect at the top end of things, but it's got 290mains and 30pilot jets and the needle has been lifter 1 clip from stock. Maybe I'll try with 310 mains and check the silencers

Cheers for that. I just swapped the tank and fuel tap over from my brothers shee and checked it flows well. Also took the earth off at the voltage regulator cleaned it and put it back on. I didn't notice any earth lead near the coil so I made a new 1. The bike stil has the same ptoblem back firing This bike is doing my head in. Any more ideas???

Hey everyone, I recently rebuild a stock bore banshee I got it running and it seems to backfire out on the pipes after a big rev the back off then hit the gas again or if you ride it after about 1/2 throttle it's constantly back firing. I changed the magneto, timing key stater plate back to stock, re jetted the carbys 30piolt 290 mains it's got FMF pipes and a foam filter no lid. So yesterday I pulled the engine out and put another motor in straight out of my brothers complete running perfectly Shee. I also transferee the carbys cables ,complete wiring loom, coil, cdi and switches and even the pipes off his bike. Kicked it over and it's back firing on this engine now??? I have run out of ideas any help would be great. Thank you

Hey everyone, on the weekend i took my new cheetah cub out to a local flat track race, after 2 races of running sweet i check the radiator and topped the coolant up, i then tryed to start it and found the bike wouldnt rev much off idle exactly like it still had the TORS connected and the park brake was applyed. the TORS system has always been looped out in to each other so i disconncted the black box and un looped the grey plugs and there was no differance, I wasnt sure if something might had got wet from topping up the radiator. i then disconnceted every plug and cleaned everything out. after 45minutes with no luck constantly trying everything i could think of i was ready to load the bike back on the trailer then i just gave it 1 more try and it had just fixed itself just in time to put my helmet on and get on the track. has this every happened to any 1 else b4? It hasnt played up before or since the weekend. Even after washing the bike and heaps of wet muddy races in the past. Im still running it with the black tors box disconnected and the gray plugs unplugged and its running sweet. If you want any more info or to know anything else ill add more, i just dont want this to happen again. cheers, Paul

What kinda plugs are you using. This happened to me after a rebuild when I was using standard NGK type plugs then I just put some iridium plugs in and it's all good now, more then likely it's just the plug gap tho.

Hey im just after some input on porting, I recently bought a old 1982 YZ100 and it came with a spare parts engine, I noticed some 1 had drilled 2x 6mm holes on the intake side of the barrles and they lead straight down to the crankcase. By doing this what sort of power grains could be expected? Would it be top end power with a noticable loss of bottom end performance? I noticed Cheetah cubs have simular intake port holes. any info on this would be great thank you, Paul Stock Banshee intake ports 421 cub intake ports

I got my answer from TDR he said "A lot more torque and acceleration and about 15+ top end HP"

A bit more info, I would use the same 39mm carbys, same dynatek ignition and the same out of frame drag pipes. Only change would be the pistons, barrels and head.

Hey, I'm just wondering what sort of horse power increase there would be if I went from my 465cc cheetah to a 535cc. Thank you, Paul

Hey every 1, I just have a quick question, I have a Boondocker nitrous kit that I'm planning on sticking on an engine the only thing is I'm not sure if the bottle is ment to be mounted upside down with the valve facing the ground or it sitting upright facing the sky?? Any info would be great. Thank you, Paul

I actually got the ratios off of this forum in another RZ subject. and it wasnt about using a custom made trans. Its funny how you say there is no differance when I have a 2 gear clusters in front of me 1 being RZ and the other being Banshee and there is differances. If they were the same do you think I would even bring the subject up? Any way hear is some pics, ive built the engine. all thats left to do is put it in and try it.

Why would you say theres no differance when one of the biggest differances between the RZ and the Shee engine is the trans ratios. Dont bother commenting if you have no idea what your talking about. Banshee Tranny Ratios: 1st-- 2.461 2nd-- 1.812 3rd-- 1.500 4th-- 1.250 5th-- 1.045 6th-- 0.875 RZ 350 Tranny Ratios: 1st-- 2.571 2nd-- 1.778 3rd-- 1.318 4th-- 1.083 5th-- 0.962 6th-- 0.889

Hey everyone, I have been thinking about this for a while now and have all the parts to build a new engine, I was just keen to see if any one had build a banshee engine and used the rz350s gear box before? What sort of speed could a 421 cheetah reach with 17/40 gearing with the RZ box and 20" tyres? any thoughts on the subject would be good Thanx, Paul

I use 20" rear Turf tamers and 20" front razr MX 15/43 gearing. As for rim offset its better to keep the front rims shallow and have long A arms to put less stress on your body as its easier to steer this way. The deeper dish offset you run the less ride time you will have b4 getting arm pump. But if you are only doing 4 laps of the 400 meter track you should be ok to run wide offset front rims. Thats just my thoughts....