Rex789

I found it on trinity racings site for $130. Im wondering if it's worth the money and worth installing in my bike. Will I really notice anything?

is this product really worth the $130 (trinity racing) do you notice a difference?

wacko2000: what gearing ar you running with your +2 swingarm? and what size tires do you use?

this might be kinda off topic, but i have been using the search option and just want more opinions before i install my new rear sproket... i talked to a guy a trinity racing and he told me to go with a 42 rear sproket and he said it will tear ass... im running a stock 14 front sproket.. i have a few tire sizes but i like my 18s in the rear... but also have 20s... i know that having a 42 in the rear will give me more power but sacrifice my top end (by not much) so my question is if i should return my 42 rear sproket and get a 41 tooth (stay stock)... or another size?

alrite cool, i figured the +4 swingarm would be too much for my bike and my truck bed, so im going to go with the +2 swingarm. im running a 42 rear sproket gearing and stock front sproket: would i have to get a new longer chain then with the +2 swingarm? i like cascade's swingarm so im going to get one of those, but im real pumped to turn my machine into a real badass mother fucker, so i want to do everything right and the bolt ons just dont cut it for me. I'm going with the +4 mil stroker build and an agressive dune port with shear pipes. for new carbs do you guys think i should go with the 28mm PWK, 30 PWK (if they make them) or the 33 PWK? I've been searching a lot and found that the majority of everyone says the 35mm PWK carbs r too big, and i want to keep my bottom end power but dont want to lose my top end. im going to work my ass off for the next few months for the money and put everything together, since im new to porting and all, i would appreciate any comments or suugestions from all you experienced pros that have all been there, done that with all this shit. I'm going to advance my timing to +4 so i can still run on pump gas too, as well as install a dial-a-jet on my new carbs.

haha thats whats up, but i weigh between 125 and 130 so u think if i do all that shit to my bike and put a +2 swinger on it, it'll throw me around? or u think ill just have fun all over the place with it? im afraid to go +4 cuz the bed in my truck is 5 foot n i have to leave the tailgate down already just for my shee to fit; i think i can make it with a +2 but not a +4

i duno whether to go with a +2 or a +4 swingarm... i weigh between 125 and 130 lbs so i mite just go with the +2 swingarm. but im going to have a lot of shit done to my shee within the next few months (defenetly agressive dune port and shears, maybe a +4 mil stroker build as well) so i duno if i should go with a +4 to be on the safer side; but at the same time i dont think having a +4 swingarm will fit my shee in the back of my '05 tacoma... and that would suck

whats the difference between cascade innovation's swingarms and american star racing swingarms? American star racing ( http://www.amstarmanufacturing.com/Swingarms.html ) sells for $660 with the swingarm and carrier and cascade innvoations ( http://webforce.nwrain.net/founder/cascade...TORE_DEPT_ID=43 ) sells for $775 and its all chromed out and comes with a polished twin row carrier, chrome pinch bolts, pivot bolt bearings, and a polished brake caliper mount. its a lot of money but it seems to offer more. Im going to get an agressive dune port and if i have the money by summer, a 4 mil stroker as well. i dont know if i want to leave my swingarm stock cuz of bad things that could happen but it mite be fun to always be up off the ground... would you reccomned going +2 or +4?

alright after reading all this i think im just going to go with porting... all these bolt on's arent cutting it for me so it looks like porting is the only answer... i think im going to send my cylinders out to F.A.S.T. in june and get a play/dune port. and what size carbs would you suggest? and if i do this then id prob go with the shear's (wats the difference between the big bore and small bore?) im also going to change my pistons but im not sure what size yet, maybe the weisco pro-lites .050 (65.25mm). so right there with all this im looking at a lot of money... anything else you think is necessary to have done, if i do all this? would i have to do the crank as well too?

hey im looking for the most power without porting but at the same time i dont want to lose too much bottom end. right now i have vforce3 reeds, a noss cool head w/ 20 cc domes, K&N filters, trinity intake manifolds, and pro circuit pipes. I'm getting an advanced timing plate and placing it +4. I'm planning on getting new carbs but im not sure with whether to go with the 28mm PWK or 30mm PWK? This probably comes into play with my pipes, if my friend gets a banshee im going to sell him my pro circuits and either go with Rockets, Shears or the PT Hi-Rev's. (Ive heard that CPI fitment sucks so im not thinking about getting those, and ive heard the toomey t-5's arent all that great either) basically im just looking for stronger pipes that will go well with my new carbs without sacrificing too much bottom end. i know those are all high end pipes, and the shears may be more for ported engines. also whats the deal with a 4mm crankshaft? would i have to change my pistons if i did this mod? who should i order it from? I'm moving my banshee from upstate ny to tucson az. I know you guys are very good at this and have helped me in the past and i appreciate all your suggestions and comments. thanks

nice thanx for all the help man i appreciate it, im going to my shee next week and thats when im going to be doing all this, along with a coolhead installment. so im gonna be pretty busy with my baby haha, but ill let you know how everything goes and if i fuck something up and need some more advice. thanx again

haha nice thanx for the very detailed explanation... hopefully ill be able to comprehend it all and not fuck anything up. sounds like its kinda hard (maybe just cuz im confused) but hopefully i dont fuck anything up... and i have the stock chain on, its a 2003 so its got wear. hopefully (i think) the chain will fit around the new sproket. do i really have to soak the bolts with penetrating oil the night before? what will that do? loctite on the rotor bolts only? not loctite the sproket bolts too? and what do you mean about adjusting the chain and useing loctite on the bolts? and i need to bend the sproket lock tabs off the sproket nuts by using a screwdriver?

