banshee(911)
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Posts posted by banshee(911)
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To reiterate what Brandon said, make sure you inspect your cylinders before you do anything further. If you do not know how to measure them properly, ask one of us. :thumbsup:
i dont know how and or have the tool
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well i guess im gonna get another set of pistons and c if they do the same thing seeing how tha machinisttold me the piston was not the same it lost a thousand and 1/2 but in order to do that i will have to give up my super stockers and the extra 6 hp i will have to get some boost ports to make up diff.well thanx guys been verry helpful next time to rebuild i will b going to the cubs think theres much of a diff in horse power or torque?
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Blaster pistons were a thing of the past.......
They were used with a stock stroke crank and yamaha RD 400 rods which were 5mm longer.
This was the old 370 long rod motor. Your best bet is to have the cylinders mic'd and if needed, get bigger pistons and have the jugs bored to them. Go with the wiseco pistons and and have the clearence set at the recommended size. If I'm not mistaken it should be .003"
whats the max bore i can go im already @66mm
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Go with Wiseco pistons... They are the shit :thumbsup:
im @80 over wich is 66mm think i should go with blaster pistons kuz im not running them now but have heard allot about them?
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I hope you don't take offense to this, but when going to the stroker crank, it would have been a better idea to use the longer rod set up. The reason being is longer stroke and stock rod will net a lower rod to stroke ratio and increase rod angularity. This will put more load on the piston skirts front and back which is not good. You definately don't want any piston chatter in any engine.
no i dont take any affense to it but kinda new to a stroker motor actually its my first one but from now on i will b going with the long rod but spent all this money now im gonna use it
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I agree with fire guy on this one. I would get s second opinion on the clearances. We have also noted more piston slap with the the short skirt pistons that Vitos sells. The shorter skirt does several good things but at the sacrifice of piston stability and durability. You need to pay special attention to the cylinder taper and out of round specs. If everything is good, ride it. I will say that some strokers just make a little more noise.
Brandon
hmm....now im thinking getting new pistons and rehoning it anny suggestions on pistons and i do have an agressive trailport but no boost ports think i should have him put some in?????????
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oh youre right it is a brand new motor just put 1200 in it new crank and pistons and bore vitos 4 mill with stock length rods vitos super stock pistons then did the heat cycles and checked the torque it sounded great then took it out a couple short rides to break in then took it out a good ride next day started ticking so i tore it down like 6 or 8 times to figure it out bought new crank bearings and had them pressed on then put it back together same noise then i took it to the shop and thats when he told me it was chatter the motor dont even have 3 hours on it
oh and he miked my cylinders and pistons and the cylinders are right where he put them but the pistons had a thousands and 1/2 of off them
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Ok, I was under the impression that this was a newly built engine. In that case, I would run it until it blows. Even if it locks up, it's not like it will immediately seize and toss you over the bars. Engines don't really do the "stick in the bicycle spokes" thing like some people seem to think. :ermm:
oh youre right it is a brand new motor just put 1200 in it new crank and pistons and bore vitos 4 mill with stock length rods vitos super stock pistons then did the heat cycles and checked the torque it sounded great then took it out a couple short rides to break in then took it out a good ride next day started ticking so i tore it down like 6 or 8 times to figure it out bought new crank bearings and had them pressed on then put it back together same noise then i took it to the shop and thats when he told me it was chatter the motor dont even have 3 hours on it
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Piston "chatter" as it seems to be referred to here is not really a good thing, but it can go on for a long time before anything bad happens. It really depends on how far of the bore size is compared to the piston as well as what type of cylider sleeve you have and what type of piston you have.
If given the opportunity I would call bullshit on whoever machined the bore or put the engine together like that and tell them to do it over and make it right. :geek:
not the builders fault or the mechanic.im running k and n filters and where the stock box mounts to the rubbers under seat well wore a hole in filters and got sand in cylinders not alott but enough to matter it didnt have the sound till i went on a good ride and got behind some friends on polaras'es they stird up a big sand cloud ne ways im @ 80 over what should i do run it till she pukes ?
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Piston cylinder gap will vary depending on type of pistons used. Too much gap and you'll be breaking skirts.. to tight of a gap and you'll be getting cold seizing.
will the motor give me some kind of hint if theres to much chatter or be-4 it seizes up just dont wanna b doing like 80mph n have the thing lock up wouldnt b a fun ride
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Should be fine, I know a couple builders that set motors up that way.
they set them up to chatter hmm thats what he said he said his was louder than mine lol well thanx for the input
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just a quick question.Will the chatter hurt my motor and if it will how long till?
the reason i ask is because ive herd a noise after my rebuild and i finally took it to a shop and the mechanick told me it was piston chatter to run it but with the new crank just to b on the safe side wanted a second opinion or more dont get me wrong hes an awsome mechanic but dosent hurt to double check
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just a quick question.Will the chatter hurt my motor and if it will how long till?
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Any0one want a willy santos birdhouse board?? Used it like once and never got into it, has independent trucks with spitfire wheels, real cheap
how cheap n got anny pics?
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well just took it to the shop and they said it was piston slap there gonna pull the side cover of to c if theres annything wrong in there so now im with ut a wheeler for a couple days but it will b fixed right
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Ok sand got in through the K&N and hosed the bearings, first failure explained.
