fitz18

No never got a chance but i think Il do one tonight or tomorrow morning. Should I still go up in the main do you think? Or just do the leak test and take it from there?

What makes you think it could not just be jetting banshee man? Ive cleaned the carbs twice and am confident there is not dirt in them. Where would the leak be? How would I know what to look out for?

Ive been researching this topic non stop. I havent really found any solution but I think I will go up in the main and do a plug chop that way. Then I can be sure Im not running lean and cause any real damage. Then Il take it from there. Jetting sucks ass!!!! lol

Sorry if i was unclear. I do need the choke to start the bike but when Its running and i pull the choke out it dies almost straight away. I was writing that in response to blessedwithdeath's question.

All this help is fantastic guys. Il hopefully be doing rings soon!! The float height is spot on. The needle and screw is seating as it should. There was alittle fuel coming out of the long pipe attached to the bottom of the carbs but since I have cleaned them out it has stopped. The shee will not run with the choke out at all. Not even half out. Im going to try a larger main to make sure I dont run lean. The air screws are set at 1&1/2 turns out. Is this about right? 2ss your a legend. Really great info on jetting you sent. My needle is on 2nd clip from bottom end (like the end where the needle goes pointy). O and yeah it is a stock needle as far as I know. The bike boggs at low rpms. Like 1st and 2nd gear. Like I was in a field with my mates and I couldnt do donuts in 2nd gear on muddy ground. She just wanted to die!!! The help is great guys! Keep it coming!

No its fine. any help is fantastic. I dont think it will solve the problem either as it worked fine before and I never touched the needle position. Hopefully someone else with a little more time on their hands will be able to chime in!! :thumbsup:

Thanks bansheman! REally starting to bother me this bogging. Il move the needle to middle clip. Gona try 260 mains as well. Hope this fixes it. Cheers :biggrin:

Anybody?? Any ideas what I could do? Does needle position affect bogging. I never moved it but it is in the 2nd clip? Which way would I move it?

Guys all the help is really appreciated. The bike is great at higher rpm's. Its just at low rpm i have the problem. Like it REALLY boggs. I have to give loads of revs to stop stalling. Im 100% sure about the slides. Half moon to back of bike/ air box side. Lepew i changed my cylinders in the rebuild and put wiseco's in. My jugs were marked too deep so I bought a set from firehead on here. They have a mild dune port so I may need to go up in my main because of this. However this will not fix my bogging issue. I never did a leak test. Would this cause bogging? I did torque all nuts to the specs in clymers so I dont know what else it could be. Thaks for all the help guys. Keep the suggestions comming :thumbsup:

What else could it be? Any ideas since you guys are the pros? Il stick some 260's in and see how I go with a plug chop.

Guess im one of those guys who cuts the snorkle bansh-eman!!!! lol :biggrin:

Im at sea level. Would it make any difference that Im in Ireland though? Would small mains cause bogging guys?? Whats do yas think?

thanks for all the replys guys. Il clear up some confusion Air box and lid still on, just snorkle removed Tors completely removed Never touched any electrical wires when did rebuild My mains I was told were ok for ireland my local guy told me Choke tube in place and slides in correct carbs Would small mains make my bike bogg at low rpms? Maybe my local guy is wrong with mains size. I put the 240s in when i put the pipes on about 5months ago. Any other suggestions? Thanks everyone

Guys I need your help with this one. I just rebuilt my shee. It was running fine but started bogging really bad when i was ridung it. Like it wouldnt even do donuts in 2nd gear I have taken the carbs apart and completely cleaned them. I was thinking it was stuck floats or something. I dont know where to go with this now guys. PLEASE HELP!! My mods are dmc aliens, 240 mains, k & N filter with snorkle removed, mild dune ported clyinders i got from firehead. ANy help would be fantastic. I want to do rings lol

I just put the standard clucth back in and never thought of checking the cushions. Ive read they can cause a sattle is this true? I didnt loctite my nut on so I will prob do that now. Is it essential to do that?

Im just back in after checkin plugs and they are dark brown so I really dont think its lean. I adjusted the idle as well and now I can t hear the rattle at all. but before i did that it was quite loud. Im hoping its nothing to serious. Its been that long since ive been on a shee i forgot how they sounded :biggrin: Is it possible to tell if a bike is lean when breaking it in by lloking at the plugs. obviously i cant do a plug chop as i have to drive the shee easy but would the plugs give me a good indication if she was lean? The lean condition is the only thing that concerns me.

Yeah I tightened it to the torque specs in clymers. Im gona pull the plugs to see what shape they are in. A local builder told me 240mains are fine but with the ported cylinders i would have been inclinded to go up. Also the rattle is only there at idle. Any other ideas folks? Thanks for the replys!

Hi guys, Ive just got my motor after doing a full rebuild myself. I was a bit nervous about starting it but it started no problem. Any way I have been doing the heat cycles on it and just took it sown the road there. I was driving nice and easy and trying to hear for any abnormal noises. Anyway when the bike is just sitting and ideling I can hear like a rattle. like there is a loose nut in there. It seems to be coming from the bottom end. I dont know what it cud be. maybe the push rod and cluctch ball?? It sounds like its on the left side. JUst wanted to check on here what yous thought cos I cant afford another rebuild if ive done something wrong. I have dmc alien pipes, 240mains, mild ported cylinders from firehead on here, wiseco pistons standard bore. Any help? TIA guys

This may sound dumb but can I not just cut the ball bearing off the end of the adjuster and buy a new ball bearing?? Will this not work the same? :shrug:

:yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: Thanks guys! Il try what you've said and let you's know how I get on. Im a bit concerned that I might not be able to fully simulate the 120hp cub which may affect my shifting abilities but Il give it a dam good go!!! :yelrotflmao:

Gonna hit they hay here guys but keep the solutions coming! Cant wait to get her bcak up and running! Any help is fantastic. Thanks :beer:

Yeah i did have the trans out but just to clean the case out. I just double checked and the shift forks are definalely in the correct places. When I put the shifter on I should be able to shift all the way down to 1st corect? Then up a little to neutral?? I cant do this! Can I tell by looking if the gears are in neutral?

Yeah im working with the bottom half assembled. I have it on the bench with the clutch cover off and I have watched the shift star turning but it only moves up one and then back down again. i have set it up so the adjustable screw has equal amount of space on either side of the shift star just like the clymer says! The shifter will not move at all just up and back down! Please help guys! Where am i going wrong???

Hi all, Im just getting my cases back together and put the main shaft and counter shaft back in tonight. I am using the clymers manual and its says to check shifting through all the gears. Ive tried many times as it says in the manual but I must be doing something wrong cos I just cant get it :: The will only shift up one then back down again! Its startin to piss me off! The manual says to find neutral. How can you tell if the trans is in neutral by looking at it? Any tips or something im missing while I try to do this mother f@*ker?? Thanks

Thanks for the reply mate. Just want to be putting her back together correctly. I have a clymers but just wanted to double check. Even though my clucth worked fine should I still buy a new ball bearing and adjuster?