hey i got a new 42 tooth rear sproket on the way (stock chain and stock front sproket) and a new rear brake rotor with new brake pads... i have the service manual all printed out but i wanted to get some advice from all you guys before i start takin shit apart n fuckin it all up. so how should i go about doin this? as well as puttin it all back together? Or should I take it to the stealership or shop n have them do it?

can anyone help me with this?

ok but what about the fuel coming out the overflow tubes? will that affect the way the dial a jet system works? and what about the K&N filters? will there be enough room?

hey i bought the dial a jet system but havnt installed it yet because im considering returning it for a few reasons: changing main jets isn't that hard. I have the stock carbs and when its at idle or turned off and I leave the fuel on, fuel drips out the drain tubes on the bottom of the float bowls. Ive tapped on them and that doesnt solve the problem. I had this problem many times with my blaster and the dealership just rips you off so im fine with turning the fuel line off whenever its not running, but wouldn't it affect how the dial a jet system works since the thing runs off pressure? I havnt tried cleaning the drain screw on the bottom of the float bowl or tightening it or cleaning the pilot jets, even tho i just installed brand new 27.5's, maybe that will work. Basically i havnt screwed around with any of that yet. but for the dial a jet system im supposed to replace that drain screw with the dial a jet spigot, so wouldnt fuel still drip out the tubes on the bottom of the bowls or am i supposed to plug those holes? (the instructions were kind of unclear there) any help or advice would be greatly appreciated... i also have K&N filters and it seems like they would barely slide over the carb because of the dial a jet system that i tap and install. thats giving me another reason to return the kit, unless theres plenty of room for the K&N filters to be fitted on the carbs with the dial a jet system installed. just for the hell of it my mods are pro circuit pipes, vforce3 reeds, K&N filters, no airbox or lid, dynojet needle and im about to install a noss coolhead with 20cc domes. thanx

hey i bought the dial a jet system but havnt installed it yet because im considering returning it for a few reasons: changing main jets isn't that hard. I have the stock carbs and when its at idle or turned off and I leave the fuel on, fuel drips out the drain tubes on the bottom of the float bowls. Ive tapped on them and that doesnt solve the problem. I had this problem many times with my blaster and the dealership just rips you off so im fine with turning the fuel line off whenever its not running, but wouldn't it affect how the dial a jet system works since the thing runs off pressure? I havnt tried cleaning the drain screw on the bottom of the float bowl or tightening it or cleaning the pilot jets, even tho i just installed brand new 27.5's, maybe that will work. Basically i havnt screwed around with any of that yet. but for the dial a jet system im supposed to replace that drain screw with the dial a jet spigot, so wouldnt fuel still drip out the tubes on the bottom of the bowls or am i supposed to plug those holes? (the instructions were kind of unclear there) any help or advice would be greatly appreciated... i also have K&N filters and it seems like they would barely slide over the carb because of the dial a jet system that i tap and install. thats giving me another reason to return the kit, unless theres plenty of room for the K&N filters to be fitted on the carbs with the dial a jet system installed. just for the hell of it my mods are pro circuit pipes, vforce3 reeds, K&N filters, no airbox or lid, dynojet needle and im about to install a noss coolhead with 20cc domes. thanx

thanx for all the reply's, I ordered mine today

deos anybody have any pics of the dial a jet system installed on their carbs?

wheres the bell of the carb located? im running pump gas

im also thinking about getting the dial a jet to solve the problems with temperature change... im just wondering where i would install the thing since i have k&n's on my carbs?... also how much of a bitch it is to install the thing?

ok i got it, it was the throttle cable.. thanx for all the help

hey im new to this forum and i need some help... i just installed pro circuit pipes and vforce reeds and as soon as i start it, it revs real high to the point where i have to shut it off.. its as if the throttle is pinned... another thing i noticed was that for the brief second its started the right pipe gets real hot and the left one stays cold (maybe the left cylinder isnt firing?)... my choke tube is connected between the 2 carbs... i took the air filters off and noticed that the carbs dont sync when i push the throttle... the left one stays a little higher than the right... if this is the problem than how do i fix it? if not then what is? any help would be greatly appreciated.. thanx

Hey im new to the forum and just bought an 03 banshee and im looking to put pro circuits or paul turner mids. i ride mostly trails and they are pretty open.. im looking for a very strong low to mid end pipe but without sacrificing any top end.. at the same time im looking for a strong top end pull as well, thats better than stock.. ive searched the forum for days and have been reading up but i havnt really found any posts that compare the 2 pipes. im going to put vforce3 reeds and the motor is stock except for dynojet kit and its got a dumbass boost bottle which i'll take off if it hurts performance. suggestions and opinions would be greatly appeciated. thanx