Now for the second one; crank builder is reputable so hopefully you can rule that out. Can you pinpoint the noise with the screwdriver trick? It's not the kickstarter itself is it (I know stupid question, but it is a possibility)? You did clean the wrist pin bearings after the sand happened right?
Vibration still points to crank or pistons, but rattle could be anything from a bearing to clutch chatter...
INSTALLED NEW WRIST PINS CAUSE WHEN I GOT THE CRANK I GOT A SET AND WHEN I GOT THE PISTONS GOT A SET ALSO AND AS FOR THE KICKSTARTER NOT SURE IF THATS ITIM GONNA GO N C WITH THE SCREWDRIVER
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WEN I WENT ON MY RIDE AFTER THE BREAK IN I MET UP WITH SOME FRIENDS AND THEY WAS AHEAD OF ME THERE WAS THIS HUGE SAND CLOUD AFTER THEY PULLED OUT I WENT THROUGH IT AFTER ALL THE RIDE I GOT HOMETHERE WAS A NOISE I RODE IE ON SHORT RIDES BE-4 THIS HAPPEND AND NO NOISE BUT THERE WAS A HOLE IN MY K ADN N,S FROM THI STOCK BOW MOUNT THAT WASNT I DIDNT C .CRANK AND PISTONS RINGS GOT A NEW KICKER GEAR AND THE TRANNY LOOKED AND SHIFTED GOOD YAMABAND AND YES TORQUED EVERY THING YES ITS VERRY SHINNY ON INTAKE AND EXAUST VERRY CONFIDENT IN THE MACHINIST HE DOES ALL THE WORK FOR THE SPORT STORES AROUND HERESomething's funky with your assembly dude, both the flywheel and crank nut spun? Don't get me wrong I'm not saying you're a moron, shit happens, but "bad" cases just doesn't happen magically. If I understand right you got a new 4mil crank and put it together, it made noise breaking in and when you ran it, it spit off the flywheel and crank nuts; you opened it up and found sand in the cases (how did it get in? air filter? intakes? carbs? case sealant?), rebuilt the crank and had it trued & welded, put it back together and now it rattles, right??1. What's different now compared to before (the last time it ran and didn't rattle)? Crank and ???
2. What all did you take out and/or inspect when the cases were split? Tranny? Kicker gear?
3. What did you use, and how confident are you in the application, to seal the cases?
4. Did you use a torque wrench on the jugs, the head, the cases, etc.? On EVERY bolt & nut?
5. Any wierd wear on the cylinders when you took it off the second time?
6. You sure you got the crank bearing pins set right in the cases?
7. You gonna invest in a flywheel holder to torque that nut this time?
8. How confident are you in the guys that trued the crank?
If it was mine I'd try to find out first where that sand came from, then try to pinpoint the noise you're hearing; is it a bearing or bushing or demonic gremlin or gear??? If you're running it and can hear it at idle, put your ear to the handle of a big screwdriver and put the other end on different places on the motor to find out where it's loudest. I seriously doubt your cases are shot, just something outta whack, and if you can swap a crank you can find the problem, even if it didn't go so well the first time...
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the crank is 3 weeks old its a vitos 4 mill with stock length rods and when it started making noise i took it to the machine shop and had hotrod bearings put on it and trued and welded but tha machinist told me the crank,s center has a keyway in it the cranks still in the motor on the bike i just put 1500$ in the bike 3 weeks ago then after the break in period i went for a short ride and the next day it started making noise
when it started making noise i tore it down and found sand in the crank cleand it out with brake cleaner put it back together and the noise got louder so i replaced the bearings and now it still does it with new bearings thats why i think my cases are wore outoh ya and when i took it apart i could c where the center bearings the spacer between themhad lil marks on it like side to side
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Sounds like the crank may be out of phase, or something not timed right. May have to put a degree wheel on it, and measure both cylinders.
the crank is 3 weeks old its a vitos 4 mill with stock length rods and when it started making noise i took it to the machine shop and had hotrod bearings put on it and trued and welded but tha machinist told me the crank,s center has a keyway in it the cranks still in the motor on the bike i just put 1500$ in the bike 3 weeks ago then after the break in period i went for a short ride and the next day it started making noise
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what bearings are going bad? I must have missed your last post.
all bearings are bad but the worse one is on the flywheel side omg you wouldnt beleive the luck ive been having when i put my new bearings on and put it all back together still the same noise rebuilt the clutch not that got it all together and bam the nut of the crank went through my side cover and the flywheel came loose so i had to get another
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ok so ive posted a bunch of times the noise in my motor but still havent got it fixed can some one help i know what its not the only thing im thinking it is is the cases worn out but not even sure if thats it this is my second set of bearings in 3 weeks and theres a lot of vibration from motor and theres a noise i can feel the kickstarter vibrate when reving the engine sounds like a rattle
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i got some mint cases in here
STILL NEED CASES
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AM LOOKING TO GET A SET OF BANSHEE CASES NO BEARING WEAR
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wanting to trade a set of cases for a billet mag cover or drag pipes or aftermarket rims (itp's or douglas) i got a set of stock carbs i can throw in to!
I GOT A SET OF DOUGLAS BLUE LABEL BACKS OR I GOT A SET OF RED LABEL FRONTSLET ME KNOW AND YOU GOT ANNY PICS OF THE CASES AND I WILL POST SOME PICS OF THE RIMS LET ME KNOW
piston chatter
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what are calipers for brakes?i got some feeler gauges but i usually take them to a machine shop